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DBL333EB1WW
DBL333EB1WW General Electric Dryer - Overview
Sections of the DBL333EB1WW
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Rotary Start Switch
PartSelect #: PS268305
Manufacturer #: WE4X881
This part is used to start the dryer once you have selected a setting on the timer.
$54.65
In Stock
Knob and Clip
PartSelect #: PS268450
Manufacturer #: WH01X10060
This knob accepts a D-shaped shaft.
$19.50
In Stock
Rear Bearing
PartSelect #: PS267858
Manufacturer #: WE3X70
Bearing Only. This part helps your appliance run as quietly as possible.
No Longer Available
Rear Bearing Kit
PartSelect #: PS267556
Manufacturer #: WE25X10001
This kit comes with the rear bearing, shaft support, lubricant and other items required for the installation.
$134.25
In Stock
Drum Glide
PartSelect #: PS755802
Manufacturer #: WE03X10007
Sold individually. There are some dryers that require 2 per dryer. They attach to the outer-most sides of the bearing.
$71.28
In Stock
DRYER BEARING BRACKET
PartSelect #: PS12710145
Manufacturer #: WE13X28680
This bracket is used on the drum bearing.
$35.08
In Stock
Handle
PartSelect #: PS264332
Manufacturer #: WE01X10013
Screws are not included. Handle only.
No Longer Available
High Limit Safety Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS268202
Manufacturer #: WE4X757
This hi-limit thermostat acts as a safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating. With this thermostat, a dryer's heating element will cut out if the internal temperature reaches 260 degrees...
$73.67
In Stock
Control Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS265265
Manufacturer #: WE04X10028
This thermostat controls the internal drying temperature.
Cycling themostats continually cycle the heating element off and on to maintain a constant inner temperature. This particular cycling thermos...
$78.40
In Stock
Questions And Answers for DBL333EB1WW
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Hope
January 19, 2020
The other night my i noticed it was taking 2 cycles to dry my clothes and then the next load i noticed the dryer had never stopped so i went to check and timer was same as i set it and the dryer wasn't heating
For model number DBL333EB1WW
thank you for your question. Looking at your model information there are a few parts that you should take out and test to see which one is giving you the issue. The first parts to check in this case would be all of your thermostats and thermal fuses. You can test those parts with a multi meter and they should be reading 0 ohms to be working correctly. If those parts are fine, you should then go on to testing your heating element as well. You can also test that with a multi meter and it should be reading between 0 - 50 ohms. Something else you should also check would be your filter and ducts. Make sure there is absolutely no blockage that would restrict air flow in your appliance. If all of those are testing out, you may want to look into the Timer, because if the timer is not advancing that could be a cause. I hope that helps. You should get a reading between 2000 and 3000 OHMs or in the range of the suggested reading. Good luck with your repair.
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Kirk
December 13, 2022
is there a bearing on this model for the front of drum?
For model number DBL333EB1WW
Hi Kirk,
Thank you for your question. There is no front drum bearing listed, only a rear drum bearing. The part number listed under your model number for the rear drum bearing is PS267556. If you need help placing an order for it, customer service is open 7 days a week and anyone will be happy to assist you. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
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Common Symptoms of the DBL333EB1WW
[Viewing 2 of 2]
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Broken Knob Post
First I unplugged the dryer, then I removed the access panel on the back of the control panel. I removed the wires from the back of the switch...Here is where I messed up. I removed the switch prior to ordering the part, the bad part is the way I removed the part. When you get the new part in you will be able to see how it will be mounted
... Read more
to the control panel. I had no idea, so I did what was necessary to remove it. Needless to say, I bent the hell out of the hole that the switch mounts in. In turn, the installation of the new switch did not go as easily as I would have liked. After straightening out some metal and drowning the thing in epoxy, the new switch is installed. I hooked the wires back up on the back of the switch, plug in the dryer, and dry some clothes. Standing victorious over the dryer with beer in hand, not only did I accomplish the mission but I learned my lesson... destructive removal = BAD!
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Parts Used:
-
Jaren from Lemoore, CA
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
122 of 142 people
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No Heat!
Unplug power. Take the top off. Take front off, unplug the two wire connections. Undo belt from back access. Pull up on drum and remove. Unscrew 4 screws that hold on the element housing, remove. Reverse steps to put back together.
Parts Used:
-
Kristian from Jackson, WY
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
74 of 104 people
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Loud rhythmic squeaking
About a year ago I had to replace the front sliders. I had thought at the time that I should replace the belt and check the rear bearing, but I was in a hurry, and the wash was backing up, so I didn't do it. Oops. Within 6 months dryer started squeaking. Did I get around to pulling it out, and greasing rear bearing. Nope. Dbl oops.
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Luckily on this model, everything is pretty basic, strong, and well made. The rear bearing after 9 years of constant use (5 person family)had simply run out of grease, and then worn into the plastic housing that holds the rear bearing. NOTE TO ALL -- probably too late if you're reading this -- but just grease your rear bearing by using a grease gun with high temp grease (car bearing grease works fine)through the small hole at back of dryer dead center of drum. It will take 5 min, and probably prevent the need for this repair, or delay it substantially.
Unplug dryer, turn off gas, and disconnect gas hose and duct hose. Inspect the latter two and consider repacing while you're at it. Move dryer to where you can get at front and back without cursing too much.
So...take a putty knife, and put a little masking tape around the blade if you're worried about scratching the finish on your dryer. If you're doing this repair, your dryer is probably at least as old as mine, and you can skip the tape and just bear with some small scratches.
Slide the putty knife into the groove between lid and front of dryer and pop up. (held by spring clips)
Now tip up lid and slide back, you may have to wrestle it a bit, or it may come off like a charm. Put it out of the way.
Take a sec to look at the interior wiring (you unplugged the dryer, right?) If you see any worn or raw spots, take some electrical tape and fix. Should be fine though. Take a vacuum and suck up any extraneous lint, dirt etc.
Tip dryer up slightly and block with wood or a brick. There are two screws at bottom -- undo these. IF they're missing, no worries, they're not critical. Put dryer back down.
Get a trouble light or a good lamp and shine ti wher you can see interior of dryer. There are two screws, one on each side on the INSIDE of the dryer, connecting the side panels to the front. Undo those. Put them in a little baggie and mark them "interior fr screws." I know, you're thinking "I can just remember them." But trust me, this way, you can't lose them or screw up. Now use the putty knife to pop the front panel off the sides. Do this gently, and don't yank the front way back, as the drum will drop. Oh, on mine there was a yellow plastic doohicky in the middle at top. Take that off too (one tiny screw) put the screw back in part way and stick the doohicky in the baggie.
OK, so the front panel should now be loose. It is still on a couple of little tabs at the bottom, which you prefer not to bend. So lift the front slightly and then back it out, while you (or preferably a helper) holds the drum so you can let it down gently. The front is attached to all sorts of wiring. You don't need to disconnect ANYTHING. THe front should be able to be moved away to the right like a door. Rest this up against something so as to not strain the wiring. On the front of the door are the felt and plastic sliders. If they look beat up or worn, replace them now -- or like me, you can do the job twice... That part is super simple...
Now, got back of dryer, there is a vent at back bottom. Remove three (or less) screws) and remove little door. Probably substantial lint here. Vacuum like crazy. The belt comes down around the drive pulley, and then up and over the idler pulley (to keep tension on belt. IF this feels loose/easy to move, replace the belt. In fact, if the belt is over 5 years old, replace the belt. (or when it breaks, you get to open everything again). Just unhook the spring and the idler will be loose and you can remove the belt off the pulleys -- it's now just around the drum. Slide the idler pulley off the stem
Luckily on this model, everything is pretty basic, strong, and well made. The rear bearing after 9 years of constant use (5 person family)had simply run out of grease, and then worn into the plastic housing that holds the rear bearing. NOTE TO ALL -- probably too late if you're reading this -- but just grease your rear bearing by using a grease gun with high temp grease (car bearing grease works fine)through the small hole at back of dryer dead center of drum. It will take 5 min, and probably prevent the need for this repair, or delay it substantially.
Unplug dryer, turn off gas, and disconnect gas hose and duct hose. Inspect the latter two and consider repacing while you're at it. Move dryer to where you can get at front and back without cursing too much.
So...take a putty knife, and put a little masking tape around the blade if you're worried about scratching the finish on your dryer. If you're doing this repair, your dryer is probably at least as old as mine, and you can skip the tape and just bear with some small scratches.
Slide the putty knife into the groove between lid and front of dryer and pop up. (held by spring clips)
Now tip up lid and slide back, you may have to wrestle it a bit, or it may come off like a charm. Put it out of the way.
Take a sec to look at the interior wiring (you unplugged the dryer, right?) If you see any worn or raw spots, take some electrical tape and fix. Should be fine though. Take a vacuum and suck up any extraneous lint, dirt etc.
Tip dryer up slightly and block with wood or a brick. There are two screws at bottom -- undo these. IF they're missing, no worries, they're not critical. Put dryer back down.
Get a trouble light or a good lamp and shine ti wher you can see interior of dryer. There are two screws, one on each side on the INSIDE of the dryer, connecting the side panels to the front. Undo those. Put them in a little baggie and mark them "interior fr screws." I know, you're thinking "I can just remember them." But trust me, this way, you can't lose them or screw up. Now use the putty knife to pop the front panel off the sides. Do this gently, and don't yank the front way back, as the drum will drop. Oh, on mine there was a yellow plastic doohicky in the middle at top. Take that off too (one tiny screw) put the screw back in part way and stick the doohicky in the baggie.
OK, so the front panel should now be loose. It is still on a couple of little tabs at the bottom, which you prefer not to bend. So lift the front slightly and then back it out, while you (or preferably a helper) holds the drum so you can let it down gently. The front is attached to all sorts of wiring. You don't need to disconnect ANYTHING. THe front should be able to be moved away to the right like a door. Rest this up against something so as to not strain the wiring. On the front of the door are the felt and plastic sliders. If they look beat up or worn, replace them now -- or like me, you can do the job twice... That part is super simple...
Now, got back of dryer, there is a vent at back bottom. Remove three (or less) screws) and remove little door. Probably substantial lint here. Vacuum like crazy. The belt comes down around the drive pulley, and then up and over the idler pulley (to keep tension on belt. IF this feels loose/easy to move, replace the belt. In fact, if the belt is over 5 years old, replace the belt. (or when it breaks, you get to open everything again). Just unhook the spring and the idler will be loose and you can remove the belt off the pulleys -- it's now just around the drum. Slide the idler pulley off the stem
Read less
Parts Used:
-
Mark from San Diego, CA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
44 of 53 people
found this instruction helpful.
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