DDB1501AWZ Admiral Dishwasher - Instructions

Having read some of the other stories on this site, and not really sure what subpart was ACTUALLY broken, I ordered the latch assembly rather than the latch - and as another user mentioned, it's actually cheaper. I

Installation was an absolute breeze - the drill/driver is just added hedonism - but if you are going to use one, make sure it has a variable clutch so that you can put it on one fo the loosest settings to avoid stripping the screws.

I open the dishwasher door and held it open with a heavy pot and removed the screws (about 14) around the edge of the inside panel in the door.
The panel lifts way easily (if you remove the pot). The panel is attached to the latch assembly by two wiring harnesses - make note of which goes to which, they ARE IDENTICAL and you will not be able to tell them apart later.
I just lifted the broken assembly out, and fished out the other shards
Next, after repeated attempts to remove the harness from the switches in the assembly and failing, I just swapped the old switches still attached to the harness into the new assembly.
Place the assembly back in its slot, the panel fits back on fairly easily, drive the screws back in without stripping, and enjoy the silky feeling of a latch that shuts again
Enjoy beer

I pulled the unit from under the counter. the springs and cables are on the front sides of the dishwasher. I moved the insulation removed the broken spring and cables and replaced them with the new parts. just one side was broken, but I replaced both while I had the unit out.

The initial repair was more involved due to figuring out how to get at the problem. A foam sealer strip located at the bottom of the inner door had lost it's seal. I first sent off for one and it was of relatively thin material. It was carefully installed but still leaked. I ordered another one from Part Select and it had thicker foam. It was installed right over the previously installed strip and made a tight seal. (knock on wood)

It was very simple. After disconnecting the dishwasher, I pulled it out from it's space under the cabinet and turned it over on it's side. The pump twists into place and is held by two small bolts. It's very easy to get to and nothing else needs to be taken apart or disconnected. Used some silicon sealant to hold in place after replacing the pump and waited 24 hours to run. The pump was the problem and the dishwasher now runs fine.

Removed plastic lining from dishwasher door with torx screwdriver, then removed screw holding door latch assembly in place. Removed existing switch from door latch assembly and replaced.

This switch was not the correct one initially as it was a normally closed switch, whereas the existing switch was a normally open. Was able to pry open the switch and switch the contacts to normally open so it worked out in the end. Would recommend purchasing the complete latch assembly w/ switches if you aren't comfortable taking the switch apart.

Looks like Maytag knew this was a problem. My chopper sleeve (plastic) was stripped and causing the impeller to not spin. The replacement part was all metal and was very easy to replace the old one just by removing screws. The replacement looks to be very sturdy and should last a lot longer than the original. Thanks.

I removed the screws, and unplugged the old part, plugged in the new part and screwed it back in. It was so easy it took about 10 minutes. I surprised my husband when he came home to repair it, it was finished by me!!

took the bottom spray arm & lower plastic pieces out, unscrewed the impeller & replaced it. the original impeller which holds the disposal blade down & wore down & no longer retained the blade. snap.

Replaced the door seal. Removed the old seal and gently stretched the new seal and pushed it into the channel. Snipped off about 2 inches excess seal. As far as the Inner Door Foam Insulation Strip goes, it was not as easy. To begin with, the old Foam Strip was attached to the door insulation and not the door. The attempt to remove the old Foam Strip from the insulation became cumbersome, so I just attached the new Foam Strip on top of the old Foam Strip. So far, after a few cycles, it appears that it corrected the leak.

Simply popped the new cover in. My part by the way was really easy to identify on the website, easy to order and arrived in a very timley fashion!

I removed the lower wash arm held by a single center plastic coated nut with pliers.

I then removed the six pump housing screws and the three filter cover screws.

This allows access to the pump impeller which is held by one screw. Once it is removed the filter plate, chopper and motor seal can be removed.

I actually had done this before to find a noise. At the time I noticed the impeller had become shorter due to plastic breaking off the impeller. It still fit the motor shaft so I just cleaned out the plastic and screwed it back on. I did not check for water leakage until I noticed loose flooring material a couple weeks later.

This is the mistake I made. The impeller is made so it presses down upon the motor shaft seal expanding it to seal out water. Because the impeller was missing the lower skirt it was too short to but enough pressure upon the seal to stop leakage.
Never use a impeller which is damaged in any way.

Due to this error I have had to buy a motor assy also. It was destroyed by the water.

Removed all the screws on the inside door panel,then I removed the old latch assembly and two electrical plugs. Next I installed the new latch and connected the two electrical plugs. I then replaced the inside door panel and the screws.The dishwasher now works like new after this simple repair. BE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE ELECTRICAL POWER BEFORE MAKING ANY REPAIRS!!!!

The real cause of the leak had nothing to do with the foam strip. The latch for the front loading door at the top needed to be adjusted to hold the door in tighter to the rubber door seal. This simple adjustment stopped the leak but since the foam seal was all encrusted with dried detergent from probably years of absorbing the leak, I replaced it with your new foam strip. I used a screw driver with torx bit and removed the stainless screws holding the inner door to the outer door. Once these were separated I removed the old foam strip using a putty knife and lacquer thinner. Placing the new strip onto these cleaned surfaces was the easiest part of the whole repair.

The first thing I did was read the all of repair stories that others had submitted. Then I set the timer and chucked up the Torx bit in my electric drill/screwdriver. There are 10 Torx screws on the inside of the dishwasher door and they came out very quickly. The top two screws hold the latch in place. I lifted the inside stainless steel cover to get acces to the latch. There was enough slack in the wire that I was able to remove the latch from where it was and extend it above the door. This let me lay the stainless steel liner back onto the inside of the door without removing or disconnecting the soap dispenser. Thus exposed, disconnecting the connectors from the old latch and reconnecting them to the microswitches on the new latch was a breeze. Once connected, I reinstalled the latch assembly, repositioned the liner correctly and replaced the ten screws. The entire job, including putting my tools away and cleaning up took eight minutes. I did it on my lunch break. The eight minutes included pulling the circuit breaker and reconnecting it (very important, that step). The new latch/handle assembly completely fixed the problem.

Removed screws around perimeter of interior door panel. Latch was loose at this point so all I had to do is disconnect 2 wires and reattach those 2 wires to new part, position new latch in the proper place and fasten interior panel into origianl position. That was it!!!!