GLHA7900W2 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Order the part and put the new part on and put the washing machine cabinet back on and check the washer for the water filled up and then it's starting to go on the spin cycles.

slipped new rear leveling legs into leveling fixture. Fit even though it wasn't specified to be the right part for this old washer.

Raise the top off of the dryer with a flat blade screwdriver in each front corner of the dryer. Disconnect power to the dryer. Remove old switch and install new switch. Test door and proper operation of dryer.

Order replacement lid switch, installed it, good to go. The installation video and instructions with the replacement part were very helpful.

Your web site is amazing Ive enjoyed watching your videos,this is a really great way to see what it takes to repair your washer very informative. Steve was a good teacher for me I just followed along as he explained each step and my washer came apart just like he said. I removed the two front console screws and pulled slightly forward and lifted console up and tilted it back where it was out of the way. next I was able to lift cabinet up from the back and remove it from the frame and lay cabinet on the floor on top of a rug I had to protect the finish on cabinet . Now I had access to the lid switch and simply removed the two screws in the cabinet and the old switch. I connected the two wire connections to the new switch (no)normally open connection, used same actuator the instructions say to do this because the one that comes with the new switch won't fit so use the old one. on my washer there's a cover that fits under this switch and It took me a little longer to get the screws to line up so they fit through the switch and into the cover but It worked fine. Now all I had to do was reinstall the cabinet just like Steve did on the video my only problem with this was seeing where the tabs in the frame were located so that the slots in the cabinet would fit over top of frame tabs I used a flash light in one hand and lowered the cabinet down I held the light on the frame tabs and the slots in cabinet fit right in then lowered cabinet to the rear frame tabs where i just had to push slightly on the sides of cabinet and it fit right in.Next i pushed the back panel in place and on the top of washer just like in video reinstalled both spring clip clamps and the console and reinstalled the two screws. I plugged in the washer put drain hose back in drain pushed washer back in place turned it on working great now ! Thank You so much for your help Dan.

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

took part top of washer saw switch replaced it not to difficult it is always easier when you have new one to look at

pulled leads off old wigwag solenoid, removed set screw and sprayed shaft w/wd40 then tapped it off shaft w/small hammer and large screwdriver. put new wigwag solenoid onto shaft then tapped it down into place and tapped it to rotate to expose set screw hole. reattached set screw, reattached leads to solenoid, checked looseness/freeness of cam arms and it worked

>removed 2 screws connecting the vent filter to the top lid of the unit (just in front of removable filter).
>Losing two screws at the back of the machine, just below control panel to allow free movement of the top lid on its hinges.
>Raise top lid & supported open.
>Now have free access to door switch (inside , front right fastened to front panel)
>removed the old switch
>fasten new switch (required new wire connector which was supplied with package) to existing wiring and replaced.
>Works perfectly!

1)Shut off power supply to dryer. 2)Removed lint filter. 3)Removed two screws that secure filter duct to dryer top. 4)Lifted front of top to gain access to door switch. 5)Removed two switch mounting screws. 6)Removed the two power leads. 7)Reconnected power leads to new switch using "Normally Closed" terminal on switch. 8)Reversed the previous procedures to complete repair.

Both the latch on the door and the strike plate were replaced. A technician from Parts-Select came and leveling and removal of possible obstructions were done. It looked like it might stay closed but popped open with temperature additions during the wash cycle. The door seals had been replaced and probably were putting some additional pressure on the door. I inserted the "magic bullet" --- (a screw) in above the strike plate and that solved the problem---door stays shut. As a side note, the screw originally used was inserted in an electrical wire plastic connector and inserted but it appears that shutting the door too hard caused it to pop into the cavity behind the latch (not into the washer itself). So I used a plastic sheet rock anchor with large spiral threads which was a larger diameter than the strike-plate slot and therefore when the door was shut hard there was no way that it could be dislodged. It was a smaller size anchor in order to not put excessive pressure on the stike-plate. Since the plastic anchor had a phillips head slot I did not have to use a metal screw to get the anchor in.

1) Using a Phillips head screwdriver, the two screws retaining the hinge pin to the lid were removed. 2) Remove hinge pin and tilt lid slightly to gain access to bushing hole. 3)Install new bushing in hole. 4)Reposition lid. Insert hinge pin through lid and into bushing. 5)Reinstall hinge pin retaining screws and tighten.

Oredered late Friday afternoon. Got part Monday afternoon.thanks

After watching some on-line vids, I determined it was the center post, or tub, gasket at the bottom. A cheap part, and easy to snap-out the old and snap-in the new - But - I had to dissassemble the washer into individual washer component molecules. Luckily, I'd done this recently to replace the clutch drive, then the motor, then this. Not too bad, really. Washer body off (2 screws and two snap-links); agitator out (7/16" socket on extension); bang off tub nut (heavy hammer and punch); bang off drive block (hammer again); and pull tub up an out. Tub drain disconnected (pliers); pull off level sensing tube; three spring mounts (nutdriver); then just yank tub up. Poke out Centerpost gasket; snap in a new one; reassemble. Piece of cake.