GS24B7C3EV Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

had to cut approximately 1/2 inch off. It was a bit to thick used the pliers to squeeze it to a thickness it would fit in the slots

Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY

ordered a new shut-off valve. arrived in 5 days. installation had to wait a couple more day for i had to order a new compression nut. the reason i had to order a new nut was because the original nut was made of teflon and stripped easily when i tightened it to make a leak proof.joint. the new nut arrived in two days and was installed readily being that it was made of brass and consequently did not strip when i tightened to make a drip proof joint. finished in approximately twenty minutes' the video that this site has on the internet was of great value.

I tilted the unit back enough to scew the new legs into the threaded holes.

Removed 6 screws to get at broken part. Had to remember the disassembly sequence to properly reassemble. The whole process was relatively simple. I saved about $125 which would have been the cost of a repairman coming to the house.

Easy to replace refrigerator bar retaining clip. Just pop it off with flat tip screwdriver, put the new clip in the bar, slide bar in place till the studs on the clip line up with the holes in the door and pop the clip in place.

Removed old ejector arm and installed new part.

The firt hard thing was waiting for the part to arrive, but that went quick. The second hardest part was opening the box. Shucks I got a paper cut, should have used a razor but while wife wont let me have sharp objects. Oh, yeah I had to find the hachsaw. I fooled everyone I knew where that was too. Be sure to measure properly, because if you cut too short then you have to stretch the bar. I havn't found any type of bar stretcher that works. It's best if you clamp the metal bar to a 2 X 4 piece of wood in order to steady the metal bar while you cut. You can't cut to well trying to hold the metal bar in your hand. The best part was completeing the job by installing the bars. Finally I have more room in my freezer to store food in the doors. This is my story and I am sticking to it. Have fun.

Tuned up the ends of the bracket with a needle-nosed pliers then installed new retainer clips into bracket. I then laid on floor and lined up two holes in door and bracket (one end at a time) and pushed retainer clips into door's existing holes. Door was open for less than 30 seconds. Bracket is now solid and holding. Note: Do not jam products in bottom or any shelf thus putting pressure on bracket. Find a new home for the product!!

I switched the ring and still had the same problem. What caused the Drive ring to crack was the Ice maker drive was cracked also, when it filled with water it would tip. The ice was not freezing completely and would cause the ice to build up and the auger was froze with ice or a big piece of ice would jam it. So I replaced the Ice Tray, it is working like new. I have to buy another ice tray as inventory, although I know inventory is bad but I never agreed with that theory.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

1. Inserted the plastic bracket into the channels on the side of the front metal piece with the hole plugs facing outward.
2. Lined up the plastic piece with the plugs with the holes on the shelf door.
3. Slid the plastic piece (in its channel) towards the door and into the holes.

Removed all screws on back and 4 on front. That part is easy IF you have a Torx of the right size. Slip out the ice bin a bit and replace the drive ring. Reassembly is a bit harder since some internal shift can occur -- rotate or tilt the whole assembly to get two -- I think -- screws started. No need to over tighten screws; snug is good enough.