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Models > DG170AXV2 > Instructions

DG170AXV2 Westinghouse Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the DG170AXV2
31 - 45 of 171
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Drum stoppped spinning, motor didn't.
Opened the top, removed the 4 screws that held the front top the cabinet, took the front off, went after the dust with the vacuum cleaner, lifted the drum, installed the belt, put the front back on, and put the belt over the idler. Most of the time was in the cleaning.
Parts Used:
Flat Style Belt
  • Allen from Cardington, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Rear Bearing wearing out
I first looked at your directions then felt I could do the repair. So I ordered the part. The video was extremely helpful and allowed me to follow each step in the process. Last time I paid $270 for the exact repair. This time I costs me under $30. Plus I was able to clean out the entire inside of the dryer. The sitr instructions were very helpful and on target for any level of experience. I fixed my own dryer and saved a ton on it! Thank You, Randy In Colorado
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Randy from CENTENNIAL, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Broken door clip
Literally pop it in the small opening. Super easy and works perfectly now!
Parts Used:
Door Latch Kit
  • Gregory from SAN RAFAEL, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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bearing went out
took apart and replaced parts easy to do but no one in my town can get me parts. thay want 100.00 gust to come out and look at it so found parts online and thats that
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • james from tahlequah, OK
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Noisy
Took it apart and installed the parts. Then I threw the dryer in the trash and bought a new one.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • April from CARYVILLE, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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The igniter glowed red and the gas did not come on !
Read your article on possible repairs for different symptoms and after dis assembling and cleaning certain parts took a chance on the flame sensor, which turned out to be the culprit. Your help was a valuable tool in the repair process ! What would be the bee's knee's would be the resistance reading on the sensors that monitor the system for a more accurate diagnostic approach. But none the less you definitely aided in the repair of my propane gas dryer. Thank you very much ! And by the way the 3-4 day wait for the part was well worth the half price I paid versus our small town repair facility, Thanx again
Parts Used:
Flame Sensor
  • stefan from alpena, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Door latch receiver broke
Super simple pushed in the new receiver and boom all good and working
Parts Used:
Door Latch Kit
  • sandra from PLYMOUTH, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
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Dryer does not start
Followed video instructions, easy installation. Unfortunately it didn't fix the problem. Plan to take back off and check belt, etc before ordering another part.
Parts Used:
Door Latch Kit
  • Anna from FLORENCE, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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load squeal
replaced rear drum bearing kit. Watched video made it real easy. The only problem was getting the belt back on the pulleys.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Mark from HGHLNDS RANCH, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Dryer drum stopped spinning
First I took the drum out of the dryer. This was an easy tear down. I had to remember 2 wires, and a belt assembly ( 2 pullies ). I removed 3 screws inside the drum to release the bearing assembly from the back. Then I went to the dryer chasis and removed the mounting bracket by removing 2 screws. I simply replaced the mounting bracket with the new one. This required having to use a magnet to hold a small ball bearing in place while I worked the rest of the pieces in position.I greased it up and went back to the drum. I replaced the old bearing assembly with the new one. Easy. I took the time to shop-vac the inside of the dryer. There was a lot of loose lint, candy rappers, coins, etc. Finally, I put it back together. Unfortunately, this is the forth (4th) time I've had to do this. It's cheaper than buying a new dryer. Now, I've got to fix the washer.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Ron from Senatobia, MS
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Loud squealing
As all others have said, without being redundant, I'd view post #1 or #2 for a good detailed set of instructions.

The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.

Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.

Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • John from Avis, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Very loud squeak
First I unplugged the dryer. Then I gently pryed the top of the dryer. This was done from the front using a flat screw driver. Do this gently pushing up on the handle of the tool. It will pop up one side at a time. No need to remove the screws and clips on the the rear top of the dryer. Set the top aside. Then from the inside front of the dryer using a phillips screw driver I removed two screws, one on each side. This allowed me to lift the front of the dryer up and away from the unit, off the two clips on the bottom front of the unit. I set the front cover on top of the dryer. There is no need to disconnect any wires. Next removed the rear vented cover on the back of the dryer so I could acess the belt pullies. From here I pushed the upper left pully to the right to ease belt tension and take the belt off that pully. Slide the belt to the rear of the drum. Next I removed the three screws from the center most part of the inside of the dryer drum. My dryer required the use of a square head driver tool. This allowed me to easily bring the dryer drum out the front of the unit. Set it out of your way. Then I vacuumed the dust out of the dryer. Then I lifted out the metal part that resembles a trailer hitch which had been attached to the dryer drum. Next using a nut driver I removed the two screws which hold the white plastic part of the bearing assembly to the rear of the dryer. That is all the taking apart work.
Putting it all back together was not too difficult. First install the new white plastic part of the bearing assmbly inside the dryer along with the metal part on the outside rear. The little metal ball bearing goes on the OUTSIDE between the little metal part and the rear wall of the dryer. Do not leave it out as it provides electrical grounding between the dryer drum and the body of the dryer. Next attach the new bearing part that looks like a trailer hitch to the rear of the dryer drum. This is the three screw part. Then lift the drum back into the dryer. Do not yet set the drum all the way in. The dryer belt must be looped around the drum. I installed a new belt. If the bearing is worn out it is time for a new belt. The smooth side of the belt goes against the dryer drum. Now apply a generous amout of lubricant to the white plastic cradle which was installed on the back of the dryer and to the ball bearing area. Then the dryer drum may be set into place, that is the trailer hitch part into the white plastic cradle. Now the front of the dryer may be reinstalled. Push up on the inside of the dryer drum to line everything back up. Put the two screws back which hold the dryer front on. Be carefull not to drop them inside. Put the dryer belt back into place on its pullies. It goes on the inside of the left and right pullies and on the outside (bottom) of the pully of the dryer motor. Check for and undo any twists. Plug in and test the dryer. All should be well. Reinstall the rear vented cover. Replace the top, connecting the rear first. Make sure to reattach the green grounding wire. Then push the front of the top down onto its clips. You are done! This took me 1 hour and 10 minutes. It sounds like alot but you can do it! Empower yourself!
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • George from Bozeman, MT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Dryer making metal on metal noise....
Just like in the video, but with a stackable washer/dryer unit, works like new now....
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • James from RACINE, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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broken belt and pulley
First of all, I've purchased a belt from local service center that cost me more than $21 (local tax is 8.5%). But, I can not find the idel pulley assembly so I searched on the Internet and ordered from PartSelect.com.

Surprisedly, my order came just one day - they must cross-ship from local distribution that it's even faster than to get those in local stores (driving .. and hope they have what I want ..).

I've replaced the belt 2 days ago - it's easy with 4 screws removed to pull out the front door. The back panel is opened with 2 screws remove, and very easy to replace the pulley.

It's a heavy duty gas dryer made in 1989 and this is the third time I changed the belt and the first time to change a new pulley. I would recommend to change the idle pulley because I may not need to change the belt if I have had replaced it last time. A broken or not functional idle pulley may damage the belt in a short time.

Appliance such as gas dryer like mine will last forever with replaceable belt and pulley. I'm really happy to see a working dryer (almost 20 years old) and my wife is asking a small component for her washer .. that I think I can easily fix that too .. with the help of PartSelect search.

Hope this will help.

John
Parts Used:
Flat Style Belt Idler Pulley Assembly
  • John from Temple City, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Drum was not revolving
Open the back plate. Broken pulley was already out of place. Put the spring on the pulley and placed it. It took me less than 10 min
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Assembly
  • khalid from HILLSBOROUGH, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the DG170AXV2
31 - 45 of 171