EC515WWV0 Whirlpool Ice Maker - Instructions

Pry old switch and pull out. Disconect two wires. Put two wires on new switch, must be inserted right and connections not loose. Put switch in, making shure wies do not come off and snap in place

Unplug appliance. Socket wrench to unscrew two screws. Module drops down. disconnected two press-on wires by prying off with screwdriver. Removed old switch. Press-fit new switch. Reconnected two wires (color coded). Screwed module back in place. Plug in appliance.

I pried the old one out with a screw driver and pushed the new one in. I expected instructions in the box it came in but there were none.

Popped the old one out with a kitchen knife and popped the new one back in. It tool less than 15 seconds!!

My owners manual said to unplug fridge from elec outlet, use a kitchen knife to gently pry off the switch plate
(manual had a pictoral example), unclip the two wire, replace with on new switch and replace the switch. Close
door and plug back in. Open door to check that the lite
works. Walla! It did. Thanks!

Sincerely, Ron Marshall, Billings, MT

Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

We tried repairing with a new switch which was very easy to install but it didn't fix the problem.

This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.

Impossible to pass the water tubing through the door as kitchenaid spliced the water tube behind the dispenser and also within the door with tube connectors and not to mention that it was also bundled with the wiring harness. I freshen the connections behind the door and after the tubing exited the door. No leak so far. The only piece of the purchased tubing I used was the spout and attached 12 inch strip of the tubing.

I took the freezer door handle off, removed the door panel covers, removed the ice/water cover, then removed the backing to expose the tubing from the broken spout to a coupling behind the enclosure. Cut the tubing to length on the replacement tip, secured coupling, installed adn then put the door back together.

Easy repair once you figure out how the door is assembled. Note there are two replacement parts supplied in the kit. You only need one, but.... don't throw anything away yet, we have a special use for the extra part. 1) Pull the surround to reveal the mounting point for the dispenser. There is an inner panel that has a couple screws that needs to come out. 2) Disconnect the switch plate from the harness. Ensure you have the wire colors written down. My fridge had them marked on the switch, but be sure to check first. 3) Disconnect the water line under the door. Instructions show a threaded coupling, but mine was a press fit. Easy to undo, just put pressure on the collar at the union, then pull the tube out. 4) Remember the extra tube in the kit? This is where to use it. The tube in the door follows a channel down to the door hinge. However, it sometimes hangs up on the hinge ferrel, which means you have to pull the door to fish it out. To avoid having to pull the door, use the extra tube as a "fish tape." String or twine works just as well. Tape (duct tape, electrical tape, etc.) the end of the old tube to the extra tub supplied in the kit. You can tell which one by comparing the nozzle ends, they are different. You want this tape joint to be smooth without a big bulge. 5) Remove the screw holding the old nozzle and gently pull the old nozzle and tube from the door. 6) Disconnect the old tube from the extra tube, then connect the new replacement tube to the extra tube. 7) Carefully draw the new tube into the door. 8) Disconnect the extra tube from the new tube and reconnect the new tube to the water line. 9)Mount the nozzle, re-install the inner panel, re-connect the switch assembly, then reassemble the surround.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.