ED20PKXSW00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
freezer intermitently warmed to around 31 degrees
Being a jet mechanic I had to familiarize myself with refrigerators, then after 2 or 4 hours of online studying, opened the door pulled the temp knobs of, removed the panel by gently prying the top of the panel out,then up and out with it. I found tapping on the thermostat shaft or wiring connection started the compressor, verifying my belief it was the thermostat. Don't mess with wiring if you don't know exactly what you are doing and unit is plugged in, you will electrocute yourself!!! I received the thermostat, UNPLUGGED THE UNIT from the house wall outlet, took one screw out of the upper inner wall at the very top to remove cover, one screw at the back top to remove the other cover (at the control vent) for access to remove sensor, then removed 4 screws , 2 front, 2 underneath to drop the housing for defrost timer, etc., and then took 2 screws from thermostat, unplugged wiring from thermostat (3 wires, be sure to put them back on the same place in the new thermostat). Remove old thermostat, slide plastic cover off sensor and slide back onto new thermostat sensor. Be careful not to kink the line or bend it to sharp you will damage it, (use gentle curves when bending it,) and re assemble everything in reverse order. This took about me 15 or 20 minutes start to finish. Plug into wall and watch thermometer to verify success.
Parts Used:
-
brett from garland, TX
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
16 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Water leaking from under refrigerator.
Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.
The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.
The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.
Parts Used:
-
Ronald from DELRAN, NJ
-
Difficulty Level:Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
15 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Freezer was not staying cold enugh for ice maker to work. Discovered fan was not working to cool condensor. Fan motor would only run if manually turned.
Unplugged refrigerator. Removed lower back access panels and panel running up the back of refrigerator. Removed and disconnected old fan. Removed old fan motor from mounting bracket. Removed fan blade from old fan motor and placed on new fan motor. Connected new fan motor to power supply. Tested. Reinstalled.
Parts Used:
-
David from Cedarville, OH
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
14 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
light inside fridge was flickering and clicking
tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok
Parts Used:
-
bill from escondido, CA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
20 of 35 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The refrigerator door made a terrible bang every time it was opened.
The hardest part was unloading all the food from the refridgerator door! Once done, pry shroud off top door hinge, remove 3 screws and hinge plate. Lift door off bottom hinge. Remove one screw from bottom of door, remove and discard old lifter cam and spacer. Clean up a bit. Install new spacer and lifter cam. Tighten new screw firmly. Replace the lifter cam and spacer on bottom hinge pin (affixed to refridgerator body) using the same method. Replacing the door is easiest if 2 people do it. One person to lift and steady the door, the other has to lie on the floor and guide the door onto the hinge pin. Replace top hinge plate and screws. Snap shroud back over top hinge plate. Replace food in refridgerator. Close door. Done!
Parts Used:
-
Hank from Seattle, WA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
13 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
My Fan in the Freezer was making a loud noise
I went on the web to search for parts, did my screening of companies, and chose Partselect.com
They gave me accurate information, very nice, and double checked the part numbers, and the latest replacement part. I received it in a couple of days, followed the directions, and it's working just fine! I saved a lot of money through Partselect, instead of buying a new refrigerator.
NICE JOB Partselect!!
Thanks,
Michael
They gave me accurate information, very nice, and double checked the part numbers, and the latest replacement part. I received it in a couple of days, followed the directions, and it's working just fine! I saved a lot of money through Partselect, instead of buying a new refrigerator.
NICE JOB Partselect!!
Thanks,
Michael
Parts Used:
-
Michael from Imperial, MO
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Screw drivers
15 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
refrigerator door was making a popping noise when opening and closing
Not being a handyman I found this job realtively easy.I took most of stuff off fridge door, to make door easier to handle. I then undid top hinge door screws, 3 of them, lifted door out., replaced 2 cams.When putting door back on fridge, you have to make sure door is in exact position and top hinge is lined up exactly, or door will continue to pop a little.It took me a couple of times to get top hinge lined up exactly.
Parts Used:
-
Vincent D from Blackwood, NJ
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
10 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
condenser fan stopped working
1. Removed the cardboard cover.
2. Removed the terminal block and unplugged the old motor.
3. Removed three screws that held old motor to the bracket.
4. Removed the fan blade from the old motor.
5. Installed the fan blade (after cleaning) to the new motor.
6. Crimped on new wire terminals onto the leads on the new motor.
7. Installed the new motor using the fasteners provided.
8. Plugged the new motor wires onto the proper terminals in the terminal block.
9. remounted the terminal block.
10. reinstalled the cardboard cover.
2. Removed the terminal block and unplugged the old motor.
3. Removed three screws that held old motor to the bracket.
4. Removed the fan blade from the old motor.
5. Installed the fan blade (after cleaning) to the new motor.
6. Crimped on new wire terminals onto the leads on the new motor.
7. Installed the new motor using the fasteners provided.
8. Plugged the new motor wires onto the proper terminals in the terminal block.
9. remounted the terminal block.
10. reinstalled the cardboard cover.
Parts Used:
-
Steven from Brigham City, UT
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
10 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Condenser fan motor seized
While investigating a water leak I discovered the condenser fan seized. I removed the fan to prevent a fire and ordered the part. The hardest part was identifying the correct fan. That took longer than the installation.
I cut the wires and spliced in the new motor. It rotated correctly and I replaced the crill.
Done
Total time of ice maker water leak repair and fan replacement about 1 hour.
I cut the wires and spliced in the new motor. It rotated correctly and I replaced the crill.
Done
Total time of ice maker water leak repair and fan replacement about 1 hour.
Parts Used:
-
Benjamin from Daytona Beach, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
9 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Compressor would not kick on automatically
I removed the two screws that were readily in view. I then figured out the there was a faceplate which I was able to pry off after removing the temp control knobs. The temp control unit was easily accessible and was held by two screws which I removed with the nut driver. The only difficult part was replacing the plastic tubing which covered the sending unit.
Parts Used:
-
Robert from Brooklyn Center, MN
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
10 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
There was no light on in refrig area
Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.
Parts Used:
-
Lori from Chuluota, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
12 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
part of a freezer support bracket was missing
I wasn't sure the kit included the part I needed from the pictures, but it did. The part slipped over the flat plastic bracket attached to the right freezer wall and the shelf fit over it. No tools required.
Parts Used:
-
peter from saint augustine, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
9 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Severed/Rusted Support Shelf Stud
Easy as cutting through warm butter. Just grabbed the base of the broken stem flush with the wall of the fridge using the wide-angle setting of a normal pliers, and twisted it out. Left over was a hole to insert the replacement stem. Inserted stem, twisted clockwise into place, and done. Much better design than other units I've worked on becvause the replacement part has stout-gauge wires that, when new stem is twisted into place, "locks" it in so you don't need to reinforce it, acting somewhat like an anchor screw on the wall for hanging a picture. Thanks for the perfect part!! Service and delivery are excellent.
Parts Used:
-
Chris from Pensacola, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Pliers
9 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Freezer Cooling Problems - would get too warm then too cold. Condenser fan would run sometime but not always
Unplug
Remove entire back panel (both chipboard and metal fan grill)
Unscrew both fan mount plate screws - fan won't be able to come out because it is still plugged in
When looking at back of fridge, locate a small plastic box to the immediate left of the condenser. It's a circuit block. Release the metal spring clip holding the plastic cover in place, and trace the fan wire connections back to the fan. Make a note of which wire is connected to which terminal (1 of the fan wires has white lettering and 1 is just black)
Unplug both fan wire connects from circuit block to release the fan power cable.
Remove the fan mounting plate
Release fan blade clip by pressing fan against motor and unscrewing and remove fan blades
Unscrew motor from brackets - note alignment of motor on brackets
Mount new motor on brackets. Leave plug wire disconnected (replacement motor has a harnessed plug wire)
Connect new plug wire to the circuit block keeping wires connected to the proper terminals
Snake new plug wire behind condenser like the old wire was and run through cable bracket to the back right of the condenser
Plug wire harness into motor and re-mount fan mount plate
Reattach fan blade and secure using blade mount kit
Replace back panels
Remove entire back panel (both chipboard and metal fan grill)
Unscrew both fan mount plate screws - fan won't be able to come out because it is still plugged in
When looking at back of fridge, locate a small plastic box to the immediate left of the condenser. It's a circuit block. Release the metal spring clip holding the plastic cover in place, and trace the fan wire connections back to the fan. Make a note of which wire is connected to which terminal (1 of the fan wires has white lettering and 1 is just black)
Unplug both fan wire connects from circuit block to release the fan power cable.
Remove the fan mounting plate
Release fan blade clip by pressing fan against motor and unscrewing and remove fan blades
Unscrew motor from brackets - note alignment of motor on brackets
Mount new motor on brackets. Leave plug wire disconnected (replacement motor has a harnessed plug wire)
Connect new plug wire to the circuit block keeping wires connected to the proper terminals
Snake new plug wire behind condenser like the old wire was and run through cable bracket to the back right of the condenser
Plug wire harness into motor and re-mount fan mount plate
Reattach fan blade and secure using blade mount kit
Replace back panels
Parts Used:
-
JAMES from Middleboro, MA
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
10 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
fan had stopped-freezer not performing etc.
simply removed old motor and replaced new. I'm over 82 and it was hard to get down and up to floor level!! One thing was a little puzeling -that was to insert the right screws which had a nitch in the end of the threds to keep it from loosening- I thought I was spoiling the threds cause I had to use a little pressure to start the screws and thought I had the wrong screws--they had sent several sets of them for different name brands- but II got it and everything seems to be allright - Could you tell me if I could purchase a replacement compressor and some refrigerent -the new kind. thank you, George Erlandson Only if my comp. goes out!!!
Parts Used:
-
George from Glenwood, MN
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
8 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!