EWMED70JSS2 Electrolux Dryer - Instructions

We followed a YouTube video and did the repair ourselves over an afternoon. We had one screw leftover (?) but everything went back together and now the dryer works like a dream! We bought a PartSelect part because we don't want to have to do this very often! ??

You must disconnect appliance from the gas, water and vent to access the back. Remove the top of the dryer which then allows you to remove the rear panel by removing all screws, You may also have to remove 2 electrical connections to get this panel off. Now you have access to the air duct. To remove the air duct there are 3 screws inside the dryer and 2 screws on the lower part of the air duct. One of the lower screws is facing toward the inside of the dryer and you will need a 12"+ screwdriver to be able to remove. Once you do all that install the new part and repeat steps in reverse.

I had difficulty getting the old part out to get the new one in. I just about had to take the gram apart to get to everything.

Once we got the dryer out of the cramped where we could work on it, the project went a little quicker. I'd recommend using paper plates/bowls, that you label, to hold all the screws for each piece you remove off the back. It doesn't seem like it will be a lot, but we had at least 20-30 screws in 4-5 different sizes. Unlike someone else's install, we had to completely pull the white back panel off, as well as the main back cover, due to one screw holding the air duct from the inside of the dryer compartment (meaning we couldn't reach everything from the back). Getting this screw out was a challenge and seemed like a huge design flaw, but if you can't get to that screw, the old air duct isn't coming out. There are 2 other screws holding the air duct but they're easy to reach once the back panel is off.
Once that was taken out the process was straightforward, we just took our time reattaching everything step-by-step. Now our dryer works like new.

Inserted lint filter into slot.
Replacement is exact match to original filter.

removed top and front of dryer then removed the drum to expose the blower housing. then removed the damaged unit and replaced with the new unit . Then put it back together. The hardest part for me was putting the drum back in.

I researched possible causes on line and watched a PartsSelect video on YouTube on how to test. I ended up misreading test results and ordered the High Limit Thermostat but subsequently realized problem was the Terminal Block. No problem, PartsSelect took back the Thermostat (I hadn't installed it) and shipped me the Terminal Block. My dryer was back up and running in less than 7 days from initial analysis to installation of Terminal Block. Instructions that came in confirmation email for installation were perfect and easy to follow. Total cost with new power cord from Home Depot was less than $50 vs a quoted service call of $175+ parts from local electrician.

Turn off water, un-plug refrigerator, dis-connect water, un-screw bracket, remove valve and replace same way...Very easy

Fast and easy. Started by pulling out refrigerator and unplugging it. Water valve for ice maker was already turned off due to leaking. Disconnected old valve, detached old valve, reattached new valve and reconnected water lines. Bled the lines and turned back on. Make sure temp in freezer stays at recommended temps for ice making.

i simply took the old one out and replaced it with the new one. it fit perfectly.