CASE7073LR0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

When I described the noise to a YouTube appliance diagnostician, I was directed to check the felt seals front and back of the rotating drum for wear, tears, or foreign objects. As it happens the felt seals looked find and there were foreign objects so, not wanting to disassemble and reassemble the dryer more than I had, I ended up replacing all the replaceable moving parts that I considered possible culprits: The idler tension spring, the idler tension bracket (which includes a nylon pulley wheel), the drum belt, the five rubber-tipped bearings that support the drum and keep it in place, and the foam seal on the blower housing which seemed a little brittle and old, as well as high-temperature adhesive for the latter. The instructional videos here and on YouTube were extremely helpful (I doubt that I would have attempted this job at all, had I not watched these ahead of time). The most time-consuming aspect was waiting for the arrival of the parts as I didn't order them all at the same time or all from the same place (I ordered from whomever could ship me a given part the fastest. Disassembly took less than an hour. Re-assembly with the new parts in place took about the same but was a little more awkward because this appliance sits in a very narrow closet and it's difficult to ensure that the 4" flexible duct stays in place when sliding the appliance back into the closet. No regrets. Now I know the basics if this dryer needs attention in future and I also know all the parts that I can eliminate as suspects in any future maintenance (the parts that I replaced)

Removed back of dryer with electric nut driver. Lots of screws. Removed old heating element to better access wires and thermostats. Removed baffle at end and transferred to new heater element. Transferred thermostats to new element, reconnected wiring in correct order. Installed new heater element in correct position using tab to locate. Replaced back of dryer. Reconnected dryer vent. Toughest part was squeezing out of space after reconnecting dryer vent. Unfortunately, too short for my weight.

All the symptoms indicated the thermister (located in the exhaust air stream of the dryer) was the problem. Pulled the lower panel off the dryer. Took out the two lower screws holding the door panel on so I could pull the front panel out just enough to get a screwdriver on the screws holding the thermister on. Unhooked the two wires connected to it and hooked them to the new thermister(no need to observe polarity). Put the new thermister in, screwed the door panel back down, put the lower panel on and started drying clothes.

The ice maker wouldn't fill with water. The maker itself appeared to operate but the tray would not fill. I ordered the part from PartSelect.com. The website allowed me to conveniently match a picture of the part with my part on the refrig. I ordered the part and it arrived in two days. I was impressed!

I turned the water to the ice maker off, unplugged the refrig. and pulled it out from the wall. I loosened and removed two screws with a nut-driver and unplug the wiring connection from the old part by simply pulling on it with my fingers. I then unscrewed the water connection from the old part using a set of pliers. The old part was then discarded. I connected the water and electrical and remounted the new part using the two screws. It was too easy!

The blower wheel was a bit difficult, but manigable to do yourself.

By undoing the single screw which holds the sensor in place, the old one falls off. To replace: simply pop the two wires on their connections (small metal studs on the back), slide clip/wire end of sensor in place and replace the screw. You are back in business! Very simple repair that a DIY can save a ton!

The repair actually was quite easy but diagnosing the problem was another story. I found out that the dryer would not buzz and vibrate , if I just ran the fluff cycle but no heat. As soon as heat applied, the slight buzzing and slight vibrating would occur after a few minutes. I knew it wasn't the drum bearing, the drum rollers, the rubbing collar on front of drum, idle arm, belt, etc - I had replaced all of them less than a year ago. Anything I found on the internet dealing with the motor was always geared around not running or slow starting or shutting down, loud buzzing, needing a push start to start, etc but that was not the case. So I figured it was the blower housing and ordered that part. However, once I had the machine apart the blower housing seemed to be just fine - nothing obvious, everything tight. The one issue I had was removing the plastic nut with the metal insert on the blower unit that attaches it to the motor shaft which just wouldn't bulge. So I said to myself, the h*ll with it, lets get a new motor, too and remove both parts together which btw, was very easy. So that is exactly what I did. Now with new motor in hand and new blower housing in hand, I easily removed the old motor still attached to the old blower housing together and replaced both which was very easy. Hooked everything back up and no more soft buzzing or slight vibration. Now back to the problem or my guess at this point. I noticed that the rubber mounting bushing in the back of the motor which is used to attached it to the dryer bracket was funking looking - kinda soft and a bit perished. So I am surmising that once heat was introduced, it was enough to soften that bushing enough to cause the slight buzzing and slight vibration but without the heat to soften the bushing a bit, it was quiet and steady. Just a guess but for anyone that has this issue with just heat but no issue with fluff (no heat) check out the condition of that rubber mounting bushing on the rear of the motor. No where on the internet was there any info concerning the symptoms I had and I was flying by the seat of my pants. So am taking the time to get this on record in case someone else has these symptoms and finds it.

1. Loosened the 3 screws inside of the drum
2. Removed the entire back of the dryer (lots of screws)
3. Removed the old vent (there are 2 screws at the bottom that hold it in)
4. Install new vent (put the screws back in)
5. Close up back and proceed to put all of the screws back

After the part arrived, I located a pair of needle nose pliers. Then removed the broken one and inserted the new one. It was very easy.
I also noted that the new part was of a better design than the original. It should not need further attention.

I determined the problem was the fan wheel and housing. I located the part on partsselect.com, Ordered it and installed the afternoon I got it in the mail. Perfect fit.

I have used partsselect before, always had great luck, great prices, always have the exact part.

Removed the back panel and the exhaust hose.removed the heater element and changed the thermostat wire was melted cut damaged part of wire soldered and rapped with black electrical tap

This was the easiest repair ever done. Pulled out old seal/gasket and popped in new one. Took about 2 minutes. Be sure to mark where ends of new door seal (gasket) starts and ends when removing the old one.

Very easy lined the slots on the dryer door with the gasket and
pushed the small tabs into the slots of the gasket door with my
fingers - A $10 fix that would have probably would have been in
excess of $100 if we called a service repair person

EZ. Viewed you tube replacement video, EZ off and on, applied little heat, closed dryer door, good fit, heat made it fit even better

We followed a YouTube video and did the repair ourselves over an afternoon. We had one screw leftover (?) but everything went back together and now the dryer works like a dream! We bought a PartSelect part because we don't want to have to do this very often! ??