Models > GRCR3910ZWW-1

GRCR3910ZWW-1 General Electric Range - Overview

Sections of the GRCR3910ZWW-1

[Viewing 5 of 5]
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Oven Handle End Cap - Left or Right Side – Part Number: WB07X10034
Oven Handle End Cap - Left or Right Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(15)
PartSelect #: PS229187
Manufacturer #: WB07X10034
This oven handle end cap connects to your oven door handle, and acts as the joint that connects it to the oven door. This part is made of black plastic and can be used as the left or right-side end ca...
$41.90
  In Stock
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch – Part Number: WB30T10099
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(13)
PartSelect #: PS1016539
Manufacturer #: WB30T10099
This is a large dual haliant element with a limiter or sensor for glass cooktops and freestanding ranges. It is a 2500-watt part. The inner diameter measures 9 inches, while the outer diameter measure...
$158.10
  In Stock
Light Cover – Part Number: WB36X192
Light Cover
★★★★★
★★★★★
(8)
PartSelect #: PS247415
Manufacturer #: WB36X192
This light bulb lens covers the interior light bulb in an oven, range, or stove. No tools are necessary to replace this part. Simply slide off the wire bracket to remove the existing light bulb lens. ...
$13.53
  In Stock
Large Haliant Burner with Limiter - 8" – Part Number: WB30T10045
Large Haliant Burner with Limiter - 8"
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS243903
Manufacturer #: WB30T10045
This haliant burner element is a gneuine OEM replacement part for your stove. This element is 8 inches in diameter. The element lies underneath the stovetop, and will need to be replaced if it stops h...
$148.32
  In Stock
Bottom Trim - White – Part Number: WB07K10250
Bottom Trim - White
★★★★★
★★★★★
(14)
PartSelect #: PS2321159
Manufacturer #: WB07K10250
Screws not included.
$25.43
  In Stock
Door Handle – Part Number: WB15X10018
Door Handle
PartSelect #: PS232098
Manufacturer #: WB15X10018
This is just the handle. The end caps for this handle must be ordered separately if needed.
$35.34
  In Stock
Haliant Burner with Limiter - 6" - 1500W – Part Number: WB30T10047
Haliant Burner with Limiter - 6" - 1500W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
PartSelect #: PS243905
Manufacturer #: WB30T10047
$158.66
  In Stock
Screws - Package of 12 – Part Number: WB1X500D
Screws - Package of 12
PartSelect #: PS234746
Manufacturer #: WB1X500D
These are replacement screws designed to fit your range. They are made of metal and are approximately ¼ inch long. They come in a package of 12. These are OEM parts sourced directly from the manufacturer.
$9.12
  Special Order
Washer - 12 Pack – Part Number: WB1X119D
Washer - 12 Pack
PartSelect #: PS234480
Manufacturer #: WB1X119D
$12.84
  In Stock
Fluorescent Lamp/Bulb – Part Number: F26T8-CW-4
Fluorescent Lamp/Bulb
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS220380
Manufacturer #: F26T8-CW-4
  No Longer Available
Inner Door Glass – Part Number: WB36X5712
Inner Door Glass
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS247548
Manufacturer #: WB36X5712
This inner door glass is sold individually.
  No Longer Available
Leveling Leg – Part Number: WB2X8248
Leveling Leg
PartSelect #: PS242986
Manufacturer #: WB2X8248
  No Longer Available

Questions And Answers for GRCR3910ZWW-1

We're sorry, but our Q&A experts are temporarily unavailable.
Please check back later if you still haven't found the answer you need.

Common Symptoms of the GRCR3910ZWW-1

[Viewing 1 of 1]
Element will not heat
Fixed by
these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
Show All
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Large burner on dual element burned out
This was really easy, and pretty with no problems or issues It took me longer to write this than to do the actual installation. I used a digital camera to help me remember where things were, but a pen/paper works fine. Here's what I did:

1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.

2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.

2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.

3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.

4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.

5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.

6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.

7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.

8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.

9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.

10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.

11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.

12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).

13. Turn on the breaker and test again.

Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
Parts Used:
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
  • Scot from Oakland, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
100 of 113 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Large burner would not get hot
Repair was very simple. Removed 2 screws under the cooktop, tilt the cooktop back, unplug 4 wires from 8" burner, remove two screws holding retaining clips, install new burner in reverse order. Very simple!
Parts Used:
Large Haliant Burner with Limiter - 8"
  • Kevin from Leominster, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
70 of 92 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Coil Burned Out
Open lid,un screw coil,pop in new coil snap holders in place,then cook a steak
Parts Used:
Haliant Burner with Limiter - 6" - 1500W
  • Frank from St Augustine, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
60 of 91 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!