This is a lower rack roller for your dishwasher. It attaches in the lower roller assembly on the bottom of your rack to allow the rack to smoothly slide in and out. This replacement part is 1.5 inches...
This part is a replacement gasket for your dishwasher. The gasket creates a seal at the bottom of the dishwasher tub, so water does not leak out while the dishwasher is running. If you notice water le...
This is replacement door latch for your dishwasher. The door latch is attached to the tub frame, and connects to the door strike to keep your dishwasher door closed during operation. If you have a bro...
The tub gasket, also known as the door gasket runs along the perimeter of your dishwasher basin and creates a seal that prevents water from leaking out when the tub is full. If you notice water on the...
This dishrack is for dishwashers. The dishrack holds the dishes in place during the dishwashing cycle. Follow the instructions in the manual when installing this part.
This is a flood switch assembly for your washer. The flood switch controls the hot and cold water filling your washer tub to ensure the proper amount of water. You may need to replace this part if you...
This is an end cap for a dishwasher rack. This part is about 2.5 inches long, is black, and is made of plastic. You may need to replaced this part if it is broken, or if your dishwasher rack continuou...
This mounting bracket is manufactured to secure your dishwasher to your countertop. Mounting brackets should be installed so the dishwasher doesn’t tip forward. You can fit the bracket to either the c...
This is a washer inlet valve assembly for your dishwasher. This valve allows water to flow into your dishwasher at the proper rate. If your dishwasher tub is not filling with water or filling when the...
This drain pump kit is for dishwashers. The drain pump kit removes the water from the dishwasher tub during the drain phase of the dishwashing cycle. The kit may include multiple parts; refer to your ...
$113.73
In Stock
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Took off the kickplate, diconnected the wires and removed the whole door by lifting straight up, removing spring wires from hinges. Once door is disconnected from the machine, removed one hinge by removing bolt. Slid gasket into place, secured hinge back in place, then reconnected wires at bottom, replaced hinge spring wires and slid d
... Read moreoor back down onto hinges. Now that we know how to do it, could do it in 15 min to half hour.
We tried cleaning out the filter and it clogged with a huge amount of gunk. We removed the gunk, scrubbed the filter, and tried running the dishwasher, but still no water. That took over an hour (not counting the time the dishwasher spent running). Then we tried your diagnosis center and it pointed to the flood switch or the water valve.
... Read moreI extracted the flood switch (another 30-60 minutes) to check it, and it also contained gunk and (significantly) did not rattle, which made me suspect the flood switch was the problem, so I ordered one. Once the replacement arrived, I checked it and the flood switch rattled, confirming that it should work properly. I spent 30-45 minutes installing it, plus the filter assembly and racks I had to remove to access it. Ran the dishwasher and everything came out sparkling clean. I don't know where the gunk came from, but if you aren't getting water and the filter is full of gunk, check the flood switch.
Didn't actually do the compete repair but got close. Pulled out dishwasher, disconnected and checked continuity on the existing heating element (about 16 ohms) the new element was also about 16 ohms. This indicates they both were working fine and no need for replacement. Next step would have been to swap the elements would have been
... Read moresimple. Tried to replace main board as well, still not the issue so giving up and replacing the dishwasher. It wasn't the high temp cut off thermostat either incidentally and no error codes in maintenance mode. Check continuity of your existing element before ordering to save aggravation.
