EW23BC85KS8 Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

First I pulled the ice tray out so I could see the solenoid housing/ice tray support(1 unit). Below the ice tray there are 2 screws that hold the solenoid housing/ice tray support. After removing those the assembly lifts up so you can see the wiring harness to disconnect. I pulled it out and removed the 2 screws to open it up. There is 2 screws holding the solenoid in place and one ground wire. This was an easy fix and I know I saved a lot of money.

I checked the dampener, it worked. The compressor and fan worked. I knew because my freezer was still hovering around 10 degrees. Coils were clean. Thermistor was the only thing it could be. Took all my shelves out. Removed four screws. Took the back panel off. The thermistor sits tucked in on the side. I piped it out, in clipped it. Used my multimeter to test the numbers. Numbers were off just a bit. Ordered the part. Crossed my fingers.,took less then 5 minutes to put the part in. Plugged in the fridge. It was sitting at 33 degrees in about an hour and a half. I can’t believe I fixed it. I knew NOTHING about refrigerators. For how big my fridge is, it would have cost 3,000 and up to get a new one with the same cu ft size. Instead, it cost me $44. That includes shipping. Thank you Parts Select!! Made it so easy to pick the correct part for my model fridge!

Unscrewed the water line cover. Removed the platic case around the water filter base. Everything went well until I tried to remove the two water hoses. After I finally figured out that I had to push in the release washer while pulling the hoses out, things went well. Unfortunately it took several hours of wasted time and several searches on the internet to finally figure this part out. From there on out it went smoothly. Old base came out with two screws. Reversed process for reinstall of new base. Water hoses just slipped back into place and locked themselves in. Just takes a little patience.

took the cover off
(cardbord) the fan will come off and go back on by hand no tools needed i changed the fan motor just to be sure. 3 little screws hold it on. the plug only goes on one way u can't mess it up.very easy job u shouldn't have any problems doing it.Jim

Pulled the old gasket out if groove on the door, cleaned inside the groove, squirted some windex in the groove to ease the new gasket in the groove, then proceeded to work the gasket into the groove. Made sure gasket was all the way in the groove around the perimeter of the door. Done!

Silly me. It couldn't possibly be the filter because it's worked for the last 9 months with no problems. Decided to replace the water filter base first. Repair was easy. I saw someone had trouble removing tubes from old base and I gave it a couple of tries to no avail so decided to cut the lines instead. Made it even easier. After repair, water continued to leak. So, replaced the filter itself and voila - leak fixed. Make sure you check the filter first. My mistake turned a $40 - 10 second repair into a $100 - 20 minute repair. Good Luck!

It's too easy to describe.

What's more important is that someone read this and see that you can save hundreds of dollars doing this repair yourself. I'm sure many handy people think that about everything they repair, but this repair is insanely easy and the $ savings ridiculous.
When I called the place I purchased the refrigerator from, they were more than happy to sell me the part with a 35% markup (your price was reasonable) and (when i asked) they told me that sending someone to my home to make the repair would cost about $400 ($200 per door) including the "home instal" fee.
I removed the old gaskets and put on the new ones (on both doors) in under 10 minutes. I confess that I did the job under the auspices of my very handy son but he'll agree with everything I just wrote. To the unhandy: go forth and replace your own gaskets.

determined it was an air leak. Freezer portion has no drain. A fan in back blows air in through vents to keep unit defrosted. There was a gap across the entire top of gasket where it seals up against the frame. Simply pull the old gasket out of its track around the entire door. No tools needed and the door does not need to be removed. Fit the new gasket into the track until it is securely seated around all 4 sides of the door. That's it. I still had a small gap between the top of the door gasket and the freezer frame. The freezer frame may have warped a little over the years. I applied a thin strip of weather stripping to the freezer body where it meets up against the new gasket. That did it.

placed filter in sideways

To confirm my diagnosis I first replace the filter still no water flow.
Check water supply from the wall valve: ok
Remove the entire inlet valve assembly and sit it over a small bucket.
Disconnect the tubing from the bottom of the 1st selenide valve: this is the one leading to the filter.
Place cup under water dispenser and activate dispenser. No water discharge from inlet valve confirm valve is bad.
Install the new valve matching the colored tubing with the color on each inlet valve.
Re-connect the water supply place container under water dispenser and activate: There will be a large gush of air then water. Dispense aprox 1 gallon of water to confirm all the air is purged from the system. Your refrigerator is now back to dispensing water and making ice.
Good luck everyone - Neville

Removed the ice maker. Took off the cover and proceed to remove the motor. The only trick was to dis-assemble the electrical connector to replace the wires. I chose to do this rather than splice the new motor into the existing system and it was simple with a little patience.

Easiest repair to make and half / third the money for a new ice maker. The in-laws have ice again (it was over a year).

removed fan unit from frig and installed new motor and then replaced back in frig. No tools needed. need to unplug unit and take apart and put new motor in the unit and then plug back in.

Took drawers out by removing 2 screws on top of rail near front, then popped black plastic cover off in lower right inside cabinet...sensor just un plugged and new one plugged in easily...did not fix problem though...display set at 34 but bottom drawer reads about 40 at best and upper drawer reads around 55...dont think the 3 little fans inside on back wall have been running

Removed the plastic water tubes cover with a nut driver. Disconnected water hoses. Dropped control box assembly with nut driver. Removed old filter base with phillips screwdriver. Assembly opposite.

We replaced the damper, but it didn't fix the problem. We then purchased and replaced the thermistor. (We had previously replaced the defrost thermostat). The refrigerator side is now cooling better, but not enough. The damper doesn't seem to be opening. So we have now unplugged the damper and left the opening between the refrigerator propped open and the refrigerator side is now cool enough. (We had previously tried keeping the damper open before we replaced the thermistor and the refrigerator didn't cool off. So the thermistor did fix something, but the damper doesn't seem to have been the problem).