DRT2142BC (PDRT2142BC0) Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Water Intake valve for icemaker in Amana refrigerator
We found that the icemaker was not getting water due to a faulty intake valve. The original valve had a plastic coupling on the vinyl tube leaving the valve. The replacement valve had a quick connect coupling. Replacing the valve with the new part gave a significant leak. After discussion and viewing YouTube directions multiple times, the part was returned; and a new part was sent. It also leaked.
After searching, a video was found that dealt with the no-fail quick connect. The problem was not in the quick connect but in the tube from our refrigerator which had a spring inside the last five inches of the tube. This aided the prevention of a leak when the original plastic coupling had been installed.
SOLUTION: Removing the part of the tube with the spring using a clean cut allowed the quick connect to work preventing the leak. This needs to be mentioned in the how-to videos to save others having a problem. Also, these instructions with the part would be helpful.

The longer than usual repair times shown above were the result of the spring insert in the plastic water tube of the refrigerator. Nowhere in the how-to instructions were references made of either an insert in the tube or quick connect procedures.

We were well pleased with the support rendered by the PartSelect staff.

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

Really easy. Turned the water off, unplugged the fridge and took off a few bolts and swapped the valve out for new. It was basically plug and play. The ice maker started working its next cycle.

Used online resources to deteremine that it was either the icemaker not telling the valve to open or the valve no opening so ordered both and started with the valve (cheaper part). Turn off the water, removed the mounting screws, disconnected the plug, removed the water line (used the wet vac to suck up water while it leaked out). and disconnected the inlet line. Reconnected everything in reverse order but left unmounted until sure it worked, turned water on and waited.

We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing

Just a matter of snapping part in.

At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved me $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

This water valve is slightly different from the original on my older GE refrigerator (i.e., the mounting bracket is larger and oriented differently, thus doesn't fit). To still use the part, I first tried mounting the new valve on my original bracket, but this resulted in a sideways mounting of the solenoid/magnet valve. This orientation generated a slower and noisier water pumping action (the solenoid/magnet valve is assisted by gravity, so it needs be installed with the top of the solenoid facing up). Then I opted to use the original valve plastic housing and bracket and switch out all rubber seals and gaskets and the enitire solenoid/magnet assembly from the new one. This worked like brand new.

After disconnecting the electricity. I followed the instructions as indicated in the "HOW TO" article on the website. I used a steel putty knife and pried the light switch out of its retaining hole. I worked the right side the most since this is the side with the retaining clip. After I removed the switch I transferred the two electrical outlets to the new switch and easily snapped it into place. Engaged the electric power and tested the switch.

By watching a video.

Turn off water supply. Unplug the refridgerator and move so easy access to back. Remember to lower front right wheel to lift rubber foot off ground. Locate valve and remove, note color orientation of wiring (I did not have to remove cardboard cover.) Have a bucket and towel handy because water will spill. Compare the valves to ensure correct part. Apply teflon tape to threads and reconnect hoses and turn on water supply to check for leaks. Then connect power supply and re-attach to refridgerator. Use vac to clean back of refridgerator of dust and build up. Move refridgerator into position and raise front right wheel until rubber foot is back on floor. Use vac to clean coils in the front of the refridgerator. Replace grill. I allowed 4 batches to run before using ice. Pretty simple repair.