ET14JMXSW01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed two screws holding valve, removed two 1/4" water lines. disconnected wire clip from old valve.
Installed new valve, connecting water and electrical with ease.
Absolutely Simple!

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

First of all, I looked at the blow apart diagrams on Part Select website. That made it really easy to determine the parts I needed to complete the repair. Once I had received the parts and verified that all had arrived in good order, it took me 5 minutes and a Phillips screwdriver to do the rest.

We rolled the refrigerator out away from the wall and it was obvious where the break was located. We took out the old water spout for the ice maker and replaced the tube and the tubing from the solenoid. We turned it on and soon we had water dripping everywhere. We unloaded and defrosted the freezer which got all of the remaining ice that was stuck in there. We put everything back together. I read in some instructions in the manual that it might take 24 hours for the ice maker to reprogram itself and start producing ice. I was only about 12 hours and we had ice again and everything worked well. You really do not have to disconnect the water from the main line, the solinoid controls that part of operation and turns the water off until the ice trays are free and clear.

JLB

I removed all of the nuts around the door that held the gasket on, removed the old gasket, and then placed the new gasket on the door. Easy as pie! No special skills or knowledge required. Just a little patience to make sure the new gasket is sitting properly on the door before the nuts are tightened.

The gooseneck on the icemaker fill tube extends out beyond the back cabinet of the refrigerator, and is easily broken. Luckily, this part is a piece of cake to replace. You'll literally spend more time pulling out your fridge and cleaning out behind it then you will replacing this part.

Shut off water supply line, and turn off ice maker (lift the metal bar in the ice bucket all the way up). Loosen the hose fitting, and remove two screws. Pull out the old tube, and slide the new one in. You may have to wiggle the tube around from the inside to get the alignment correct. Replace screws and fitting. Turn water and ice maker back on, and check for leaks. It really is that easy! It took me longer to type this than to actually replace the part.

Only one potential catch. The instructions warn that you may have to cut the new tube to match the length of the old tube, so make sure you compare the length of the old and new tube. I didn't have to to do anything - the replacement part was the exact same length of the original. If by chance you do need to cut the tube, you'll need small saw of some sort, such as a coping or hack saw.

plastic warped in ,spaced out and, the socket snapped back in place.

Confirmed that the solenoid controlled water valve (Part # PS358631) between the water source and the back of ice maker was defective. I did this by removing the valve and plastic hose from the back of the refrigerator and pointed the end that went into the icemaker towards the sink. I applied 110 volts to the valve and noted that no water was getting through. Replacing the valve was a snap.

Found the model number of my refrigerator, sat down at my computer, went to PartSelect.com, easily found what I needed and ordered it. A couple of days later the part was at my door. With a srewdriver in hand and In less than 5 minutes the repair was complete and good as new. Total cost of repair$15.44. Of coarse I had to charge the wife a service call LOL

The problem was discovered to be a cracked fill tube head, This part extends behind the refigerator and is VERY vulnerable to breakage when the box is pushed backagainst a wall space! Placing a shim under the vertical part of the fill tube fixed the problem even without replacing it with the new part. So, now I have a spare!

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

Purchased replacement set of brackets.
Unscrewed broken and other brackets.
Replaced brackets and handles.
Done.

Parts went right into place as the pictures showed and was working again in about 30 minutes. The only thing that wasn't working was the ice took forever to make, but solved that problem by turning up the temp in the freezer.

I was not sure what was causing the problem, I thought at first it was low water pressure causing the hollow ice cubes. After some trial and error testing I figured a likely cause could be the water valve in the ice maker itself. I replaced that part rather easily using the existing fasteners in about 15 or 20 minutes. The ice maker has been working flawlessly since the repair.

Instructions were simple and clear. Removed knob, snapped off plastic control panel. Then removed five 1/4" head sheetmetal screws to remove metal bracket holding thermostat. Two more 1/4" head screws held the thermostat to the bracket. Then pulled off the three fast-on electrical connections and pulled the thermostat and thermocouple tube out. Reversed the process to install new thermostat. My 33 year old garage refrigerator now works perfectly again! NOTE: searching for "thermostat" on the site didn't work.. It's called a "cold control thermostat" for some reason. That's redundant; other than cold, why would a themostat be in a refigerator, for heaven's sakes!?