GC2227SDFB Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

I watched the instructional video included with the shipping date e-mail(about 3 minutes long), and simply followed the instructions. It took about 2 days for the refrigirator section to return to normal cool temperature to the level set.

No instructions with part. Found a picture on line and changed the arm, but it didn't fix the problem. Fairly easy after figured out what needed to be done to get to the part.

Problem caused by ice cubes falling out of ice bin and collecting at rear and interfering with ice dispenser drive. Broke plactic drive ring. Pull down 2 clips at front bottom of ice bin. Pull ice bin out. Dump ice cubes. Remove 8 star drive screws to allow case to move far enough to clear broken drive ring. Replace drive ring. Reinstall and tighten 8 screws. Install ice bin. Correct loose right side ice cube retainer board to prevent cubes from falling out of ice bin.

The main issue is that my supports are NOT held on by screws -- they are behind the fridge wall and can not be removed. So this is my solution (ignore the 'fix kit' -- it is useless and is just this part plus a metal screw. It cost me $20 to find this out). Here is what I did: 1) Cut off the old support with a knife. 2) Get a small toggle bolt (I used 1/8" x 2", < $2 from Home Depot) and thread into new support. 3) Dig around in insulation to make sure there is space for toggle to flip open. 4) Install!!!! Wish I'd thought of this before :-)

empty frezzer take door off unplug wires going to ice maker unscrew/bolt icemaker replace door take motor cover off ice maker remove screws on motor replace ice cup and put every thing back together

Changed bulb, not the problem, had to remove switch to identify correct choice to order (3 pronged verus 2) after that it was easy beyond having to stand on my head to make the exchange. (N B before removing old switch it actually came back to life)

Emptied everything on the door, Removed the top hinge bracket then lifted the door off the bottom pin. Placed door on counter top, removed door closure with cup part on the bottom of the door. Installed the new closure cup. Removed lower hinge pin bracket and removed/ replaced the lower hinge pin part. Lubricated both pieces with white grease. Reinstalled lower bracket and placed door on pin. Reinstalled the upper bracket, aligned the door for proper closure and alignment. Verified door closure, job completed .

I removed three screws from top hinge. Lifted door off bottom hinge and set door on a flat surface. Replaced part and set door back in place. Put screws back and door fit tight again.

unplug refrigerator, take backing off with nut driver. Pull old blade off and put new blade on. Put backing back on and plug in.