GLHT217HB3 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed panel over the motor in the freezer department. Removed screws holding the motor in, unplug wires. Reversed process to install motor.

Installation was fairly straight forward. The major complaint is that the problem returned 2 weeks later. I don’t know if I care to re-invest in another switch.
Now what?

I used the youtube you provided. It was pretty straight forward, but I had to make a trip to the hardware store for a bit (hex wrench) to remove the hex bolt head style screws. I was only expecting to need phillips or flathead. I managed to remove one with a set of pliers, and the brought that example to the store for size reference when buying the bit to fit my black and decker drill. The rest was easy.

Very easy process. Watch the YouTube video, it goes step by step for the repair. The part was $33, shipping was $6. Take your time and fix it yourself or pay $500 for a new refrigerator.

The center door hinge was still attached to the refridgerator so I only had to install the bottom and top hinges. I also moved the door handles to the other side so the doors open the "right" way. The hinges were just 2 bolts and 3 screws. Now, just if the repair man from our home warrentee company would show up to fix the refridgerator. It's blowing hot air!!!

REPLACED TIMER-DEFROST 215846602..REPLACED THERMOSTAT-DEFROST KIT 5303918202..REPLACED CONTROL, TEMPERATURE 5304421256..RECHARGED SYSTEM WITH 134A...ALL FANS WORKING...COMPRESSOR RUNS.. FREEZER STILL NOT GETTING COLD ENOUGH...HOLDING AT 20 DEGREES...ANY SUGGESTIONS..THANKS..DAN

The bulb wasn't the issue so I was hopeful the switch was. utube helped me some, but figuring my model was different than any on utube. Got the switch in and plugged it back in. Moment of truth. Didn't light. Ugggh! Out $50 for switch plus $20 for nut driver set.

Just snapped it on.

Took off worn out rails and replaced with new ones using a Phillips screwdriver.

Pulled Out Broken Draw then put new one in.

I tested the components in the refrigerator defrost function. I used digital multimeter and checked for continuity. Defrost thermostat must 32 degrees or lower.

After removing meat tray the entire shelf including rails needs to come out. Once out a single set screw in the middle of rail needs to be removed. You can then slide the old rail across and then pull it out. Then insert new rail, slide across to lock in place. reinsert set screw. Don't over tighten. Be careful when replacing shelf as left side has air opening for drawer that must to match up.

unplug power from ref removed old light socket only difference wired a little different checked new socket compaired to old checked terminal ends small big looked at wires big,little plugged up put in new light blub plugged ref power back on work power off pushed socket bac in power on works

Removed the meat drawer and shelf from refrigerator. Removed 1 screw from right side rail. Slid rail forward and removed from slot. Inserted new rail into slot, and aligned with screw hole. Installed screw. Repeated process on left side rail. Reinstalled shelf into slots and slid meat drawer into place.

I used a flat head screwdriver to pry open the front of the socket as I pushed the socket toward the freezer side. I unplugged the two wires connected to the socket then re-connected the two wires to the new socket and popped the new socket back in. I then put a new light bulb in and we had light again in the fridge.