CGS3760ADW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

I replaced the Dual Oven Safety Valve and that didn't fix it. Turns out that even if the igniter glows it still can be the problem. Since the igniter is in the circuit of the Dual Oven Safety Valve, each igniter is responsible for their half of the Dual Oven Safety Valve. Apparently as the igniter ages the ohms of the igniter go up reducing the voltage below the 3.3V to 3.6V necessary to open the valve (bi-metal strip wrapped with cal rod wire inside of Dual Oven Safety Valve). Once the ohms go up and the voltage goes down no gas is released from that half of the Dual Oven Safety Valve. So it will appear that the Dual Oven Safety Valve is bad but that is not the case. It will be the Igniter corresponding to the burner that is not lighting.

removed oven door and shelves and lower pan and replaced igniter

I removed the sensor from the oven using a philip screw driver. The sensor was removed by removing the two screws holding it in place in the upper left hand corner of the oven. I had to disconnect the sensor on the back of stove. Then I pulled the old sensor through the hole inside the oven. Then I installed the new sensor by putting the wire of the sensor through the hole where the old sensor was removed. Then I hooked up the wire in the back of the stove. Then took the screw driver and replaced the two screws holding the sensor in place. It was very easy to do and the oven is doing fine now.

Cut off the electricity at the junction box. Removed two screws from the sensor at the back of the oven. Then pulled the sensor with the wire out of the installation hole in the back of the oven. Disconnected the quick connect plug from the sensor and reconnected the new part. Reversed the process and screwed the two screens back into the oven wall. Turned the electricity back on and started up the oven. (Everything ran well for about three days when the oven again signaled "F-5" indicating the oven was again not functioning properly. Restarted the oven and is currently running properly. My spouse does a lot of baking with this oven for cookies, roasts, etc. Next time it fails I will be forced to call a repairman as I believe there is something wrong other then the heat sensor.

unplugged range took the oven racks out removed bottom plate, removed 2 screws from the igniter, wiggled the connector out of the hole, unplugged the connector. reconnected the connector reattached the igniter and put the plate and racks back in plugged the range in and it works just like it should. took about 15 mins. easier than I expected.

the repair was not difficult ,take time cause back panel has to be removed to gain access to unplug the temp sensor ,it appear to work but the digital clock still flash not all the timebut it should not flash , not sure that i have fixed it

Removed glass and then two screws to remove metal plate pulled out socket,disconnected two wires and installed new socket.

I turned off the gas supply and unplugged the power source first. Then I removed the old igniter, by removing the plug wire clip from the back of the stove. I then removed the oven door by simply sliding it up and off the track. Once the oven door was removed I could easily access the igniter after removing the heat shield at the bottom of the stove. I had to remove two screws that mount the igniter. I had a little problem removing one screw, because it was stripped, so I had to use my Dremel tool to cut off the screw. Once it was removed the igniter was easily replaced with the new one. My wife and I was really excited that the fix worked! Saved me hundreds of dollars. Money I used for the holidays. Thanks Part Select!

There are five Phillips head screws to remove from the door (2 top, 3 bottom); the only touch part is that there are no screws on the sides, but instead plastic tabs on each side that "latch" inside the door frame; you have to use a flat blade screwdriver to work each tab and press on the door frame to unlatch each tab (yup I broke one, not knowing the setup the first time, but it went back together OK anyway). Once the tabs are unlatched from the frame, the entire front or the door will come off (be ready for this); then, just a few screws to take off the 2nd inner door glass frame (remove second glass carefully), and your to the inner glass, which just fits within the frame. Then, carefully backwards and the door is together again (once again, provide support as you take the last tab/screw off the outside of the front door, or you'll have more broken parts).