GLMB186KB - Instructions

i unplugged the unit,unscrewed the outer shell so that all the wiring and internal components were visible.starting at the first of three micro switches i removed the slip on terminals installed the alligator clips too the wires so the switch would now be bypassed.i made sure the wires and clips were not touching anything plugged unit in and it worked.i then installed the new switch and closed up the outer shell

With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!

Replaced the 16" tray with a 14" tray. Works great now. Took about 20 seconds to take out the old tray and put in the new.

First I had to accept the fact that the unit was designed to keep non-professional people from doing any repairs. The switch was installed in such a manner that I had to break the mounting to remove the switch, then drill a hole in the mounting to secure the new switch in place.

Problem was due to a faulty door switch. Replaced with a new switch and the microwave now works fine! Only thing that was tricky was that LG uses the hex screws with a peg in the middle to keep the microwave cover on. Had to use a small screwdriver and pliers (on the screwdriver) to unscrew the screws.

Replace the fuses

Initial failure of over range microwave Aug 3rd. Control Panel worked but no heat. Took to local LG authoriaed local repair place. They fixed it quickly and we re-installed it. Worked fine for 2 months then had similar failure again. Agaim took to same authorized repairer. They kept unit for 3 months but finally concluded theu could not fix it and suggested we contact LG for a partial refund. When they tested the unit during re-assembly in my presence, there was a blue flash and the fuse blew. Since we had built a custom tile mural back splash around this unit, I brought it home, ordered a number of time delay fuses new capacitor and two new high voltage diodes. However, using my Fluke DMM, I checked the existing capacitor and high voltage diode and they checked OK so I just replaced the time delay fuse. The high voltage transformer leads had 2 possible ways to connect to capacitor and diode. Tried one way, plugged unit in and turned it on, and immediatly blew the fuse. Replaced the fuse and reversed the high voltage transformer connections,amd turned unit pn, and it worked perfectly. Since we had experienced several power failures during the time of the original failure, the repairer concluded that power spikes might be at fault, so I also purchased a TrippLite ISOBAR4ULTRA 3300 Joule surge protector between wall outlet and microwave, and re-installed over range. It has worked perfectly since.

Replaced the fuse. Result; did not fix the problem.

I pulled out the unit and found 2 interlock switches that are depressed when the door closes. After cycling the door open/closed I found that one of the switches occasionally would stay depressed. The repair was easy (after I took off the panels so I could get to the switch) I simply removed 2 screws that attached the interlock switch assemblies to the main unit. Then I popped out the defective switch and popped in the new one. This did indeed fix my problem.

Follow the instructions I got from the website and replacing the motor was very easy to do. Thank you.

Unit was painted inside recently, but apparently some paint fumes still lingered so that when the unit was turn on, there was a very small explosion that took out the flam sensor thermostat. This thermostat interrupts the white leg of the AC input and cuts off all power.Performing a continuity test on the flame sensor showed it was permanently open (no continuity). Turns out I had a similar part from an old coffee maker and when I installed this part, the microwave turned on just fine. So I order the correct sensor from Parts Select. Part installation involved removing the TT20 Security Star bits (4) and the right/left side phillips screws. Now the top/side unit cover comes off by pulling the cover backwards and up and out. The flame sensor is in the middle of the front section underneath the top cover, and comes out easily with pull-off connectors. There are also bendable pins that hold the sensor down flush to the top of the unit.

I removed the new tray from the box and slid it into the microwave. That's it.

bought a fuse but that didn't solve the problem. Guess I need a new microwave

I ordered a new one by calling the 800 number, gave them my model number and ordered a new one on the phone and paid with my credit card. It was shipped the same day and I received it on the second day by Fed-X.

I went on line, put in microwave repair and watched a video on repair. I then took the oven down from over the range and took it apart. I could see were the magnetron had burned out. There was a hole with obvious burn marks. I went on line looking for the needed part. I clicked on PartSelect and order the magnetron. I received the part within three days, regular shipping. As I had not put the oven back together it took only a few moments to save 150 to 200+ dollars. I put it back together and happy, happy me, it worked.