CS5100XWN0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

I removed the bottom access panel, with 2 hands i reached in behind the blower, i released the belt, i used a screwdriver to pop the retainer from the pully spindle, i removed and replaced the pully, i snapped the retainer back on and replaced the belt. I made sure the belt was on track and all was good. I put the bottom panel back on, it took all of 5 minutes. The hardest part was the retainer clip faces the rear of the dryer so you have to feel it. Also , the space is tight, use a smaller flathead screwdriver to get behind the clip, it will pop right off.

I replaced the thermos fuse, thermostat, igniter kit, and the M series
new style coil kit. The problem was the M series coil kit. I replaced
the other parts because this dryer is over 10 years old. I also brought
the radiant flame sensor. I spent $126.19 in parts plus shipping. If I just
just replaced the coil kit it would have 18.61 plus shipping. A new gas dryer like I have would cost about $459.00. I hope to get many more years out of this dryer. The hardest part of this repair for me was getting the front panel back on. I saved the parts that were good for futher repairs. I replaced the drum belt several years ago, still looks in good shape. I think this is a great DIY site. Just follow their instrutions. Somtimes I'll take a picture of the part before I remove it, just to be sure I replace it right.

My dryer started squeaking and I thought it was the drum rollers, so I bought a set. When I attempted the repair and got as far as removing the dryer drum and I decided to spin the shaft on the motor and that was where the squealing was coming from. I put the rollers on and reassembled the dryer. One day later the motor seized up. Ordered a new motor and installed it with no problems. The nut on the back of the motor ended up being a 20mm wrench. Motor cost me $105.56 and the maintenance kit (ps37308) (2 rollers,4 clips, button clip, new idler pulley and belt) cost $32.08. It cost a total of $137.64 in repairs with no labor costs and I accomplished it in under an hour. Minor handyman skills needed or find a friend who is handy. My dryer is 14 years old and now is running like new again. I used the 50% rule, if a repair exceeds 50% of the cost of a new machine, replace it, if the repair can be done for less than 50% of the cost of a new on, fix it.

After opening the bottom access panel, I found a lot of lint build up which is very flammable. I took my leaf blower and cleaned it all out. Then I just followed the instructions that came with the part. But be careful as the igniter is fragile. I broke the first one...

Two Phillips screws, and 2 5/16 bolts and the dryer is open for this repair. Remove the drum and note the placement of the drive belt. Then using a pipe wrench grab the rear plastic fan housing, at the rear of the motor shaft, and turn the front of the motor shaft CLOCKWISE. If the Fan is ceased (as it was in my case) you will need to use locking vice grips (at least 3 or 4 between the fan blades to stop the fan blades from turning on the rear shaft.) while your turning the front of the motor's shaft. If done properly, you should have about 25-30 turns before the motor is free for replacement.
Once this is accomplished, mounting the new motor back into the dryer is a simple matter of reversing your steps. But keep note of the belt placement and the motor wiring placement before starting.

Watched youtube video to problem shoot. Cause determined to be coils bad. Searched web found Parts Select to be easiest site to deal with and had coils for best price. Followed instructions supplied with parts. Dryer works like new.

I followed the instructions on the video and it was simple. The hardest part was vacuuming out 32 years of lint from around the motor and igniter. I was lucky there was never a fire in the dryer.

Very easy do it yourself repair, and saved at least $300.00. I watched a video and it took me less than 20 minutes to complete repair. Part fit perfect and I have already ordered another to keep as a spare.

My gas dryer would run with heat for 5 minutes in all settings, but kick off and not heat again. Timer would not advance in autodry. Thought it was the cycling thermostat, so replaced that, but did not solve the issue. Ordered the coils, and cleaned out heavily clogged lint from bottom of lint trap, especially right above the fan motor at the bottom of the trap. Received the coils, opened the top and front, took out drum, and replaced the coils. The replacement took less than 2 minutes. Be careful putting the drum back on to make sure the felt is not caught inside the drum. You can give it a spin to make sure. Wear gloves, as I cut myself up pretty good on the edges of the dryer body. The inside of my dryer looks like a crime scene! Anyway, I put it back together, and it runs great. Solved the timer advance issue in autodry, and the heat kicks on and off when it is supposed to. Good luck! Thanks Part Select!

Checked fuse with Volmeter, had continuity (acted as a short) not the problem. Disconnected Hot Surface Igniter 2 Position connector to check resistance for a range of 50-300 Ohms of resistance with Voltohm Meter. Meter read open (High Resistance). Removed Igniter by unscrewing 5/16" hex nut on igniter plate assembly and noticed silicon carbide element was cracked in the middle. Ordered a new igniter and noticed assembly was required. Be careful here as igniter element is fragile, also do not touch it with your bare hands. You have to lay down on floor to reinstall igniter assembly and you might want to practice anchoring the defective igniter to gain confidence. Finally with slow movements anchored new igniter assembly and turned on dryer. Watched igniter glow heating gas valve and heating gas flame returned. Dryer fixed for a few hours of study online and cost only $24, plus learned how the gas dryer works.

I followed the video. So easy..

Unplug dryer from 220VAC outlet

Remove bottom cover panel, slip a flat blade screwdriver into each clamp, and bottom piece becomes removable. Pull forward and lift bottom cover piece.

Pull up top section from dryer frame. Disconnect dryer door off/on contact three wire switch by pressing plastic connector together. You may need a small flat blade screwdriver to seperate connector.

Remove two Torx (T15 head) screws in the far left and right corners of the front door panel.

Remove two screws underneath dryer lint screen, be careful to not let front door and front cover fall forward. The rotating dryer drum will now be loose.

Underneath drum, there is a cover panel over the dryer motor. Likely you will find a bunch of lint all about. This dryer had likely not been cleaned in many years.

Remove screws on dryer motor cover.
Remove panel. Likely, you’ll more lint about.
After vacuuming, use a flashlight and hand mirror to locate belt tensioner, back side of motor. If your belt is not broken, press down on the tensioner spring and remove belt from tensioner and motor. Inspect belt, replace if worn. In this instance the belt was well worn.

Slowly pull dryer drum forward, walking belt along as you bring drum forward out of the dryer casing.

At this point you have plenty of room to access the one bolt holding the tensioner, in this instance it was a 13mm socket. Be careful to remove the tensioner springs before removing the bracket. Your PartsSelect is an identical match to the original one.

Install new tensioner, tighten slightly, then put springs back on.

Reverse this entire process to get your dryer back together and back running smooth and quiet as it was when new.

This dryer was quieter than its owners remembered it being back when new 15 years ago.

Well worth saving the $ doing your own work.

Good luck on your repair endeavor!

Removed the front panel, removed the tub and removed the old seal. Tub seal area was scraped, sanded and wiped with acetone to ensure a clean. Bonding surface. Applied adhesive with and acid brush to get a consistent adhesive layer without getting too much in any one place. Seal was a bit smaller than the tub circumference so it had to be stretch to fit. While the adhesive was curing , I took the time to clean the contact surfaces and vacuum the lint from inside the cabinet. Reinstalled the tub, drive belt and front panel.

Take pictures along the way.
1. Remove lower front panel using screwdriver to lift up on tabs on top of panel.
2. remove door
3. unplug moisture sensor plugs
4. remove lint trap
5. on back of dryer, remove screws holding upper lid
6. slid up lid forward just a small amount, its hooked in towards the front of the upper lid. you will need to do this so you can can remove two screws under the lid holding the front panel of the dryer on
7. remove the front panel screws mentioned in step 6.
8. Remove lower front panel screws
9. remove front panel
10. reach into dryer at the bottom and release tension from belt pulley, sliding the belt off. (make a note of how the belt is routed around the drive and idler pulleys)
11. slide out tumbling drum
12. with drum removed, use socket wrench and socket to remove old idler pulley.
13. install new idler pulley
14. reinstall tumbling drum
15. slide belt back around tumbling drum, looping belt around drive pulley and around idler pulley.
16. When belt is installed, rotate drum a few revolutions to ensure belt rides correctly.
17. Reinstall front panel
18 slide top panel back into place and secure with screws from back
19. reinstall door
20. reattach moisture sensor plugs
21. reinstall lower panel

You tube and supplied video directions for the make and model. Follow step by step and the repair went easy. Worried when removing the dryer drum but it went smooth.