CG206L Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Repair is simple as long as you TURN OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER first. After that, take off the cover over the switches (pull knobs off, remove 2 screws and lift off the cover), pull the bad switch straight up off the gas valve, pull the two wires off the switch, plug them back onto the new switch, place it back over the gas valve stem, reassimble the cover and knobs, turn back on the circuit breaker, and verify that ignition switch works. Not a hard repair. (HINT: while you are waiting on the replacement part, you can light the bad burner by turning on the opposite burner ignition switch and using that "spark" to light the other burner.)

I did only tokeout the four tips balves like a screw 1/2 in. And replace the otherones and is it. Less than 5 minutes for all four to replace

unplug the oven and pull it away from the wall. looking at the oven from the back, the spark module is at the bottom on the lower left. there is a two piece sheetmetal cover over the area of the spark module. use a phillips head screwdriver to remove five screws and the covers come off. the spark module is the blue cube with four push on wire connectors. all you have to do is hold the new one next to the old one and swap one wire at a time. both were clearly marked with identical numbers and letters. really nothing to it. it took me longer to clean the back of the oven than to replace the module. the old module was eaton part number Y-54052-3. the new one is eaton part number Y-054052-34.

I turned off the burner and allowed it to cool. I then checked the website for the part and also got a new grease filter and grill grate. When the parts came, I plugged in the new grill burner, replaced the grill grates, and dropped the filter in place. Total time was about 8 or 10 minutes--most of which was opening the packages. The grill burner is designed so that it can be removed and replaced with a standard 2 burner unit. No tools were needed. I was glad to find the parts for my 17 year old dual-fuel range.

I removed the screws that hold the escutcheon assembly in place and lifted it from the range top. I slipped the wire connectors from the old switch and removed the push nuts. Removing the push nuts was the most difficult part. I wedged a small screwdriver under them and made enough space to cut them off with wire cutters (DON'T CUT THE POLES THE PUSH NUTS ARE ATTACHED TO!). There may be an easier way to remove them, but I'm a rookie and don't know what the easier way would be.

I attached the wires back to the same poles on the new switch as they were positioned on the old switch and pushed on the push nuts that came with the new switch to hold it in place. There isn't much room to work with so I used a small socket from a socket wrench set to hold the new push nuts in place while I pushed them on. The push nuts I received with the new switch were really too small. I forced one on, but broke the other one. I bought another slightly larger one at my local hardware store and it worked great.

I reattached the escutcheon assembly and was back in business. Overall, it took me about 30 minutes.

My husband threw a pot holder on the hot (not lit) burner grate.The potholder melted on the grate and we were not able to remove the melted fabric. We ordered a new grate and it looked so good we ordered three more. I am planning to replace the burners next. We'll have a brand new looking cooktop. The cooktop is 15 years old.

In oven I unscrewed orfice; replaced with new orfice. On stove top the people who make it sent a kit for $11.00, plus S & H. I installed it as per instructions.

1. Turn off power to the cooktop and turn off the gas. This is extremely critical. 2. Remove the knobs and then the covering. Beneath will be the valve part you need to change. 3. Find a way to mark where all the wires go into the piece that sits over the valve (mine was white with a blue ring in the center). You will see four wires going into it. You can photograph it, or you can use tape and a sharpie to write where everything goes on the parts themselves. It is likely that they will become disengaged at some point during your repair, so the step is crucial. 4. Lift off the piece on top of the valve (the valve goes through the blue hole in the center of the white piece). Don't be afraid to give it a tug, as it can be slightly stuck. 5. Find a way to get underneath the large circular plate (mine was gold colored) beneath the valve in order to remove any screws that are holding the valve in place unseen below the surface. 5. Now back above the surface: disconnect the gas valve attached to the valve. 6. Switch out the valve to the new one and reverse these steps to install it. ****7. If you are unable to get beneath the plate where the valve is attached on the underside, no worries. Take the new valve and carefully unscrew the top two screws (need a special tool from a hardware store) and similarly take off the screws on top of the broken valve. Be very careful to remove the top of the old valve slowly enough to see exactly how the inside pieces have to be put together. Essentially, you will find a spring and a small ring with three notches. The small part of the spring goes on the bottom, the larger part of the spring faces upward, and on top of that goes the ring with the three notches aligned in a certain way that's very important so that when you put it back together not only will the valve depress properly but you will be able to change the fire from low to medium to high. Make sure you can depress the valve a little bit, if not you have to readjust the ring until it's in the proper position. 8. Turn on gas and power to be sure it works. 9. Close unit. ***Note: if any of your parts accidentally dropinto the opening, use a magnetized srcrewdriver to retrieve them.

pull off old ,add new

The lids are fastened to the underside of the unit by rivets....3 to each lid.
I used a cordless drill and small drill bit to drill through the rivets to remove the old lids and remains of the rivets.
The new lids are easily fastened back using a rivet gun ( about $20 in Lowes) using small 1/8th aluminum rivets.
No real problems.
1 thing to note is that the drill bit will pass through the old rivet by about 1/4 inch before it comes up against the upper level of the BBQ floor so do not drill any deeper.The aluminum rivets are easy to drill through and you will easily feel when the rivet is drilled through.

I had an appliance repair rep do the replacement. He made it look relatively easy.
The repair man first turned off the breaker to the range and confirmed there was no power to the range.
After lifting off the range top cover exposing the burner igniters, he unhooked and removed the igniters. He opened the lower oven door exposing the screws which hold the front knob plate in position. He took those out. After loosening the knob plate he was able to unscrew and raise the inside cover which exposes the wires and the spark module.
My spark module was located in the front left corner area tucked a little under the knob plate. That is another reason why he had to loosen the plate. The replacement part was a universal part so he had to do a little work on the wire connectors but it only took a couple of minutes. Once he configured the wire ends, he was able to plug in the new spark module and put the top back together again.
The repair man knew exactly what to do and made it look relatively easy. I did not want to tackle this problem because I did not know exactly where the spark module was since some models have them in the back of the oven and the oven has to come out from the wall. Also, the wire connections had to be worked with a little and he knew exactly how to do that.
The repair man took about 45 minutes from beginning to end with most of that time spent getting to the part and putting it back together. The replacement itself took only about 10 minutes.

blower wheel was caked with dried grease clumps; replaced blower wheel, urethan foam and 3 motor isolators; blower/fan no longer vibrating cooktop.

I first had to purchase the replacement motor which was quoted from a high of $236 to a low at graingers of$100. 00. The counterman at graingers removed the blower fan from the motor for me with a special long handled allen key. I then degreased and cleaned the blower fan. I had to cut off the screws on the motor and replace the 3 motor isolators and the urethane foam around the motor. I had to thread the 3 wires from the new motor through the bx cable from the old motor and reattach the fan to the motor. Anyone wanting more detailed informatioin may contact me at:mablume@optonline. Net

removed 2 screws to access the ignitor. Discinnected the wires from the old ignitor and slid the old ignitor off. Installed the new ignitor and attached wires.

Turn off the power to the appliance. Remove the two screws from the control panel. Turn the panel over leaving all wires attached. Others have complained about the difficulty in removing the old push nuts and installing the new ones – this way worked quickly and easily for me: to get the old nuts off – take an awl and wedge it between the flat part of the push nut and the plastic mounting tab of the switch body. Pull the awl upwards until it is parallel with the mounting post. The push nuts will break, use needle nose pliers to remove the broken push nuts. Pull the old switch out noting the orientation. Place the new switch in place over the mounting posts. The new push nuts are not too small, it just takes some force to get them on (a good thing, it keeps the switch in place). Easy way to get the new nuts on: take a small nut driver that is the same diameter as the new push nuts on a straight handle, and use it to force the new push nuts onto the posts. Move the wires from the old switch to the new one. Turn the panel back over, replace the two screws, restore power to the appliance. It is a 10 minute job with the right tools.