DE170ADD3 Westinghouse Dryer - Instructions

Opened the top, removed the 4 screws that held the front top the cabinet, took the front off, went after the dust with the vacuum cleaner, lifted the drum, installed the belt, put the front back on, and put the belt over the idler. Most of the time was in the cleaning.

my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.

Just like in the video, but with a stackable washer/dryer unit, works like new now....

I first looked at your directions then felt I could do the repair. So I ordered the part. The video was extremely helpful and allowed me to follow each step in the process. Last time I paid $270 for the exact repair. This time I costs me under $30. Plus I was able to clean out the entire inside of the dryer. The sitr instructions were very helpful and on target for any level of experience. I fixed my own dryer and saved a ton on it! Thank You, Randy In Colorado

I took the dryer apart to vacuum and check because of the screaching noise. Took drum out and found the bearing in pieces and shaft had rubbed against the brace. I thought as old as my dryer was I would never get a piece to fix it. I got online and found PartSelect.com. I found the part but could not tell if all was included. there was a Phone Number so I called it. I was helped instantly. They acted like it was no big deal to have a dryer that old. I got my part within a week and had my dryer back together. It works like new. Thank you

Took a putty knife and released top clips. Tipped top back , and took out 4 screws holding front cover in place. Lifted out drum, replaced bearing plate. Removed 2 screws and replaced back panel bearing. Placed drum back in place, installed front panel, snapped top back in place and job was done. Very easy. Took about one hour.

replaced rear drum bearing kit. Watched video made it real easy. The only problem was getting the belt back on the pulleys.

Followed video instructions, easy installation. Unfortunately it didn't fix the problem. Plan to take back off and check belt, etc before ordering another part.

First I took the drum out of the dryer. This was an easy tear down. I had to remember 2 wires, and a belt assembly ( 2 pullies ). I removed 3 screws inside the drum to release the bearing assembly from the back. Then I went to the dryer chasis and removed the mounting bracket by removing 2 screws. I simply replaced the mounting bracket with the new one. This required having to use a magnet to hold a small ball bearing in place while I worked the rest of the pieces in position.I greased it up and went back to the drum. I replaced the old bearing assembly with the new one. Easy. I took the time to shop-vac the inside of the dryer. There was a lot of loose lint, candy rappers, coins, etc. Finally, I put it back together. Unfortunately, this is the forth (4th) time I've had to do this. It's cheaper than buying a new dryer. Now, I've got to fix the washer.

UNPLUGGED the dryer!!! Search this site they have instructions for many of the tasks they sell parts for... disconnect the vent hose, removed the access panel for the motor & belt (rear) (1/4 nut driver), slipped the belt off the idler pulley and motor pulley, carefully lifted the front edge of the top panel & rotated it back on the hinges, labeled and removed the door interlock wires (2), removed 4 screws securing the top of the front panel (5/16 nut driver) (magnetic is best), removed a yellow guide also attached to the top of the front support (5/16 nut driver), rotated the top of the front panel clear of the drum opening (while supported) and lifted the front panel off the bottom guides, carefully lifted the back of the drum straight up about an inch while supporting the front of the drum, remove the drum from the opening created by removing the front panel (the belt should come out with the drum, removed the rear parts of the new bearing (atteched to teh back of the dryer) 5/16 nut driver... you will need a helper to catch the ball bearing holder on the exterior back of the dryer in the middle, unscrew the drum half of the bearing assembly from inside the drum (3 phillips head screws). I have done this several years ago and you will be amazed at how much dust and lint there is... CLEAN AND VACUUM EVERYWHERE AND THEN ALL THE PLACES YOU MISSED DONT FORGET THE VENT HOSE. Clean all of the old grease from the back of the drum and dryer. Installation is the reverse of removal. Don't forget the new grease and DON"T loose the cute little ball bearing that comes in the new kit. There are lots of sharp metal edges inside so use caution and hopefully you got a new belt since belt replacement requires all of the same steps except for the actual bearing removal.

I can attest to this system only on my model since this is the second bearing I have done.

Sure beats the cost of a new dryer!!! Thanks PARTS SELECT This is the 5th appliance I have repaired for freinds and family with parts purchased from your site.

As all others have said, without being redundant, I'd view post #1 or #2 for a good detailed set of instructions.

The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.

Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.

Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)

Super simple pushed in the new receiver and boom all good and working

First of all, I've purchased a belt from local service center that cost me more than $21 (local tax is 8.5%). But, I can not find the idel pulley assembly so I searched on the Internet and ordered from PartSelect.com.

Surprisedly, my order came just one day - they must cross-ship from local distribution that it's even faster than to get those in local stores (driving .. and hope they have what I want ..).

I've replaced the belt 2 days ago - it's easy with 4 screws removed to pull out the front door. The back panel is opened with 2 screws remove, and very easy to replace the pulley.

It's a heavy duty gas dryer made in 1989 and this is the third time I changed the belt and the first time to change a new pulley. I would recommend to change the idle pulley because I may not need to change the belt if I have had replaced it last time. A broken or not functional idle pulley may damage the belt in a short time.

Appliance such as gas dryer like mine will last forever with replaceable belt and pulley. I'm really happy to see a working dryer (almost 20 years old) and my wife is asking a small component for her washer .. that I think I can easily fix that too .. with the help of PartSelect search.

Hope this will help.

John

took apart and replaced parts easy to do but no one in my town can get me parts. thay want 100.00 gust to come out and look at it so found parts online and thats that

Literally pop it in the small opening. Super easy and works perfectly now!