FDB1050REC2 Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed the 5 or 6 screws that hold the plastic decorative top front cover in place (the screws are on the inside of the door at the top and sides). Then I lifted and pulled the cover off of the door. The wiring harness is attached to the control module. I disconnected the harness (it only goes on one way) and removed the screws holding the control module in place. Here's where it gets a little tricky. The control module is held in place by a couple of clips underneath the module that you can't really see. The module has a plastic case that does not need to be taken apart. All you need to do is pry gently on the bottom of the module at the edges that face away from the top of the door. It should snap out easily. Once it's out you can snap the new module in place. Replace the screws that hold it to the door and re connect the wiring harness (as mentioned before, it only goes on one way.) Put the plastic tops back on and screw it back into place. It took about 15 minutes to complete - I tested the buttons and they all worked fine.

Took the new Silverware Basket from the box. Opened door to dishwasher, removed defective Silverware Basket, put new Silverware Basket in its place.

Took out the old lower rack and inserted the new one. Was worth every penny. New rack slides so smooth.

I thought the problem was soap crystal build up, so I tried to file and chip it away, but after replacing the dispenser and checking with a magnifier, I found thet the plastic latch was worn and the dispenser had to br replsced. The video made it easy.

Stem and spray arm tabs worn to the point where every time the washer was used the spray arm would pop off and end up on the bottom of the machine, a screwdriver and ten minutes time saved a ton of money and updated the machine.

Bottom dish rack is a direct replacement with no assembly required. Top rack has to have the old center cone removed and placed onto the new upper rack. The top rack comes with rail wheels in place. In order to reinstall the new upper rack you must take the rail stops off to allow the old top rack and wheels to be removed and then place the new top rack with wheels into the rail grooves. Make sure they are rolling correctly and then replace the rail blocks. Happy dishwashing!

Turn off water supply to dishwasher. Turn off electrical power to dishwasher. Remove lower front cover to expose underneath the unit. Locate the valve toward the left, front underneath the washer. unplug the wire harness from the valve. lay a towel under the valve to catch water that WILL come out. Using a pair of needle nose pliers, squeeze and slide back the hose clamp holding the hose to the water bottle. Remove the 2 screws that mount the valve bracket to the frame. There is plenty of slack in the braided water feed hose to pull the valve out from under the washer. Remove the hose from the fitting and then remove the fitting from the valve. Re-wrap the threads of the fitting with teflon tape and install into new valve. Attach and tighten the braided supply hose to the fitting. Install the valve in reverse order of removal. It takes about 10 minutes to do.

all I did was replace the arm , however I took advice from another PartSelect customer - I had to screw the arm into the floor of the dishwasher until it clicked!! Now, it will not tip over.

This not was very easy to install I have to remove the fron panel of the dishwasher to see were to insert the new gasket i you instruction how to instal this was insert the new gasket from the rigth side to the left well if you look the front of the diswasher you insert from the lefth in to the place how hold the gasket inplase was not very esy to install but was don and working OK.

After reading the consumer reviews (which is a great tool by the way), I learned the bottom door gasket came out by pulling inwards toward the center of the dishwasher, NOT to the left or right. I finally found the slot in the door and inserted the new gasket in less than 5 minutes. The reason why I listed a longer repair time is because I started the machine to check for leaks. Unfortunately, I still had a minor leak and I believe it is due to the dishwasher being unlevel. I changed from "Normal Wash" to "EcoWash" and no leaks. Still need to level it. Since the house had been vacant for a long period of time, I think the original gasket may have dry-rotted. Overall, smooth process and great opportunity to learn a little about the simplicity of dishwashers. While your there, you may want to remove the bottom spray arm and clean the debris filters. Pretty disgusting...

The lower rack was very easy...just needed to transfer existing utensil baskets and roll it in place.However, The upper rack was not identically made to the original rack so could not transfer some of the extra feature pieces onto the new upper rack, as the rack wires were 'woven' differently, rendering these pieces from my old rack useless, as it was impossible to line them up, so precious time was wasted fiddling with that trying to see why they wouldn't line up. I did manage to remove and transfer the upper sprayer arm to the replacement basket, though.

took the old one off, replaced with new one put arm back on machine. Very, very simple.

The left-side dishwasher door spring snapped. The door was then noticeably heavy to open and close. To investigate the problem, I shut off the circuit breaker and the water feed. I removed the two screws that secure the top of the dishwasher to the counter, so I could pull out the unit and see the door springs. (TIP: remove the bottom metal panel as well to see if you have a flexible or rigid pipe for hot water. If you have a rigid pipe like I do you might want to be careful pulling the unit forward.) With the unit pulled forward I could see the snapped spring; it had actually shot up and was wedged between the unit and the cabinet. To to the repair, I attached the new spring to the door first. Then I closed the door so the spring was slack and used pliers to attach it to the bottom of the unit. (To access the bottom of the unit, you need to remove the metal panel at the bottom, as mentioned above.) I used the other spring as a comparison as to where to attach.

This is a case of weak OEM design. Substantial (cup) weight placed on the rack will ultimately cause these wheels to break under load stress. My fix went slightly beyond the design by installing 8 cents worth of washers between the wheel and the screw head. That way any slack was reduced so that the wheels were less stressed at an angle. The rack now sits square and the wheels more true than design. I picked up some lock washers at local hardware store and flattened them out to fit smooth. The parts supplied by PartSelect were perfect fits to OEM. This is a truly easy repair. If your top rack keeps falling off the guides due to broken tub wheels this will take care of the problem. I will add that the parts that you can obtain through PartSelect are adequate without improvising. I just went for a more robust fix to the original design with additional washers. Hope this is helpful.

Gasket at the bottom of the door had dried and become hard. Old gasket slides straight out the bottom of the door, and new gask slides into it's place. There's a registration notch in the gasket to make sure it's aligned correctly. It's really very simple. Removal of the outer door skin is suggested to make sure the gasket goes into it's slot, but it isn't strictly necessary if you dont mind getting on your back and feeling around as you put the new gasket into place