GR9SHKXKB02 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

PartsSelect diagrams at their website made it easy to find and order the right part at a reasonable price. I removed the lower glass shelf and frame that supports it. I removed broken track and slipped in the new track and snapped it in place with the orifice at the rear of the track over small peg in the back of the frame. If I had called a regular refrigerator repair man, i'll bet this job would have cost me at least 70 or 80 dollars,

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

I ordered a new one waited for the new ones to come in once it did I took out the old ones and replaced them with the new ones. It was simple.

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

I attached the hinge and secured it with screws and socket wrench.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

Removed door and replaced bushing bracket was ok.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

I just snapped it into place. Easy Peasy!!!!

Like you video

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.