DA6200 Speed Queen Washer - Instructions

Followed the video on how to replace step by step. It all went perfectly except the hose clamp needed to be replaced. Used a small screw automotive clamp.This Maytag is 35 years old and still ticking.

just like the vidio, only a had to remove the back panel to replace the valve. but we ., or should say my mother has a working wacher now,thank you for your help,

Unplugged AC cord. Removed hot and cold supply hoses. Removed front cover (2 Phillips screws near bottom). Raised lid, and removed fastening screw for injector tube. Removed retaining screws for inlet valve mounting plate. Positioned mounting plate partially inside rear of machine and removed (4) wires for solenoid connections. Re-positioned mounting plate slightly outside machine and removed valve mounting screws and old valve. Attached new valve (no modification to valve needed for my machine), and worked backwards through the steps listed above.

Remove the front panel by removing the screws at the bottom of the panel; remove the screws holding top and swing back on hinges; loosen the screws on the back holding the valve and replace the valve following how the defective one was attached and then reverse the operation.

Repair was pretty simple, as I was able to access the valve from the rear of the washer without having to remove any large panels. All I had to do was disconnect the water supply hoses, and remove a small cover at the rear of the washer (the valve is mounted to this cover). Cleaning the electrical connectors, which were lightly corroded, took longer than anything else. Replacing the valve with the new one was just a matter of making sure the electrical connections, and the hot and cold water supply hoses were attached in the same places as the old installation. There is also a water outlet nipple on the top of the valve which had to be connected to the inlet hose, and I replaced the old clamp with a new one, which I believe is always a good idea. Two screws attach the valve to the cover, and two more screws attach the cover/valve assembly to the washer.

Be very, very careful not to cross thread the filler hose, onto the nylon valve housing. Recommend some lubrication, and a pair of velvet gloves.

Same technique as the PartSelect video, except the result leaked to the outside at the outlet port because the two halves of the mold that made it were slightly misaligned, and there were two steps, one on each side of the fitting. Filed the steps away, and used Evinrude gasket sealant to make sure it wouldn't leak, and it didn't.

My husband did the repair. Since he owned a laundry quite a few years ago, he knew what he was doing. After hooking everything back up, the cold water was coming in hot. When hooking up the hoses, he had hooked the cold into the top intake. After watching the online video, he realized that the plate that was to be installed over the hoses, on the back of the washer, clearly stated "H" on top and "C" on the bottom. So we switched the position of the hoses and everything ran perfectly after that. I would suggest to ANYONE doing this repair, to watch the online video first, before starting, because it is very, very helpful.

Shut water off and unplugged. Used channel locks to remove hoses. Used nut driver to remove mounting plate. Disconnected electrical connections to solenoids. Broke one. Had to replace. Used nut driver to loosen fill hose. Rusty and broke. Cut hose. Used new clamp to secure fill hose to fill solenoids. Stripped and crimped on new connector and replaced electrical connections as they were removed. Reinstalled hoses and plugged in. Tested A-OK.

The most important part of my repair was watching the video that was sent to me with my order confirmation. After I viewed it, the rest was easy. The only hard part was moving the washer away from the wall!

I ordered the part. Watched the video and did the repair. I removed the cover plate on the washer, removing the screws. I then, removed the broken water inlet valve and replaced it with the new one. I placed the cover plate back onto the rear of the washer and "VOILE", it was done. I am a divorced mother of three, who has never attempted to do any type of home repairs, however, the way PartSelect has set up the website, it made it easy to determine what part I needed and provided me with a video which gave me step by step instructions on how to repair it. I even posted my victory on Facebook! Thanks PartSelect.

First check that the screens are not plugged. There are fine screens in the mixing valve and at times you will find them in either end of the inlet hoses. Not a hard job if you can get to the back of the machine, just a few small screws, swap the wires to the new part and swap the outlet hose from the valve and screw it back together. Wife will think you are a wiz kid.

Removed hoses and inlet valve from washer, replaced inlet valve by attaching the electrical connectors, reattached new water lines, returned inlet valve to its place in rear of washer. Checked for leaks, washed a load of clothes, everything worked properly.

Disconnected the electric plug and removed the water hoses from the washer. Took off the old water inlet valve under a plate on the washer and hooked in the new one. As we dismantled each section of the valve hook-up we connected that area of the new valve to be sure we got it connected correctly.

Maytag made this easy. The water value was mounted to a plate on the back of the washer removed one screw, pulled the plate from the washer, removed the valve, reconnected the electrical connections and outlet hose, re inserted the plate, attached with screw and tested. 30 minutes tops and I hwve never done this before. Thanks to partsselect and others for recomenning the correct repair. Others had suggestjng the timer device ($180 +) for the parts. OUCH !!!!!