GFE28GSKSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

1. Turned power off.
2. Removed 2 screws holding plastid plate which connected electrical wire from mullion to door (requires Torq-tip screwdriver).
3. Unplugged wire plug behind the plate.
4. Lifted up old mullion from 2 slots holding it in place to remove it from door.
5. Inserted new mullion into slots on door.
6. Connected electrical wire to plug inside door.
7. Screwed 2 screws to reattached plastic plate to door.
8. Turned power back on.

followed install on line

Our fridge sits within our cabinets with one over top of it. That plus the leveler feet to secure it in place made this easy task a little more difficult. I was able to remove the top panel to access the switches. I was concerned, as I had not unplugged it because of the feet and went for it regardless, figuring if there was a shock, it would be minimal.

I was able to switch out the switches no problem. The only problem is it did not resolve the issue with my lights.

I asked two strong male neighbors to do the work and told them how to do it. Follow the simple directions on the box. You can Google it, but it will tell you the same directions.

You have to remove the shelves and drawer's along with the drawer mount. there is a wiring harness you need to unclip to remove the crisper electrical panel

There are six nuts to remove the lower panel at the back of the compartment where the lower drawer normally is. no need to completely remove the panel, you only need to get wiggle room to remove the fan at the base of the center panel.

There is a small triangular cover used to conceal the fan wiring harness on the right side of the center panel that you can use the putty knife to slip in on the center panel side to unclip and remove

Use the putty knife and slide it down both sides of the center panel that runs vertically to unclip it - at the base of this panel is where you'll find the condenser fan, you should be able to wiggle it out - there is a built in clip on the lower right side of the center panel that you can slip the wiring harness out of - for me this was the hardest part of the replacement as it was just awkward.

After it's removed slip in the new fan and seal and reassemble. I think the whole operation took maybe a half hour - 40 minutes. It's pretty easy all said and done.

Used ratchet set, and unscrewed old one and screwed in new. Disconnected the wires and plugged in new one.

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

Remove the screws from the two door pivot covers. Remove the covers and set aside. Remove the screws from the control board; disconnect the electrical connections; remove the door light switch, install door light switch then reinstall everything.

I followed u-tube instructions.
Took off the old switch and put the new one on.

The replacement part comes as an egg-shaped assembly with a receptacle for the socket. I cut the power to the fridge, although that was probably not necessary. The old assembly could be pried out with a fingernail, and the socket can be removed by pressing a small tab. The socket then slides right into the new assembly, which can then be pressed into place before turning the power back on. All refrigerator lights are then at full strength.

1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.

Turn off the electrical breaker for the refrigerator. On my unit the ice-maker was inside the left door. On the inside of that door is a plastic door where the ice bin is located. Open both doors and remove the ice bin. Behind the ice bin is the ice-maker. Beneath the ice-maker is a screw holding a plastic cover. Remove the screw and unhook the electrical connections. Next remove the screw for the ice-maker. Remove the ice-maker. Replacement is the exact opposite of removal. Couldn't be easier. Always be careful when putting the screws back. They were two different lengths and head sizes. Turn backward at first to line up the threads. If you strip out the plastic, game over. Good luck

I ordered the correct part, the box said it was the correct part and when I opened the box a completely different part was inside. Not only was it the wrong part but it was loosely wrapped with very thin plastic and the hinge was broken off of the lid and laying in the box. I have called and emailed for help and was told no one was available to help because of COVID 19. One email was answered to return the part I would have to pay shipping and the part could not be damaged. Okay, the part was wrong, the part was broken. Now what should I do? Please respond.