CDB1500AWW1 Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

Docking station just pops out, you grab the right side and pop it off. Replace by placing the left side in place and then push the right side until it snaps in place. VERY easy.

The gaskets were worn out and that was allowing a lot of water to escape, not enough pressure to clean the dishes.

The old docking station seals were getting very soft. To put a band aid on the wound until the new docking station got here I put a sleve on the washer bar feeder tube. This made an improvement. The docking station was removed using a screw driver to unsnap the station. Then all I had to do was snap the new one in. Be care ful not to pull on the piece the docking station is snapped on to. There are metal clips behind there that hold that water delivery tube on to the back of the dishwasher. Those clips are twisted on and can be striped off easily by pulling strait towards you. If that happens you must secure the clips using self tapping screws and a water proof sealent.

Remove screws holding the inside of the door. Set lid aside. Pull out the old foam insulation. Clean the area. Replace with new foam insulation. Put door back together.

I have done two repairs, and both times PartSelect.com came to the rescue! The first repair was a few years ago when the dishwasher would run but nothing got wet. It made all the right noises except the sound of water being thrown around, because no water was being pumped! This resulted from a cheap plastic "chopper" assembly that stripped and wouldn't drive the impeller. PartSelect sold me a solid metal replacement part for under $10 and that fixed the problem for several years.

Recently, we had a different problem where the dishwasher completely haulted and the wash motor wouldn't run. This was caused by a faulty impeller, another cheap plastic part. The wash impeller fragmented around the drive shaft to where it sat uneven and thus created too much resistance for the motor to drive it. I removed the impeller, superglued the plastic parts together so that I could then wrap them in copper wire (about 1mm diameter), and then I hot-glued over the copper wrapping to secure the entire thing and to help keep water out of it. I did this so that we could wash dishes while we waited for the new impeller. Well the new impeller came several days early and so far I have just been too lazy to go remove the makeshift part. I figure it will fail sooner or later and then I will install my new part which should give me at least 9 more years of trouble free washing!

Remove screws holding the existing white panel. Once that panel was loose, there are several screws internally that have to be taken out in order to fully remove the panel. The new panel is then installed by putting it in place and reinserting the screws. It is an easy"fix" to change the DW to match other stainless steel appliances. You do need to be careful to make sure the door springs stay attached.

After only 2 years, the Amana dishwasher door began to stick severely. If finally stuck so bad that I had to break the handle to get the door open. The replacement latch and handle fit perfectly and it only took a few minutes to get the screws off of the inner door panel to access the broken latch.

First, shut off the circuit that the dishwasher is on. Remove the 10 - 12 screws that secures the inside waterproof panel to the door. There are two electrical connections are either side of the handle (latch assembly) that need to be removed. No need to disconnect any other connections or reservoirs. The handle comes right out. Seat the new one in door front opening. Reconnect the electrical leads and reseat the interior panel. I would put in the 2 screws are either side of the handle first; then the 2 at the bottom on either side and then the remaining. This is a very easy DIY job.

After receiving the latch assembly, which arrived rather quickly, I found the handle itself was not enclosed in the package. Therefore this repair was delayed and after several calls to the 1-800 number I was informed the company had discontinued the distrubution of the handle. They offered a full refund, however I'm still waiting for the return labels so as to ship the latch back.

Now on the brighter side, the company representative put me in touch with a local distributor that did carry the latch/handle assembly as one piece and for a lot less money.

For those who are attempting the repair, don't worry, It was very simple. Just remove hex screws, lift the inside panel, unplug the two connectors and insert the new assemply.

Must say my wife was very happy to have the dishwasher up and running again.

Good luck !

I'm telling this story for my husband who is a pretty handy guy--I watched him do the repair. I had had someone out to look at the dishwasher and they said it would be $284 to fix this one little thing because you couldn't buy the one little part separately, you had to buy a whole new motor. Since the dishwasher is old, it didn't make sense to invest this much in it--might as well buy a new one for that kind of money. My husband did some looking around and found the part on your site and installed it himself. So the cost was under $40. The dishwasher is now working better than it had been for a while.

Turned off water at the shutoff valve. I did not turn off the power, but it is recommended you do so. I pulled the dishwasher out from under the cabinet and used a car jack to lift the front off of the ground. Disconnected the water supply and the rubber hose that fills the dishwasher tub. There are two 7mm screws that hold the water pump to the frame. If you do not have a 7mm socket, the easiest thing to use is an interchangeable screwdriver. When the screw bit is pulled out, the empty screwdriver is a 7mm. Used adjustable wrench to remove the brass water port for the supply line. Teflon tape to all connections and hooked everything back up. My supply line was old and was leaking, so I had to run out and get a new one, so that added about 30 minutes to what would have been maybe a 20 minute repair.

The repair went easy. Just unscrewed the inside door panel and latch assembly. Then put the new one in. The only bad thing was I purchased the latch assembly with out the handle and found out mine was cracked. I looked back on-line and couldn't find just the handle. Everybody sold it with the latch assembly. I thought I would save the 2 bucks buying the assembly without the handle. But in the end the door seals tight and no water leaks.

Removed the old one....slid in the new one.

UNSCREWED THE LOWER PART BY PLIERS AND HAND. COULDN'T UNDERSTAND WHY THE LOWER
PART WAS AVAILABLE BUT THE UPPER SPRAY ARM
WAS NO LONGER AVAILABLE WHEN THEY BOTH GO TOGETHER..

I removed the screws around the top and halfway down the sides of the inside of the door. I found that you dont have to remove all 10 screws to access the assembly. Reach in and pulled out the assembly, there was enough slack to pull it out above the door. Pull the connectors off and slide the new ones on. Set the new assembly back in place, insert the 2 top screws first, and then the rest. That was it...very simple to change.

Removed ~12 screws holding the inside liner onto the door. Pulled off the two connectors (one with black and one with white wires). Replace the handle and latch mechanism. Redid connections and replaced screws. Viola. (Be sure to buy BOTH the handle and latch mechanism- I don't see how you could easily install the handle on the mechanism myself, and what broken in my case was the black handle).