EWGD65HTS0 Electrolux Dryer - Instructions

I recently ordered parts for a gas dryer, Frigidaire GLGQ2152 ES3. When I received an igniter part number PS12585650 order number 14700077, the igniter was broken when I opened the box. I believe what happened is that the new metal bracket was wrapped in the bubble wrap along with the igniter. I called customer service and was setup to return the igniter which I did. Also, I ordered a second igniter. I receive the second one and it wasn't broken and the bracket was outside the bubble wrap during shipment.

As far as the installation of the "replacement" igniter into the gas dryer, I could not find instructions on how to install it. The received igniter is much different than the original. There was a small instruction sheet stating that the new igniter is different but can be installed using the new bracket that came with the igniter. But again there were no instructions on how to do this. It took me great effort to figure out how to do this.

The old igniter had to be removed by removing the old bracket assembly that the igniter was mounted on. The new igniter had to be installed onto the new bracket and then by sliding the new assembly under the old assembly, the screws were reinstalled. Although the holes where the original screws were to be screwed into were too small, they had to be drilled out. There was no hardware (screws) to install the "replacement" igniter onto the shipped bracket.

After much work, I finally got the new igniter installed (without breaking it) with the new bracket and the dryer is back in operation.

Once we got the dryer out of the cramped where we could work on it, the project went a little quicker. I'd recommend using paper plates/bowls, that you label, to hold all the screws for each piece you remove off the back. It doesn't seem like it will be a lot, but we had at least 20-30 screws in 4-5 different sizes. Unlike someone else's install, we had to completely pull the white back panel off, as well as the main back cover, due to one screw holding the air duct from the inside of the dryer compartment (meaning we couldn't reach everything from the back). Getting this screw out was a challenge and seemed like a huge design flaw, but if you can't get to that screw, the old air duct isn't coming out. There are 2 other screws holding the air duct but they're easy to reach once the back panel is off.
Once that was taken out the process was straightforward, we just took our time reattaching everything step-by-step. Now our dryer works like new.

Inserted lint filter into slot.
Replacement is exact match to original filter.

Read your article on possible repairs for different symptoms and after dis assembling and cleaning certain parts took a chance on the flame sensor, which turned out to be the culprit. Your help was a valuable tool in the repair process ! What would be the bee's knee's would be the resistance reading on the sensors that monitor the system for a more accurate diagnostic approach. But none the less you definitely aided in the repair of my propane gas dryer. Thank you very much ! And by the way the 3-4 day wait for the part was well worth the half price I paid versus our small town repair facility, Thanx again

removed top and front of dryer then removed the drum to expose the blower housing. then removed the damaged unit and replaced with the new unit . Then put it back together. The hardest part for me was putting the drum back in.

I researched possible causes on line and watched a PartsSelect video on YouTube on how to test. I ended up misreading test results and ordered the High Limit Thermostat but subsequently realized problem was the Terminal Block. No problem, PartsSelect took back the Thermostat (I hadn't installed it) and shipped me the Terminal Block. My dryer was back up and running in less than 7 days from initial analysis to installation of Terminal Block. Instructions that came in confirmation email for installation were perfect and easy to follow. Total cost with new power cord from Home Depot was less than $50 vs a quoted service call of $175+ parts from local electrician.

I purchase one tube of heat resistant adhesive but I change both seals if you could afford to buy a second to I would recommend you do so the one tube just made it. For instructions on how to prepare the drum for installing new seals I went on YouTube

Ordered part received next day fast shipping was great part in and working thanks

Flame Sensor didn't fix it but, it was easy to replace. Unplug electric. Lift up the top and remove wires from switch and light switch. Remove screws that hold on the front and remove front panel by lifting up and out. Sensor is on the left side of the burner, held on with just one screw. EASY!

Remove 2 screws at the upper rear attached to the top panel. Slide panel rear back and remove. Remove 2 screws attached to the front control panel. Lift panel upward. Remove 4 screws attached to the front panel (2 at the top, under the control panel, two at the very bottom). Lift front panel up and off, and unplug connector to door switch. Remove some more screws on the internal front panel edges, and the front to back brace holding up the control board. Lift panel up and out, and remove the drum, too. Thermal limiter located toward the rear, attached to the heating vent tube. Disconnect and replace. Re-assemble in reverse order.

i simply took the old one out and replaced it with the new one. it fit perfectly.

When I direct the dryer exhaust into the room during the winter there is an external lint filter in the ducting. For some reason,enough lint got by the dryers filter and over a few cycles clogged the exhaust. I correctly assumed that the dryer overheated and some thermal limiter had opened up. The manual had exploded views and I located the limiter. Getting to it was another issue. The manual gave nbo instructions on getting to the limiter, but I had installed a propane conversion kit when I first got the dryer. It was necessary to remove the top, control panel, and front panel/door assembly. Disconnecting the gas line,some cable connectors, and a few screws allowed the removale of the burner assembly, then removal of the metal tube that surrounded the burner assembly and held a number of sensors, including the thermal limit, which, as expected, showed an open circuit. The replacement part was ordered and checked out as a closed circuit, which it should. Reassembly was the reverse. A little difficult to work in the cramped lower corner of the dryer. I'm 82 years old now but machines cannot beat me!!