G7CE3655XS00 Whirlpool Cooktop - Instructions

Took 2 screws under front edge of smooth top. Unscrewed ground wire from back of smooth top unit. Unplugged 2 wire bundles, from back. Took bad element out , put in new one. Put back together. About 10 min's tops. Easy peasy.

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

really easy! Removed 2 screws under the glass top at the front, access from the open oven door, then removed the ground wire, removed the stove top, took the element holder off,( 2 screws)and replaced with new element, 30 minutes. I ordered the part and came within 18 hrs of ordering it, fantastic experience.

Remove top by opening oven and taking out two screws in the front. Lift up top and unplug wire connectors on bad element, writing down where they are landed. Take out screw on element bracket and replace. That easy. Be sure to unplug appliance for your safety. :-) Also just wanted to add that PartSelect was great. Ordered it on saturday and was cooking with it on tuesday. Great job.

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

Took off top and pulled out old element and plugged in the new one

pulled off the broken knob and replaced with the brnadu

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

I watched the video you provide and it answered all my questions. You estimate repair at 10 minutes. My wife said I waz done in under 10 minutes Watch the video, it explained every step and all the little tricks to the snap connections.

Turn off the power to the stove, either by tripping the circuit breaker or unplugging the stove. Open the oven door. Unscrew 4 screws on the inside top of the oven releasing the cooktop.
Lift the front of the cooktop and release it from the retaining brackets on the back of the oven. The element will be exposed. Disconnect the wires remembering the locations. It is pretty simple because the wires are in a harness. There are three clips holding the element in place. With needle nose pliers, disconnect the clips from the surface. Remove the element. The retaining clips are in holes in the back of the element. The holes are numbered. Remember which number holes are being populated with a clip. Remove the clip from the old element and place it on the new element in the same hole #. Place the new element into the vacated space on the cooktop place the three clips in their respective places which will align the wires. Hook up the wires to the new element. Replace the cooktop (I cleaned it first) and screw it back into place. Turn the power back on and you should be good to go.

Ordered new element from PartSelect. It arrived shortly. It did not match the original. Guy at appliance store explained how I could connect the wires on the new one. It still did not fix the problem. A repair man tried for 2.5 hours to fix it with no success. Now I will return the replacement element in the return envelope provided.

After many years of use by average families, the cooktop was firmly adhered to the countertop by kitchen contaminates (mostly dried grease) that entrained between the cooktop and the countertop.

Popping it loose with my geezerly muscles was hopeless, so I took 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood to spread psi (at the bottom of the cooktop and at the top of the shelf below it), plus a 2 X 4 stud and more plywood as shims... placing in-between that plywood; a scissor jack from my pickup truck.

Locating this assembly to apply force at one end of the cooktop minimized the stress at the adhesion on the countertop. Results were no problem and no damage, in this case, in breaking the adhesion.

After that, a 1/4" nut driver did the loosening and tightening. A magnetic #2 Phillips screwdriver did the sheet-metal screw starting. A slot screwdriver was used to loosen the electrical connectors at both ends.

The repair was trivial; most of my time was spent in investigation, part acquisition, and setup. Here's hoping the above might cut your losses in that regard.

Two screws to remove glass top. 2 connectors to remove. Removed glass top and put it upside down. Remove 4 wires and 2 Phillips screws. Reverse steps.

Video said to remove screws and lift stove top off, remove contacts and ground. My stove top was hinged and required me to lift and pivot stovetop up. The burners were anchored to the stove base not the top. I secured the topso that it would not drop down and proceeded with repair

Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.