GDF540HSF0SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

My heating coil was not working so naturally I thought I needed a new coil and ordered one accordingly. During the time it took to ship to me, I did more research and people suggested testing the coil with and ohmmeter for resistance as often times the coil is fine and it is the flood switch that is the problem. I got an ohmmeter and checked the old coil and it returned readings that were just fine (btw 15-30), so I returned the coil and ordered this flood switch.

Anyone reading this debating between buying the coil and switch can save themselves a lot of trouble/time/money by removing the coil and testing it first.

The installation of the flood switch is fairly simple. There's a great video on Youtube for it (titled "GE Dishwasher not Drying Dishes - How to Replace Bad Flood Switch:), so I won't walk through the step-by-step on it.

However, one word of advice is to be careful when installing so that you don't let the o-ring on the switch slide down the connector/wire once you connect them or you'll get a slow leak into the catch pan at the bottom.

Also, if this if your first repair on a GE Dishwasher then get to know the unit while you have it pulled out. It won't be your last repair based on my experience...

The replacement dishwasher basket easily fit in my dishwasher. Easy to order. Quick delivery. Highly recommended.

Installed new heater by pulling unit out of it’s cubby hole. Was able to gain access to the nuts that hold it down and make the seal, as well as the electrical connections. Re-installed. Helpful if you remove both dish baskets and utencil basket for access when installing heater.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

So easy, even I was able to do it. Slide tabs back on defective basket and remove both sides, then slide the tabs onto new basket and place in dishwasher. All Done!

the part is OEM and fits like a glove. No worries. There is a minor variation in design and is not like for like design but fits exactly per specs and works. I have been looking for this part for years now. Thank you for PS for maintaining the inventory.
PS12743260Manufacturer Part Number WD28X26099

I simply followed the video instructions and replaced the rack myself, no tools required. Easy peasy

Just snapped it in place and that’s it!

This was so easy! Our 4 year-old dishwasher began making a repetitive, clunking noise during wash cycle, and I deducted that it was the spray arms. I tried to rinse out old
spray arms, checked for clogs, and made sure they were installed correctly. The sound persisted, so I ordered replacement part (wash arm kit). I removed old spray arms and attached new ones. Problem solved and dishwasher is quiet again!

The part is held in with two plastic clips, which are easy to unclip. The part needed to be slightly flexed to release it and the new part went in the same way the old one came off. One issue: The replacement part had one extra row of tines that encroached on the silverware basket. As it turned out, one tine fit between basket sections and the other fit through the hole in the bottom of the basket and it doesn't interfere with utensils so it turned out not to be a problem.

Took out 2 screws that held machine in cabinet. Pulled out dishwasher about 4 inches. removed old latch and disconnected electric connection. Put in new latch, reconnected electric connection, replaced screws, pushed machine back in cabinet, replaced 2 screws that hold machine in place. Works like new!

After replacing UI board, I replaced the mainboard. still did not solve the problem. The element tested good and I had removed the flood switch, rinsed and blew it out so it rattled but the damage was done. Replacing it made the dishwasher heat water and heated during dry cycle. Removed fine filter, removed course filter, removed two screws with nut driver, removed flood sensor and then reversed. A year or so ago, the dishwasher flooded for no apparent reason, wondering if that was the beginning end of the switch!

First, drain as much water as possible using a shop vac or siphon. Unscrew two plastic lugs and food screen to release the metal *disk* found inside the dishwasher at the bottom. Then, remove the grey retainer ring found under the food screen.
Using the nut driver, remove two screws from the white plastic retainer ring at bottom the flood switch.
I used pliers to grip the ring to take it out.
**Dry everything in the "well" where the flood switch sits.**
Now, remove the bottom front cosmetic panel. This exposes the underside of the appliance. Locate the flood switch wire underneath and gently pull down the small black plastic tab which holds the wires in place. This allows more movement to make your job a little easier!
Pull up on the flood switch and simply unplug it and swap in your new switch! Replace everything as you found it, don't over-tighten your screws, and make your kids load that sucker! Hope this helps, and have a beautiful day!

Parts diagram shows Striker can be popped out with screwdriver. Not true. It has a screw bolting it internally. Impossible to get to unless you disassemble the entire door. We took a power drill and small drill bit and bore it out like a cavity in a tooth. Needle nose pliers to extract the screw. Pretend your a dentist. Fixed it in 5 minutes. Replacement fit tight. A+

Popped in the new one and done!!!