FA4160 Amana Washer - Instructions

installation was difficult because the "universal" valve was a different size than the original. The solenoids were taller on the replacement valve, could not use the mounting bracket because the unit could not fit in the confined space. I also don't know why the water outlet nipple had to be smaller on the new assembly, requiring the use of a Rube Goldberg piece of tubing.

Repair was pretty simple, as I was able to access the valve from the rear of the washer without having to remove any large panels. All I had to do was disconnect the water supply hoses, and remove a small cover at the rear of the washer (the valve is mounted to this cover). Cleaning the electrical connectors, which were lightly corroded, took longer than anything else. Replacing the valve with the new one was just a matter of making sure the electrical connections, and the hot and cold water supply hoses were attached in the same places as the old installation. There is also a water outlet nipple on the top of the valve which had to be connected to the inlet hose, and I replaced the old clamp with a new one, which I believe is always a good idea. Two screws attach the valve to the cover, and two more screws attach the cover/valve assembly to the washer.

Remove the front panel by removing the screws at the bottom of the panel; remove the screws holding top and swing back on hinges; loosen the screws on the back holding the valve and replace the valve following how the defective one was attached and then reverse the operation.

After watching the video on PartSelect, I ordered the part and received it the next day! The hoses involved were over 24 years old and is the only reason it took longer than about 10 minutes. The hot water hose was dificult to remove. Once I removed the hose, the old water inlet valve was replaced with the new valve within minutes...quick as per the video. The washer is back and was down for less than 1 full day.

Unplugged AC cord. Removed hot and cold supply hoses. Removed front cover (2 Phillips screws near bottom). Raised lid, and removed fastening screw for injector tube. Removed retaining screws for inlet valve mounting plate. Positioned mounting plate partially inside rear of machine and removed (4) wires for solenoid connections. Re-positioned mounting plate slightly outside machine and removed valve mounting screws and old valve. Attached new valve (no modification to valve needed for my machine), and worked backwards through the steps listed above.

Followed the video on how to replace step by step. It all went perfectly except the hose clamp needed to be replaced. Used a small screw automotive clamp.This Maytag is 35 years old and still ticking.

Be very, very careful not to cross thread the filler hose, onto the nylon valve housing. Recommend some lubrication, and a pair of velvet gloves.

Basically the instructional video video for replacing the valve was great, but pretty obvious. Unplugged the machine. Shut off the water and disconnected the hoses (if the shutoffs are old you might need a pipe wrench or large pliers to get them completely shut off). I kept an old towel on the floor to sop up drippage. Removed the screw that holds the plate, then the two that hold the valve, all with 1/4 inch socket driver. Remove wires, loosen hose clamp on inlet hose but make sure it won't fall down into the machine. The video showed how to rotate the contacts so that they were aimed the same as on my old valve - pry up on the frame with a screwdriver and rotate until it clicks into the other slot. Just reverse the procedure with the new valve - orange and white wires to top (hot) valve, blue and white to cold. 15-20 minutes if all goes well. Note, the plate and valve attachment screws may not all be the same length even though they look the same. My problems were due to the very old washing machine. The clamp for the inlet hose was an old type that could not be loosened and had to be torn apart, luckily I had a modern 1/2 inch clamp on hand to replace it with. I had to bend the plate a little to get the attachment screw hole to line up with the hole in the washer. Also the connecting hose washers were too old and had to be replaced. I would suggest replacing these in any case and using a large pliers to get them snugly tightened.

I didn't expect a problem, but watched the video anyway, it was right on the money. Make sure to use a new clamp for the hose.

Shut water off and unplugged. Used channel locks to remove hoses. Used nut driver to remove mounting plate. Disconnected electrical connections to solenoids. Broke one. Had to replace. Used nut driver to loosen fill hose. Rusty and broke. Cut hose. Used new clamp to secure fill hose to fill solenoids. Stripped and crimped on new connector and replaced electrical connections as they were removed. Reinstalled hoses and plugged in. Tested A-OK.

The most important part of my repair was watching the video that was sent to me with my order confirmation. After I viewed it, the rest was easy. The only hard part was moving the washer away from the wall!

I ordered the part. Watched the video and did the repair. I removed the cover plate on the washer, removing the screws. I then, removed the broken water inlet valve and replaced it with the new one. I placed the cover plate back onto the rear of the washer and "VOILE", it was done. I am a divorced mother of three, who has never attempted to do any type of home repairs, however, the way PartSelect has set up the website, it made it easy to determine what part I needed and provided me with a video which gave me step by step instructions on how to repair it. I even posted my victory on Facebook! Thanks PartSelect.

Because the washer was old, 27 years, I actually ordered a new machine but after doing so was able to get the old washer to pump out the water. It had overfilled and spilled water on the floor. The next time I ran the washer using "warm" setting the hot water inlet solenoid failure was evident. I checked voltage at the solenoid and it was getting power so figured I'd try ordering a $30 part. In a couple of days it showed up and after less than :30 minutes I had the washer running again. It would have taken less time but a screw stripped out and I had to locate a replacement. I'd definitely recommend PartSelect. Oh, we cancelled the replacement washer and figured the Maytag repairman could resume his slumber!

Disconnected the electric plug and removed the water hoses from the washer. Took off the old water inlet valve under a plate on the washer and hooked in the new one. As we dismantled each section of the valve hook-up we connected that area of the new valve to be sure we got it connected correctly.

First check that the screens are not plugged. There are fine screens in the mixing valve and at times you will find them in either end of the inlet hoses. Not a hard job if you can get to the back of the machine, just a few small screws, swap the wires to the new part and swap the outlet hose from the valve and screw it back together. Wife will think you are a wiz kid.