GS2325GEKB Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

remove top plastic cover / phillips screw driver
remove top door bracket / 5/15" socket
lift off door
remove pieces of old cam / phillips screw driver
replace cam/ phillips screw driver
replace door
replace top bracket / 5/16" socket
check alignment

Remove the light cover. Use a flat head screw driver to push in the tabs on the back of the program mount and pull down to expose the computer board. The Thermistor is clipped on under the vent holes on the right side. Cut both wires to remove the old thermistor strip a 1/4 inch off the remaning wires and the new thermistor wires twist both ends together crimp on the wire caps snap in the new thermistor reinstall the program board until the retainer clips snap into place, slide the light cover back on.

This is a side-by-side refrigerator. The crushed ice wheel is part of the icemaker bin auger, and it began to fragment, popping pieces of plastic into the ice dispenser and on into our drinks. The manuf. manual had nothing about parts in it, so GREAT thanks to Partselect for their website!!! Now, to dismantle the bin and auger is simple on this design: remove the bin from the freezer and allow it to defrost and dry; there are two small phillips-head screws on the front underside of the bin, holding the front panel in place - remove these screws and pop the front cover off; you'll then see two small phillips-head screws holding the auger-cap in place - remove these and pull the auger cap out, along with the auger; using a small pliers, remove the nut from the auger at the auger-cap, then slide the auger-cap off; at this point you just start removing washers, blades, etc, from the auger - MAKING SURE YOU KEEP THEM IN ORDER - until you reach the crushed ice wheel; separate the wheel from its metal brace, slide the wheel off and replace it; gradually replace all the other parts in order, cleaning them as you go, and simply put everything back together. It helps to keep the exploded parts diagram at hand - available on the Partselect website. It was a snap. The ordering process was simply and the part was delivered to my door on the second day after ordering.

First, I removed the ice bucket and crusher assembly and emptied the ice into a tupperware container.

Next, I removed the face plate by carefully pressing the bottom of the ice bucket and releasing the tabs on the face plate.

Using a 1/4" nutdriver, I removed the two screws near the bottom of the ice crusher and auger assembly which holds it to the ice bucket.

As long as the auger was off, I decided to replace the end cap to see if that would solve the jamming problem. It takes a little finesse to figure out how to twist the cap so it can be removed, but it is fairly easy once you see how it works.

Reassembly is the reverse procedure. When putting the face plate back on, be sure the lip at the top (just below the clear window) laps over the top of the bucket.

I removed the plastic cover from the top hinge and loosened the screws. The magnet seal kept the door in place so I removed the top hinge and tried to lift the door off the bottom hinge but the water line wouldn't let it go. Since I don't use the water feature, I just cut the water line and lifted the door off. That's when I discovered the hinge pin was actually broken off, not just the cam. I went ahead and replaced the cam kit and put it temporarily back together, got right back on line and ordered the bottom hinge. The service was again very fast and in a couple of days I received the bottom hinge, repeated the whole process again and this time replaced the bottom hinge assembly, put some petrolium jelly on the cam kit and now it works smooth and perfect.

Thanks to parts.com showing the schematic the repair was very easy. Note if the buttons fro dispensing water/ice break you need to order two parts. 1. dispenser Facade and 2. Dispenser facade Insert. To replace do the following. remove the catch tray at the bottom of facade. remove the two screws on the bottom and gently pull bottom of insert out and down. Next unsnap the two wires on the selonoid switch. Next pull down on the harness connector from the printed ckt. Next remove small phillips screw that secures the ckt to the insert and gently pry the six plastic clips that hold the ckt to the insert and remove. Next, install the ckt into the new insert and reconnect the selonoid switch. Next, install the insert back on the door. Next, install the Dispensor Facade sticker over the switch buttons taking care that it is aligned properly. Thats it ready to use.

Took longer to move food from door to inside fridge & take grandkids' artwork off door, & then put it all back than it did to replace cam.
1. Used phillips head to undo 1 screw holding cover over top bracket; lifted off cover.
2. No need to have someone hold door while you remove top bracket; magnets in door gasket will hold it tight to fridge. Used socket to remove 3 screws in top bracket & lifted bracket up off top of door.
3. Door's not heavy. I stood on a sturdy chair to get better leverage. Opened the door enough to break the magnetic seal & llfted it up off bottom bracket. I moved it over just enough to get to the cam, rested the bottom of the door on the floor, & leaned it up against the open front of the fridge to help preserve chilled food.
4. Removed the 1 screw holding in the bad cam to the bottom bracket (uses smaller socket than screws on top bracket).
5. I checked part that goes up inside bottom of door & it was fine, so did not replace it.
6. Trickiest part: putting the door back on. I put a hand mirror on floor by the right corner & facing up so I could see the underpart of the door as I lifted it eased it down on the right place.
7. Closed door, made sure it was straight, replaced top hinge & cover, food, & artwork.

It was great. We replaced the thermistor A little difficult to get to the thermistor but once we found it five minutes. My refrigerator seems happy but we will monitor it and see.

Cut wires and removed old thermosat. Spliced new thermostat wires into exsiting wire. Put it all back together. Works great now. Thanks for all the help. Your site is great. Only problem we had was getting the part from FED EX. Took over 2 weeks had to go pick up the part ourselfs.

I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!

remove the bin from the freezer, there are 2 tabs on the lower front cover that pop off and you just pull the entire front cover off. there are 4 nuts that hold the blade cover which you can use the 7in1 with the insert removed.. i believe it's 5/16". remove the cover and the tumbler assembly pops out of the tray.
remove the nut with a set of pliers and lay it out on the table in order.
install is reverse of removal. make sure you get all the washers in the correct location when assembling. don't tighten the nut too tight or it will bind the rotating assembly.

enjoy retrieving ice from the door again!

I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.

Thanks,
Matt

Empty freezer to find defrost thermostat, turned off refrigerator, waited for ice to melt. Unpluged unit. Clipped lead wires to thermostat. Trimmed excsess wire on new defrost thermostat, installed butt connector(with heat shrink) to thermostat and then to leads in refrigerator. Heated connector until heat shrink, shrunk down around wires. Let it run for a few days to see if everything was working...and then button it back up.

Removed door. Removed old cam closure assembly. Noticed that there was almost nothing inside the door for screw to screw into(only styrofoam insulation), which is why original screw backed out. Bad design. Got longer screw at bigger diameter. Pushed high strength glue into hole, on screw threads, and underneath screw head. Assembled. Crossed fingers. About three weeks have passed and so far, so good.

Pop loose the plastic grate at the bottom.

Locate and remove the wheel leveling screw from the front bottom corner.

Remove cotter pin from the pin that mounts the wheel assembly to the refrigerator. Tap out the mounting pin.

Lift out the wheel assembly.

Remove the Roller pin from the wheel assembly. I used a Dremel tool with a cutting disk. A hack saw will also probably work.

Install the new roller pin and wheel into the wheel assembly. Use a hammer or vice to peen over the end of the roller pin.

Reinstall and adjust wheel assembly.