FEF355DQB Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Took upper back off ( 6 screws), chech to be sure was right switch, pulled spade clip wires of, put on new switch, checked to see that it worked, replace cover.

After replacing the oven temp sensor, with no success of correction, i purchased and installed the electronic control board. After turning off the power at the breaker and unplugging the stove, I simply removed the top back cover, unclipped the wiring harness, unhooked the 5 oven element wires(writing the color and order for easier reconnection), removed the screws, carefully peeled the face plate off the old control board and re-installed everything in reverse order. Took me all of ten minutes and the oven works like new again.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

2 1/4 inch screws and 2 blade connectors fir the power. Took me longer to find my nutdriver than the repair.

Took out 2 screws, removed panel.
When you put the panel in don’t push it tight to the front or the screws won’t align. Just place in gently and the screws will align

Needed just a screw driver, removed the top back cover and unplugged two wire sets. Four screws and the mother board was off. My only problem was the facial front ended up pulling off some of the almond color when I pulled it off, even after I used a heat gun to soften the glue. Besides that it was very easy to fix and the range works perfectly again.

I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.

check for power in to the module,when it had incoming power,order new module,jnstalled it and walah done.

Watched the repair video on your web site. Used the video as a step by step guide in the actual repair.

Turned off power at the circuit box. After locating 1/4" nut driver (the hardest part of the repair)I removed the oven racks. Took the opportunity to wipe out oven. Removed the two screws holding the element in place.Pulled element out gently to expose the connections. Wiggled the terminal connector off the terminal on element. Gave the wire a little bend to keep it from pulling back into frame. Repeated process on other side. Removed new element from wrapper. Placed element on oven floor, reattached terminals--making sure they were on snuggly--carefully slid terminal ends back though slots in oven body. Lined up brackets, reinstalled screws, replaced racks and turned power back on. Turned oven on it worked. Made cookies! Very easy repair.

made a drawing as to where the wires were to placed on the new switch,took longer to do this than finding right tools. Important safety tip,always pull off the required breaker!!!

Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)

Just placed the chrome bowl trays in place and was good to go. They look very nice.

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.