FEF316ASA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

pulled oven out, unplugged, unscrewed element attachment to the back of the oven (from the inside). element did not work. we tested the upper element and that did not work either. the burst of sparks, heat and flame from the shorting of the original element caused damage to the computer board. we called a local repair man to change the computer board, and then the unit worked, with our new element that we replaced!

I first unplugged the stove (which was the hardest part), I then set a bright light so I could see near the back of the oven. I then started the task of removing the old element by using a quarter inch nut driver, not to difficult at all. Once I removed the bracket I pulled it out far enough so I could disconnect the wires that were connected to the element. I had a bit of a hard time with one but after a little wiggling I got it loose. I was then able to remove the old element from the oven. I began the replacement of the new one, EASY ! I placed it in the oven, attached the electrical connection to the new element (made sure they snap in tight) and then replaced the bracket that held the element /coil to the back of the oven using the nut driver. All finished in about 15-20 minutes. I am not a strong woman , but a determined one. This fixed the problem and I am now baking like I have a new stove. The surface element is nothing to change , just unplug the old one and plug in the new one (simple). I use my front burner so much that it had began to smoke from so much food dropping and cleaning it over the years. MY main issue was the Bake Element and I really like my range and thought I would try this before buying a new range and I did it myself ! If I can do this anyone can believe me I am NO repair person, but this was very easy to do.

Make sure whichever surface element you are to replace is OFF.Carefully remove surface element by pulling it out of socket and remove drip bowl. Cleaned area around range top and place new or old drip bowl in place. Line up drip bowl cutouts and place on range top and simply push in/plug (2 prongs)in new surface element and place on drip bowl. It's that easy! To install 2 new surface elements and drip bowls took less than 5 minutes.

LOOKED FOR MODEL# OF STOVE.. ENTERED MODEL # IN PARTS.COM SEARCH.
MATCHED COIL AND DRIP PANS
ITEM NUMBERS AND SIZE.
PLACED ORDER.
ARRIVED FOLLOWING WEEK WELL PACKED.
PULLED OUT OLD COILS/DRIP PANS.
PLACE *NEW* DRIP PANS IN FIRST. THEN PUSH IN *NEW* COILS
**NO PAID INVOICE WAS RECEIVED**
Wed4/24/2024

Pulled out heating elements. Removed old drip bowls. Inserted new drip bowls and re-installed heating elements.

I was extremely pleased with the very quick delivery of needed parts.

The repair went relatively easy especially after reading that another homeowner found the door to be "spring loaded". I was prepared and made sure I held onto things tightly.I removed the screws as I came to them and carefully removed the other 3 pieces of glass, finally reaching the inner panel. Putting that in and holding it as I put the next piece back was the most difficult. Once that was in place, the rest was just a matter of redoing what I undid. Needless to say, I was a bit nervous the first time I used the oven. No problems though, works like a charm! Thanks!

First of all I would like to comment on how it easy it was to place this order and I was pleasantly surprised that it was rec'd the next day. Also it was the correct part that I needed. To install it, first I removed the screws and then the metal that was holding the broken glass. Once the broken glass was removed, I set the new glass in the metal strips and basically screwed it back together. Please note to be careful to remember which screws go where as they are not the same size and do not fit anywhere but where they belong. That was the only part of the job that I had a problem with.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

2 1/4 inch screws and 2 blade connectors fir the power. Took me longer to find my nutdriver than the repair.

It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!

I took the brads that were left from the old gasket off with needle nose pliers. Then I put the new one on. It was very easy.

Turned off power at the circuit box. After locating 1/4" nut driver (the hardest part of the repair)I removed the oven racks. Took the opportunity to wipe out oven. Removed the two screws holding the element in place.Pulled element out gently to expose the connections. Wiggled the terminal connector off the terminal on element. Gave the wire a little bend to keep it from pulling back into frame. Repeated process on other side. Removed new element from wrapper. Placed element on oven floor, reattached terminals--making sure they were on snuggly--carefully slid terminal ends back though slots in oven body. Lined up brackets, reinstalled screws, replaced racks and turned power back on. Turned oven on it worked. Made cookies! Very easy repair.

The front glides easily snap into a hole on the sides of the range. The rear glides easily snap onto the sides of the lower rear of the drawer.

It went very well. Very quick. Just took out a couple of screws, took out the rest of the broken glass, slipped the new piece in and screwed it all back together. This was the first time I had ever tried to fix any part of a range/oven before, it was very simple...

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.