GCWM1069CD8 (ABWEELC) LG Washer - Overview
Sections of the GCWM1069CD8
[Viewing 3 of 3]Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Magnetic Door Plunger
PartSelect #: PS3618292
Manufacturer #: AGM73610701
This magnetic door plunger, also known as the magnet holder, is built for your washer. When you order this part, you will receive the plastic housing and a spring that goes with it. The magnetic door ...
$19.30
In Stock
Rear Tub Gasket
PartSelect #: PS3522855
Manufacturer #: 4036ER2004A
If you notice your washing machine is leaking water from the top of the transmission, it might be due to the gasket being damaged or worn down. When replacing your gasket, consider replacing your tub ...
$24.67
In Stock
Tub-to-Pump Drain Hose
PartSelect #: PS3523345
Manufacturer #: 4738ER1002A
This is a tub-to-pump drain hose for a front load washer. The hose features flexible bellows which allow it to expand and contract when necessary. It carries the water from the tub of the washer to th...
$55.29
In Stock
Washer Gasket
PartSelect #: PS3522859
Manufacturer #: 4036ER4001B
This is a seal for a washer tub. It creates a seal between the front and rear halves of the washer tub to prevent the appliance from leaking. If you notice leakage between the two sections of the tub,...
$24.67
In Stock
Washer Tub Bearing, Rear
PartSelect #: PS11711138
Manufacturer #: MAP61913707
This tub bearing is for washers.
Tub bearing supports the spin basket shaft at the tub.
Unplug the washer and shut off the water supply before installing this part. Wear work gloves to protect your hands.
$45.29
In Stock
Washer Tub Bearing, Rear
PartSelect #: PS11705912
Manufacturer #: 4280EN4001F
Upgrade your LG washing machine with this genuine OEM tub bearing. Designed specifically for LG rear tub models, this high-quality component provides support to the spin basket shaft at the tub, ensur...
$72.00
Special Order
Washer Tub Bearing
PartSelect #: PS11711139
Manufacturer #: MAP61913708
Tub bearing. This part is very difficult to install. The manufacturer recommends replacing the complete rear tub and bearing assembly.
$56.33
Special Order
Drain Hose Assembly
PartSelect #: PS3527325
Manufacturer #: 5215ER2002G
The drain hose assembly is a genuine OEM assembly supplied directly by LG for use in washing machines. The assembly includes the hose, connector, elbow fitting, and metal clamp. It is responsible for ...
$36.85
In Stock
Locking Pin
PartSelect #: PS3523451
Manufacturer #: 4774FR3118B
This is a locking pin, and it works in conjunction with your washer. The part measures to be roughly 3 inches long, and less than an inch wide. The pin is cylindrical, off-white in color, and made ent...
$21.45
Special Order
Clamp Assembly
PartSelect #: PS3517812
Manufacturer #: 2W20017E
The door boot seal clamp, also referred to as an outer door gasket clamp, holds the door boot in place in a front-loading washer. If your washer is leaking from the door and there are no signs of dama...
$21.45
In Stock
BOLT ASSEMBLY
PartSelect #: PS10058954
Manufacturer #: FAA31690703
This shipping bolt is an OEM part that holds the tub and basket of your washer steady during transport, stopping them from moving around and getting damaged. You will usually find these bolts at the b...
$19.30
Special Order
Questions And Answers for GCWM1069CD8
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Common Symptoms of the GCWM1069CD8
[Viewing 10 of 10]Leaking
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Lid or door won’t close
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Locking Issues
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Will not drain
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Spinning Issues
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Noisy and Marks Left on Clothes
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Water Filling Issues
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Burning smell
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Will Not Start
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Draining Issues
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Door would not close
There is a magnet at the bottom of the door which allows the door to be held ajar when the washer is not in use to allow the tub and gaskets to dry. A tab on the plastic housing which retains the magnet broke which allowed the housing to pull free of the door and stick itself to the machine preventing the door to close. Easy fix to replac
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e the magnet was $18. Instructions were included in the box. Part number on the drawing was A165. PS3618292 Magnetic Door Plunger
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Parts Used:
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Omnitech from Warrenville, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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leaking tub-to-pump drain hose
Pull washer away from wall. Unplug cord and remove drain hose from receptacle. Remove 4 screws holding panel to rear of washer. Squeeze and slide back hose clamps on each end of drain hose and loosen center clamp with screwdriver. Remove old hose. Reinstall new hose in reverse order using existing clamps. Re-install back panel.
Parts Used:
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Leslie from STOWE, VT
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Dry bearing noise, rough bearing, very loud in spin cycle
I went online and looked at the different parts companies for this brand of washer. This is an LG Tromm steam washer. I am pretty mechanically inclined so I watched videos on this machine which you can also find on line and U-Tube and took down some notes that I felt relevant for the disassembly and the repair. I looked at the break down
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parts schematics and ordered all the parts I felt I needed for this machine. The parts I ordered were the tub hub seal and the inner and outer bearings that go on the spindle shaft which is connected to a piece they call the spider that connects to the inner tub. I also ordered the outer tub o-ring where the outer tub splits in half. Note that I mentioned the spider and that they have a tendency to corrode bad, but you cannot see it until it is disassembled, the parts I ordered are reasonable, the spider can cost upwards of a hundred plus dollars so make sure you evaluate the cost of parts to the age of your machine and to the cost of a new one. Well on my front load washer when I finally took it apart and I felt I got lucky with just the two spindle hub bearings and the seal and the outer tube seal. After looking at the videos and taking some notes, written and mental, I started the disassembly of the washer. First " unplug the power to the washer". the next step is to shut off your two water supplies to the washer and disconnect the hot and cold water lines, note that I disconnected the lines at the washer just for the convenience of not having those lines hanging off the machine and out of your way. another note is that you will want an area with some space so you can keep everything organized and give yourself some room to work. Once you have your machine moved to a open space, start by removing the top of the machine. there are two screws, 4 total in the back of the cover that are removed with a plastic bracket on each side, these are Phillips head or cross type screws. once removed, take the top and shift it back about 1 to 1.5 inches, you then can lift the top off and out of the way. The next step is to remove the front control panel by starting with the wire connectors that go into the control panel. Each connecter is different so there is no mix up. next is to remove your soap dispenser tray, on top of the tray about in the center towards the back is a spot that you gently push down on and this will release the tray for removal and move it out of the way. There are two Phillip screws on each side where you removed the tray that need to be removed to be able to remove the dispenser section out of the way. there are hoses connected to the dispenser but once lifted up an out you can lay the dispenser with the hoses connected over towards the back. There is a large rubberized hose connection that needs to be removed which has a clamp on it that you need to loosen up to take loose the connection. back to the front control panel there is one more screw on the back side on the right side looking at the front that must be removed then the front control panel assembly can be removed. there are some plastic clips on the control panels back side that need undone, gently and be careful not to force these clips but slightly lift up on the rear of the control panel and it should come out of there and then set the control panel aside. There are I believe 6 screws on the top of the front door panel assembly that need removed but before you do that down on the left bottom corner you have a panel door which pops open then is easily removed out of the way. there is a small rubber line with a plug in the end of it which can be pulled a little ways. Get a container that is low profile and pull the plug on the hose and direct it into the container, you may or may not get any water out of it, it is the tub drain. reinstall plug when done and put line back in place. Next take the pump screen out by unscrewing it out counter clockwise like a bolt, it is about 1.5 inches in diameter, you may want to put a small towel down in front of it because you will usually get a little water out of it. Once removed, inspect the plastic screen for any debri and remove it and reinstall the screen. Now down in that same area below the screen there is a Phillips screw which needs to be removed and set aside. Now you go to the rubber boot behind the washer door when the door is open on the outer edge there is a metal wire that goes around the boot to hold it in place with a spring on it. You want to gently take a flat blade screw driver and not to tear the boot, work that wire and spring out of its groove and remove it out of the way. now you may take the rubber boot on the front and take it off its edge and push it back in towards the tub. Now we go back to the six screws at the top of the panel and remove them. at this time you should be able to lean the panel out enough to disconnect the wires to the door latch. Once the door latch has been disconnected, lift up on the front door panel and bring it out
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Parts Used:
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Cherie from PHOENIX, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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