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F9857W0 Roper Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the F9857W0
1 - 15 of 70

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Bought motor, then bought blower wheel also
95 of 111 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from Coatesville, PA
  • Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
couldn't get blower wheel off of the motor. really tight. rounded off the wheel's square hub while trying to hold it still as I turned the motor shaft out. No, I wasn't turning it the wrong way :) I ended up going to the back of the dryer and using the multimax to quickly cut the wheel away from the hub. I love that oscillating saw! Just for fun, I put the motor in a bench vise and got the wheel hub off (in pieces). VERY tight! Ordered new wheel, and the job was smooth sailing from there on. I am guessing that experienced repair people automatically order the motor and blower wheel at the same time(?) BTW both parts were perfect matches for the originals. Not surprised; this has always been my experience with partselect.com!
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One burner didn't work all the time the other would go red hot
15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Phillip from Pekin, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.
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Dead motor
17 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Glencoe, IL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
1. Shut off gas and disconnected dryer.
2. Opened cabinet. Easy sheet metal screws and fairly obvious how everything goes together. NB: You'll need a block (or a helper to hold things while you run to look for one) to hold the drum while removing the front.
3. The motor is connected with a single harness, so wiring is a snap .
4. Removing the blower wheel from the back was hard. I braced the motor shaft and turned with all the leverage I could muster, but it was stuck. Plan B: Recip saw to cut the shaft. Motor comes out one side and the fan comes out the other.
5. The fan, of course, was unusable because there was still a piece of motor shaft stuck in the thread. This is why I had to spring for a new wheel.
6. Put everything back together and receive wife's adoring praise...
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Electric burners where consistently intermittently working right. Sometimes they would work on High but not able to adjust to low heat. Sometimes they would just not want to come on at all. Occasionally there was a spark at the connection. If I jiggled the element just right it may or may not wo
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JOAN from Pickford, MI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Thought we was going to have to replace the range all together, due to most parts not being available for this model anymore. Since this is an expensive model, we did not look forward to having to replace it. So I thought just by chance I would check to see if anyone had parts to help in repairing it. Part Select did happen to have the Surface Plug-in block kit that was needed. After going at least a year with this problem, I am sooooo happy to say it is finally fixed and working great! Thanks much Parts Select.
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Electric burner on stove would not work
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from Fresno, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were loca ted under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.
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Motor was bad
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from CLIFTON HTS, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
I have not received the parts yet waiting on the motor, can’t put the blower fan in without the motor, ordered it , Jan 23rd, still no motor, have to go to laundry mat, have you ever had to do that with 7kids, and you and your wife’s laundry, probably not, because you would have had your motor by now. Maybe you can help me with the part s o I can redo a testimonial here for you. 19 days and still waiting
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Electric stove burners working intermitantly.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from St. Louis, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
replaced old, worn blocks with new style surface plug in block kits - all 4 burners. Completely resolved the problem at very low cost (less than $50.00).
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Sparks emitted at burner connection and burner does not work.
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Doug from Puyallup, WA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan.
2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing.
3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire.
4. Slip on heat shrink slee ves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions.
5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.
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Stove-top Burner intermittently shut off and on-wouldn't heat properly
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George from New Bloomfield, PA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
removed old Plug-in block by removing 1 screw and cutting 2 wires. (Screw was so tight and rusty that I had to use vise grips to remove it). Installed new Plug-in block with wire nuts and heat shrink wraps. YOU just have to make sure the wires are seated in the block properly. This job was much easier than I anticipated. The burner works great now!
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broken blower wheel
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Vern from NEWBERG, OR
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
It went well, I followed the instruction video and referred back to it if any questions or difficulty. The instructor on the video was obviously very experienced and duplicating his actions exactly was very helpful, One thing I noticed that wasn't mentioned was that the thread on the wheel / motor is left handed.
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Screw hard to get off
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lawrence from BROOKSVILLE, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Drilled a pilot hole with a 1/16 th drill bit and tapped off screw head.
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Front Burner Would Not Heat
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • GAIL from ORCHARD PARK, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I cut the power to the circuit. Removed the burner and then unscrewed the old aluminum plate attached to the range top cover. Opened the topcover to access the wires. I cut the two wires being sure that I left enough length. I then slipped the two new wires with the brass contacts into the new black plastic holder until it locked . Reattached the new metal plate to the range cover, fed the wires through and snapped the new plastic holder into the aluminum plate. Secured wire ends with the ceramic wire nuts. Total time about 30 minutes.
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Burner would not heat up.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Nancy from Baldwinsville, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed 2 screws, cut the wires, pulled the part out that the element plugs into. Replaced the old part with the new one and put the screws back in to hold it, reconnected the wires and plugged in the element. Turned stove on and Valaaaa! It was fixed in 10 minutes! Thanks for the great repair parts!
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burner inop
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Donald from Milford, MI
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
removed the plug that had burned up on one of the top burners, replaced it with a new plug purchased from parts select., it was quite easy ,I unpluged stove and raise the top exposing wiring for the burners cut the old plug wiring and connected the wires for the new plug with connectors and shrink tubing supplied in the repair kit easy a nd quick repair
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light wont come on
4 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Fort Collins, CO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Well, when you put the back cover on and screw it down make sure you have nothing touching the white wire leading to the oven light. I did and it blew the push switch when I threw the 220 breaker. Actually, the light was on when I came in the room, but when I pushed the switch on the front panel it sparked in the rear and popped the break er. Then I saw the short and when I tested the switch it would not click. The install was fine.
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All Instructions for the F9857W0
1 - 15 of 70