CE3878XRB Crosley Range - Instructions
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
When the oven was turned on, F2 and F4 came on. Oven wouldn't heat.
After reading some of the repair stories, I was hesitant about doing this task. It was really very simple, I just removed the screws from the back of the stove, and removed the old element. I then replaced it with the new one and replaced the back cover. This whole task from start to finish took 10 minutes. The oven heats perfectly now just like a new oven.
Parts Used:
-
Crystal from Scott City, MO
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
9 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
F-3 error code
I removed the two screws that attach the sensor to the oven wall. Then removed to more screws in the back of the oven and took off the rear cover, diconnected the sensor connector and installed the new sensor.
Parts Used:
-
Mark from Lake Orion, MI
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
8 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Original oven light lens had cracked and broken in two.
I screwed the light lens into the socket and went beautifully. Better than the original. (I am a retired, 75 yr. old woman).
Parts Used:
-
Pat from Bucklin, KS
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
17 of 36 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The oven wouldn't heat
First I shut off the power at the circuit breaker.Then I removed the racks to make room to work.I then removed the 2 screws holding the element in place and pulled both sides out approx.3 inches.After carefully disconnecting the wires,I put the new element in to place and repeated the steps backwards.
Parts Used:
-
Richard from Wilmington, MA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Pliers
8 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Burner would only cook on high setting or not heat up at all.
Shut off power to stove. Moved stove out. Loosened screws in top and middle back of stove and removed cover. Took mental note of color order of each wire and unhooked each wire from old switch and reattached to new switch in exact order of color of wire as original. Remounted cover on back of stove and reattached screws. Turned on power and turned on burner and tested burner for heat. Turned off burner, slid stove back and bingo - done. Saved a lot of money.
Parts Used:
-
Judy from West Salem, IL
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
9 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Front left burner quit after bright flash under glass top
I ohmed out the burner element that wasnt working and found it was open. I ordered a new element thru PartSelect and installed it in the stove. I powered up the stove and turned on the burner but it didnt get hot. After a bit of testing I found that the new elements safety overtemp terminals werent in the same configuration as the original unit. I made some wiring adjustments and the burner was operating properly. Thanks PartSelect
Parts Used:
-
Brian L. from Wilkes-Barre, PA
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
11 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
oven temperature not reaching setting/temp. up and down
Removed back of stove, removed screws from sensor inside oven, unplugged connector from back of stove, pulled sensor out through oven; installed new sensor, replaced back of stove. Set the oven to bake, waited for it to pre-heat; the oven thermometer showed that the same problem was occurring, the sensor replacement didn't work.
Parts Used:
-
Ellen from Schenectady, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Oven temperature lower then setpoint.
After shutting the main valve behind stove. Removed all shelves and rear cover from stove. Unplugged the plug to the sensor. Removed the two mounting screws and pulled the old sensor out. Installed new sensor and plugged it in again. After reinstalling the rear cover and shelves, replugged in power, openned the gas valve behind the stove and tested with soapy water to make sure there wasn't ant developed leaks. Turned on oven with a test thermometer in it. Monitored operation and now oven temperature is roughly 10 to 20 degrees to the setpoint.
Parts Used:
-
Robert from Massapequa, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The F3 error code displayed and beeped during use of the oven and oven shut down.
My husband and I began to pull the oven out and I realized that it was too heavy for me to hold. Luckily we were able to get another man to help. Other than that it was easy. Also, it took us awhile to figure out which screws secured the oven into the cabinet. We saved over $1000.00 on a new oven and installation. Kudos to everyone who added their comments! They gave us courage to give it a try.
Parts Used:
-
Debra from Colts Neck, NJ
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Oven wouldn't heat
I removed the two screws that held the element in. I pulled the old element out and heard a loud pop. I didn't realize that I had to turn the oven off at the breaker to change the element. It blew the breaker and melted one of the connectors to the element. The wires didnt pull through the hole so I had to pull the oven out, take the back panel off, replace the electrical connectors, slide the wires through the holes at the back of the oven, connect the element and put it back in, now it works fine. Remember to turn the oven off at the breaker when changing the element, it could be a shocking experience otherwise.
Parts Used:
-
Marcus from Columbus, IN
-
Difficulty Level:Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
F3 code, oven wouldn't heat.
First pulled the oven out and noticed how dirty the floor was underneath. Bachelors are BAD housekeepers. Next I removed the oven door (just slides off the hinges) to make it easier to reach in and unscrew the two screws holding the sensor in place in the upper left back of oven. Screws came out easily. Then I removed the back panel by removing the six screws holding it in place. I unsnapped the temp sensor wiring connection, then pulled the probe out from the front (inside the oven). Installed the new probe by feeding the wires and connector through from the front (inside the oven) and attached it with the two screws. Then went to the back again, snapped the wiring connectors together, and replaced the back panel. Then I scrubbed the floor, pushed the range back in place, reinstalled the door, and gave it a test run. PERFECTION! Heated to within five degrees of setting. EASIEST REPAIR JOB I'VE EVER DONE!
Parts Used:
-
Shaun from Kimball, NE
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
8 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Oven would stop heating after a few minutes of operation
Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.
Parts Used:
-
John from Ashland, OR
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Pliers
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Replacement of bad switch
I marked all wires separately attaching a paper strip with tape to each connector and made a separate small chart where each wire should attach to the bottom of the switch. On this particular model there are three or four colored wires and two have both double and single connections to the same switch so the small chart told me where a single or double connector would attach even if I lost the attached taped information. Then since wires were marked separately, even if paper was lost I could still proceed with no outside help.
I had the luxury of leaving the breaker shut off while waiting for part to arrive. After arrival which was only a couple of days, I raised the stove top and let it rest on a small board maybe 1.5 feet so it would keep itself up.
The under assembly was already taken loose before so I just removed the broken switch taking all wires loose, which are already marked and replaced the switch with the new one. Gently placing each wire at its place after removing the tape for that connection. After all four wires were connected I held the switch up in place while screwing the two set screws into place. Then reattached the bottom assembly cover and then let the top down and reattached the four screws, one in each stove hole to attach the stove top to the under assembly. I then reattached one element and flipped the breaker switch on. No sound or problems so I tried the element and all is well. Reattached all elements and the project is done. PartSelect.com made this repair easy and economical. Replacement would have been 4x the part and shipping. Thanks.
I had the luxury of leaving the breaker shut off while waiting for part to arrive. After arrival which was only a couple of days, I raised the stove top and let it rest on a small board maybe 1.5 feet so it would keep itself up.
The under assembly was already taken loose before so I just removed the broken switch taking all wires loose, which are already marked and replaced the switch with the new one. Gently placing each wire at its place after removing the tape for that connection. After all four wires were connected I held the switch up in place while screwing the two set screws into place. Then reattached the bottom assembly cover and then let the top down and reattached the four screws, one in each stove hole to attach the stove top to the under assembly. I then reattached one element and flipped the breaker switch on. No sound or problems so I tried the element and all is well. Reattached all elements and the project is done. PartSelect.com made this repair easy and economical. Replacement would have been 4x the part and shipping. Thanks.
Parts Used:
-
Don from Roanoke, VA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
8 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Oven would not heat consistently
I needed to remove the rear panel to replace the sensor, but unfortunately, that was not the problem. It could have been; but also, it could have been the electronic control, or the gas control valve. This was the cheapest "trial" fix. I did talk to a "Warranty Repair Man", who said that IF it was the electronic control, because of the age of the oven, (13 years) the part would not be available and would need to be fabricated by the manufacture. Even then the cost would approach the cost of a new oven. So, we abandonded the idea of repairs to this one. I guess 13 years is a bit to much to expect of a machine this day and time. Things are made to use-up and throw away. Such is life ! !
Parts Used:
-
Leland from Orting, WA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The bake element broke at the rear causing a minor electric flash inside the oven
You guys had a installation video which help greatly. I did run into a couple issues. Firstly, it didn't see a plug for the oven so I shut the power down from the panel. Lastly, disconnecting the old bake element from the electric insert at the ends was a bit challenging. The element and the inserts looks as if it was one piece but eventually it pulled apart. Installing the new piece was very easy. You want to consider adding additional legs under the bake element closet the area where the element connect to the oven inserts. When my old element broke and failed, the live piece can in contact with the floor of the oven causing a flash. It was a bit scary.
Thank you very much for your expeditious shipment and your follow up. Great job!
Thank you very much for your expeditious shipment and your follow up. Great job!
Parts Used:
-
richard from Inwood, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!