FEF355DBD Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

2 1/4 inch screws and 2 blade connectors fir the power. Took me longer to find my nutdriver than the repair.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

Needed just a screw driver, removed the top back cover and unplugged two wire sets. Four screws and the mother board was off. My only problem was the facial front ended up pulling off some of the almond color when I pulled it off, even after I used a heat gun to soften the glue. Besides that it was very easy to fix and the range works perfectly again.

Took out 2 screws, removed panel.
When you put the panel in don’t push it tight to the front or the screws won’t align. Just place in gently and the screws will align

made a drawing as to where the wires were to placed on the new switch,took longer to do this than finding right tools. Important safety tip,always pull off the required breaker!!!

Turned off power at the circuit box. After locating 1/4" nut driver (the hardest part of the repair)I removed the oven racks. Took the opportunity to wipe out oven. Removed the two screws holding the element in place.Pulled element out gently to expose the connections. Wiggled the terminal connector off the terminal on element. Gave the wire a little bend to keep it from pulling back into frame. Repeated process on other side. Removed new element from wrapper. Placed element on oven floor, reattached terminals--making sure they were on snuggly--carefully slid terminal ends back though slots in oven body. Lined up brackets, reinstalled screws, replaced racks and turned power back on. Turned oven on it worked. Made cookies! Very easy repair.

Watched the repair video on your web site. Used the video as a step by step guide in the actual repair.

Step 1 Clear frame surface of any debris Step 2 Back out four (4) screws in bottom of glass holder Step 3 insert glass in to the top and allow to drop into the bottom channel. This may take some finesse Step 4 tighten 4 screws Step 5 clean up area and pick up tools

I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.

check for power in to the module,when it had incoming power,order new module,jnstalled it and walah done.

bought drip bowl from big box store and the 8 inch did not fit . yours fit perfect will use you for future diy jobs thank you

I just pulled the old ones out of the sockets, cleaned underneath, and replaced with new ones. No-brainer.

Watch video. This oven had the connecters that popped off and on which made this task easy.

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.