FRS22WPCW2 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Removing the old unit was easy enough, just loosened two screws that attach unit to side of freezer and disconnected the wiring harness. But the new unit never goes in quite as easily because it's always just a little different from the original. In this case, the wiring ended up being about six inches longer and the excess had to be stuffed behind a shield at the rear of the unit. Theoretically, the wire could have been pushed back through the opening, but it got jammed and wouldn't go. I had to remove side rails and pry the shield forward in order to get the wiring back out of the way. The unit is a narrow side by side, so there wasn't a lot of room to move around. But it wasn't difficult, just tedious. I had to make sure the wiring did not come into contact with the heating element at the bottom of the icemaker. Once installed it worked great.

Followed the steps in the video on your site, really easy to do.

unplugged, removed old parts, replaced with new

This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!

I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.

un plug fridge. removed ice maker from fridge. loosen 2 mounting screws. lift unit in slots to get over heads of screws. unplug wire harness. remove cover. remove 3 screws from control housing. remove 2 motor mounting screws. unplug motor wires from switches w/needle nose. installation is the reverse. plug in fridge turn on icemaker. takes 10 to 15 min to start to cycle.
easy and cheaper than new fridge or ice maker

Pulled unit away from the wall. Removed backing from lower controls and compressor. Unhooked water lines and wires to solonoids and removed malfunctioning valve. Hooked new valve to the the plastic water lines, connected wires and mounted new valve to the back support plate.

I used a small screwdriver to disconnect wires from old starter. I connected the overload and starter, two wires. I put the unit back in the keeper, plugged the unit in, turned up the thermostat and it's working beautifully.

Popped off the front plastic cover on the bottom of the fridge, under the doors. Two screws held the defrost timer on under the front side of fridge (below freezer door). You can't really see the timer except for the adjustment knob that is accessible through a hole. Once the screws are removed, disconnect the wire plug and remove and replaced unit. Works fine ever since.

I called Part Select and ordered a new drawer. They got the item to me within 3 days! I would definitely recommend them to a friend.

removed back cover from freezer to replace defrost stat. removed cover from refrigerator to replace defrost timer

I first unplugged the refirgerator. Note the time because the refrigerator should be unplugged at least 30 minutes before plugging back in (see end for why). A trouble light is necessary to see adequately. I removed the shelves and draws and put food in a picnic cooler. I took off the lower panel in the back of the freezer, and defrosted the coils with a hair dryer. I unplugged the wires to the defroster, and then the screw holding the coil to the back of the freezer side. I lifted up on the coil unit to clear the blade that inserts into the drain. I removed the bands on the top of the coil that hold the heating unit in place. I tilted the bottom out when there was clearance, and pulled the defrosting unit down and out. I replaced the new one, and reversed the procedure, and then plugged the wires back into the new defroster unit. The bands on the top should be secured before putting the coil back in place, as well as the foam spacers on top of coil, put the two wires back in the plastic clip that keeps them away from the fan and pipes. Replace lower freezer cover panel and screws. Put shelves and food back in. If at least 30 minutes have passed, plug the refrigerator back in. If you don't wait that long, their will still be pressure in the compressor and it will not start to cool properly right away. It works perfectly now. TIP: check the end of the drain hose periodically by taking off the lower back cover and pull th hose out - not hard to do. Mine plugged from dust and lint build up backing up into the end of the hose so water didn't drain out, and ice built up causing the defroster coil to burn out. I cut a little off the hose so the water level would not rise up into the hose, but the hose would still stay in place in the plastic holder.

I slid upward and disengaged the front cover off the old drawer. Slid down the same front cover on the new one, slid the drawer in and it was like new again.

Initially i though this whole thing would take weeks, The website provided detailed exploded views, I ordered the part and it arrived in 2 days. It was too easy.

First, I unplugged the appliance. Safety, first.
Than I removed the shield which was held in by screws. This covered the fan, thermometer.
The defrost thermostat was taken out, with a little extra force. The wires on the defective part were no longer attached to the part. The instructions were easy to follow in replacing the defrost thermostat. I stripped the coating on the wire, attached it with the enclosed electical bugs. The assy was able to follow, and the part went back on. The refrigerator is working perfectly. I couldn't have done it without the help in diagnosing the problem and with the speedy delivery of the new part. Thanks for all your help and the ease of the installing the new part!

Pull refrigerator from wall and disconnect the water line and unplug the power.

On top of the icemaker, two machine screws hold the icemaker to the side of the refrigerator. You will have to feel around to find the machine screws, but once you do, it is simple to slip the appropriate size socket over the hex heads. I found it helpful to have an extension on the socket wrench. Disconnect the power cable inside the refrigerator (there are little pressure clips on the side that help release the cable) and move it out of the way for the time-being.

Back out both machine screws several turns, but do not remove them completely. The icemaker slips over the screws, so leaving them in the side of the refrigerator makes that process a lot easier. Hand tighten the machine screws once you have positioned the new icemaker in place. One thing to be sure and do is make sure the water line hose coming out of the back of the refrigerator inside is on top of the icemaker. It fits into a slot in the top of the icemaker - failing to do this will result in water pouring into the freezer compartment, not into the icemaker..

Reconnect the power cable to the new icemaker and tuck it up behind the icemaker assembly. Tighten the machine screws completely, but do not over-tighten.

Reconnect the water line on the back of the refrigerator at the wall, and plug in the refrigerator. You should hear the unit fill immediately.

In about an hour you should have ice filling the bin. Enjoy!