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The oven would not light
First remove the oven racks and the burner cover in the bottom of the oven. There are two phillips screws near the back. Loosen the screws but it is not necessary to completely remove them. Pull out the bottom cover and this will expose the burner. There is one phillips screw at the front of the oven and one at the back. Remove these screws and set aside. You should be able to remove the burner and unplug the wire connected to it. Replace with a new burner in the reverse order. Plug in the wire and make sure the new burner is seated properly over the gas valve. It lines up pretty easily. Put the rear screw back in but be careful not to drop it into the hole otherwise you will have to use a magnet to retrieve it or pull the oven out because it will be on the floor. Replace the front screw and put everything else back together. Pretty easy job
take the 2 screws that hold the handle on out...watch the glass front and the side trims because the handle holds them on. Take the glass out then remove the side trims. Replace the side trims holding the glass in place with 2 pieces of masking tape om each side then install the handle with the 2 screws and remove the masking tape.
changing the part itself was easy, but the sheet metal covering the whole back of the oven was difficult to remove because of some screws that were stripped. The new sensor solved the problem.
Gas range would not go into self cleaning mode. When pushing the self clean button, would get three beeps!
The malfunction was narrowed down to the oven door motor lock, located at the upper left back of the unit. Removed two panels from the back of the unit, 8 screws. Then the motor, 2 screws, 4 wire connectors. Reversed the procedure for the installation, and solved the problem. About 30=35 minutes for the job. If your handy at all, it should not be a problem.
The Parts Came With No Instructions And We Couldn't Find Directions On Line.
We took the door off and took it and the side panels to the local dealer and he put them on for us - for anyone needing to replace the side panels on the over, be aware they slide under the glass front -not over it like we tried to do. We thought, though, that we were going to have a buy a new stove but for a little over $70. 00 We got the parts, had them installed and saved over $800 on a new stove - well worth the effort.
This repair is only if your old igniters are working but they are so cracked that the spark is not going where it should be. TURN OF THE GAS SUPPLY VALVE BEHIND THE STOVE AND UNPLUG THE STOVE FROM THE WALL.I had to drill out most of the old screws to remove the burners plates because of all the old baked on spills. I bought replacement screws when I bought the igniters because I felt this would be a problem. My repair time included scrubbing the stove top. Once all the parts that make up the stovetop burners were removed (NOTE WHICH BURNER PLATE CAME FROM WHICH LOCATION, THEY ARE DIFFERENT SIZES) and I could see the pipes beneath the stove top, I cleared off the top and used a spreading knife to push in the clips on the left and right sides near the front of the stove. It was thin enough to fit in the space between the stove top and main body. Push the clip inward and pull up on the stove top and it will let you lift the top. Be careful because it may release suddenly so be gentle. I also removed the top section of the back of the stove to access the igniter terminal block. A few screws, nothing more. Be sure to take note of which wire goes where. (They are color coded). Unplug the old igniters. it is easiest to cut he old igniters off of the end of the wires and pull out three wires leaving only one. At the back left of the top of the stove there is a rectangle channel that the wires are running through. There is a clip that holds the wires loosely together. Remove the wires from that clip or the next part will be difficult. Run each of the new igniter wires through their respective holes in the stove top. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE WIRE INSULATION IN ANY WAY. When you put the burner plates back on the igniters will be sandwiched in between the plate and the stove top. Using electrical tape, tape the connector ends of the new wires to the one remaining old wire. Gently pull the old wire through the rectangle channel, pulling from the back of the stove. Take your time so no damage occurs. Once the wires are pulled, plug them in to their respective terminals and place the wires in the loose clip. Make sure the new wires are not crossing the pipe openings where the burners are located. You can close the stove top and double check there are no wires across any of the burner openings. Re-assemble the burners and plug in the stove. DO NOT OPEN THE GAS VALVE. Turn on the stove and check to make sure the new igniters are working properly and sparking to the burner plate assemblies. You should see a controlled spark. Do not touch the burner plates or igniters or you will be shocked. If all are working then you may put the back cover on and open the gas valve. If none are working make sure the stove is plugged in. If some are working then check the connection on the terminal block and the wire insulation. If they are still not working then you've got bigger fish to fry. Good luck my friend. Happy fixing!
Trim piece on the botom of the oven was chipped in three places
I used the allen wrenches to block the hinges, removed the oven door and used the kitchen counter for a work station. I removed the trim piece at the bottom which released the side trim and oven glass front, and then reversed the procedure. It took more time to clean things than to do the exchange. My only issue is with Fed Ex who delived the first trim piece bent in the middle inside a crushed box. Part Select had another part sent the same day after I called them.
The replacement proceeds similarly as for electric range switch replacements described here, only this model is a gas range. The top panel does not lift up because of the feeds to the gas burners. It is possible, using a thin blade, to depress the spring fingers holding the switch in the oven panel, or else to remove it destructively. Be careful not to pull the old switch out too far, or else the wires will pull off the switch connectors and fall inside the oven-side panel cavity. This happened to me. The wires are very short. Another 1/2 inch of wire would have made all the difference. If this happens you have to fish out the loose wire. I gave up on this and took off the back panel (about 8 screws) and then loosened the bottom and sides of the side panel. This allowed me to retrieve the short wire and connect it to the back of the switch while pushing the switch into its mounting hole. Reattach the side panel, the back panel, and slide the stove back into place, and you should be good to go.
When I originally purchased my stove, there was a large paper describing stove features. It was glued on and when I removed it, it left glue which I could not remove. I s hould have returned stove, but I didn't.
So, after several years of it bothering me, I decided to replace the oven panel. I ordered it one day and it arrived the very next day. It was an easy job to replace. Just remove two screws in back and replace the panel. While I was at it I also replaced the racks. Now I have a brand new oven,thanks to PartsSelect!
Ordered parts that I thought were correct. BUT I ordered from the door parts... which gave me the wrong screw and unnecessary shims. What I really needed was the cabinet parts! At the time of doing the order, I could not find the owner manual... but found it before the parts arrived. That is what saved me and also thanks to me, for being a pack rat and my grandson finding the spacer on floor after it came out. That made it possible to fix the door. The screw I tried to install, but soon realized it was wrong. I went thru the pack rat stash and found the screw that fell out late last year.....! I then noticed the screw holding the hinge bracket was loose, now that is almost impossible to tighten because everything or tools that I owned were tooooo long (it's only 1 1/2" off the floor)! I tightened that and put the spacer and bottom hinge pin in. The screw was only 3/4" off the floor and difficult to get into the hole without a mirror on the floor under the spot. I finally used a clamp wrench to hold the screw and thread the screw into the hole. From there, most sockets are too long, so I did find a short socket. Now that still took me to the mirror, so I used the clamp wrench to hold the socket to tighten the screw. Thank goodness I am mechanically inclined and can look at a schematic to to understand how something works or I would have had to call for a mechanic. Also I should say ... FIND you manual before ordering to start with the right parts! Manual showed the parts of the cabinet and the door as one long picture, which helped with the repair and would have for ordering.
I had to use a dremel to grind the heads off the rusted in screws that hold the burners to the stove top then drill out the screws and use larger sheet metal screws to reassemble. Don't lift the stove top much with the burners attached or you'll bend the gas lines. Two screws inside the top oven hold the top down. Without the rusted screws it would be an easy job.
Take off the back panel of stove and unplugged timer motor and switch on door latch assembly,removed two screws that hold assembly and slide rod off. I put 110 volt plug to timer motor and it did not move, that is how I diagnosed problem. Ordered new assembly (cannot buy just timer motor)put new door latch assembly on and worked fine. Of course unplug stove before you start !
