CAV2000AWW Magic Chef Washer - Instructions

I tilted top cover to remove front washer panel removed suspension springs to remove complete tub assembly to gain access to bottom. Drive pulley to remove snubber ring I performed the repair step by step as per your video. was dead on made the repair go smoothly. I installed the belt last tilting washer mechine back to gain access to undercarrige just walked belt on all three pulleys self adjusting then. made sure washer was level. Front to back side to side no rocking in any deriction My wife did four full loads problems gone I think all needed to be done to complete repair snubber ring , washer drive belt, & leveling machine all played there roll in putting washer back in factory working condition washer not a angery walking vibration nightmare

Removed inspection panel on rear of washer. Pump right there. Removed inlet and outlet hoses with pliers on squeeze clamps. Three 3/8" size self tapping screws were removed and old pump came right out. Reversed process with new pump from this site that fit perfectly. New pump was an upgrade factory part that mounted inside washer without a mounting plate as the old one did.

Studing the numerous notes under the parts listing, help me determine which parts to purchase and replace. These listings also helped me to do the repair with much ease. Once the front and rear panels were removed, I detached the springs which came out very easily. I then pulled out the tub and removed the pulley and loosened the screws holding the snubber which then came out. Put in new snubber tightened screws, replaced pulley & put tub back in place. The springs were a little tougher which led me to believe the old ones were streched. I used a towel to brace tub to one side so as to attach spring on the low side. Used Vice Grip pliers and could not phathom using anything but. Put everything back together and washed a load of towels. The tub was way more stable, but still, towels were little damp. Respun and they dried. Determined that the repairs was all good but told wife not to put so many towels in at once which is probably why the snubber & springs wore out.

We had a repair guy come in and he said fixing the pump would cost at least 250. I called my dad and he walked me through it over the phone. I took off the back of the washer, and laid the washer on it's side. I then had to take a break as I had flooded my kitchen. (Lay the washer at an angle.) The belt was taken off by the repair guy. I then undid the hoses, taking the clips off with pliers. Next I screwed the new pump in, and put the hoses back on. FInally I took the belt and stretched over the two small pullies, and then pulled it to the bottom of the big pullie and started spinning it until it wrapped itself all the way around. It wouldn't have taken over an hour but I had a baby who needed me ever couple of minutes.

I used a needle nose pliers to release the turning mechanism from the piece left broken on the timer. Once removed, I simply clicked on the replacemnet part. It was super simple. I love that I can do most things myself with the parts, and not have to pay the expense of hiring a repairman.

I took the washer into the garage, removed access panel from back. Spun drive belt. This located the trouble with the pump. I removed pump with three sheet metal screws and hose clamps. Upon delivery, I notice the two pumps were not identicle. I called Cust Serv. They assured the difference was ok. I installed the new pump with three screw, put the belt and panel and hoses on and ran a test load of my junk clothing. No trouble.

disconected water lines unplug power and took drain pipe off, used putty knife to open top of washer and pulled off front removed pannel off back pannel, disconnected water level tube,using vise grips took off springs and pulled tb out used 5/16 socket to loosen screws just enough to pull snubber ring out replaced with new one reversed prosses in putting it back to geather

We replaced the valve in the washer that feeds the hot and cold water to the wash/rinse cycles. The replacement was not simple only because you have limited space to work in as the back of the machine does not come off other than a small door in the back or by removing the top. We elected to work in the small space but were able to replace the part within a short period of time and the washer is now working again.

Followed directions from video on your site. It was very helpful. The snubber ring fixed the problem.

Popped the top of the washer up and on the right rear of the washer was the valve. Disconnected the hoses and removed the screws, drop the new valve in and replaced the hoses and it was done. Total time was less then 5 minutes. Any one can do it!

The hardest part was finding the model # on the back. I couldn't move the washer out...so used a mirror! I used a putty knife to pop the 2 fasteners securing the top. Tilted it up & proped with a plastic clothes hanger. Unscrewed the one screw which is easy to get to with the top up. Replaced the hinge with the 1 screw. Closed the top. Gave the broken hinge to my wife as an early Mother's Day present.

First I lifted the top of the washer to get access to the screws that held the hinges in place, unscrewed them, removed the broken hinges and put the new ones on, replaced the screws and closed the top. It was very easy. I was amazed that I could still get replacement parts and at such a great price, less than $15.00 with shipping!

Removed the screws on the back plate pulled the hose clamps off removed the belt and three screws off the pump went back just as easy and the machine was like new again. If only all repairs was this easy!

First, I unplugged the washer.

then, I used a small prybar to pop open the front top of the waher. It's hinged at the back top edge. I drew a rough sketch of the four color coded connecting wires so I could disconnect the old water inlet valve and replace it the same way with the new one.
( just in case I lost track of which wire went where.)

I cut off the water supply for both the hot and cold water, (you can also cut off the water main,) then diconnected the supply hoses--noting where the hot water was connected, and where the cold water connected. Maytag had cut out a "C" and
a "H" our of the back wall of the washer,
to assist with hose installation.

I unscrewed the two hex nuts holding the old inlet valve to the back wall of the washer. ( from the outside back of the machine.) and pulled the old inlet valve up to the top of the machine. I didn't remove the basket that holds the laundry, so it was a kind of tight workspace.

Once you reconnect the wires to the new water inlet valve, attach the inlet valve to the washer wall, and reconnect the hoses, it's done. It's pretty simple.

Pretty simple repair--popped the fabric softener cup off of the agitator top and took out the bolt that secures it to the assembly. Removed the broken agitator top, replaced with the new one and reinstalled the bolt and softener cup. EZ as pie for only $24 including shipping! Great price!

Fabulous turnaround time from www.partselect.com. I had the problem corrected inside of 4 days using standard shipping. I will definitely do business with them again!