ET18GKXSW0B Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Disconnect power. Remove back panel on the refrigerator. Relay and overload is a modular unit attached to the compressor. Disconnect module from compressor, install new unit. While you're in there clean the condenser coils with a vacuum and clean the fan and condensate pan. Reassemble, and you're chillin. Total time approx. 15 min.

The new shelf support part fit perfectly. I needed no tools just slid it on the existing bracket. Super easy.

Removed door and replaced bushing bracket was ok.

Reviewed Youtube video as a reference. Unplugged refrigerator. Removed old defrost timer. Matched the color of the wiring harness to the diagram that came with the part. Attach new part to wiring harness.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

The Defrost Timer is located in Refrigerator section (not the freezer) where your temperture guages are. Move panel and replace the non working Defrost Timer with the new one. It took my husband about 30-40 mins to fix. This was about 2 weeks ago and my Freezer and Refrigerator are working like new. I bought this Kenmore Reftigerator brand new in 1996 and I lost the manuel to it. Thanks to my daughter who found the Defrost Timer on the Internet, I thought I was going to have to buy a new one. This was real easy to fix. The instructions that came with the part was easy to understand and very self explanatory. It also had very good diagrams to follow.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Each side of the door had a metal strip bracket that was held in place by 1/4" sheet metal screws apprx. 8in. apart.. the outer lip of the gasket was tightened into these brackets..loosening the screws allowed the removal of the gasket from all 4 sides and corners..It was just the process of fitting the new gasket into the brackets that took the most time..making sure the new gasket was fitted all the way in for aligned proper fit,then tightening the screws evenly around the door frame..Then, 2 weeks later, this 27-year-old refrigerator's lower compressor went out,,and the refrigerator was history! YEAH!!

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

I simply slid off the broken supports, and slid the new ones on.

Followed instructions from ideoo