This is a replacement clutch assembly or cam kit for your washer. The clutch assembly is mounted on the drive shaft on the bottom of your washer. You may need to replace the clutch assembly if the spl...
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is...
This part is the replacement lid latch or latch assembly for your top-load washer. The lid latch holds your washer door closed, and allows the washer to run its cycle. If the lid latch is damaged, you...
The hose clamp is used to hold the water hose in place which will prevent the hose from leaking water. Sometimes the clamp may lose its ability to latch on, causing a leaking washer. For the installat...
The leveling leg locking nut is an OEM replacement fastener for use in dryers and washers. It has a head diameter of 3/8 inches and a thread pitch of 16 threads per inch. The nut secures the leveling ...
Appliance spray paint is a great way to cover up any chips and scratches that have appeared on your appliances. Instead of replacing the part entirely, this is an easy fix. This is also a great way to...
$22.68
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Questions And Answers for CAE2745FQ0
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Martin
August 24, 2021
After the spin. Water remain in the drum and the clothes are very wet. What part do I have to change
For model number CAE2745FQ0
Hello Martin, Thank you for the question. If the drum is spinning normally, this could indicate the Drain Plump is not draining all of the water from the Tub. We suggest first checking the Drain Hoses and Drain Pump to check for any clogs or blockage preventing the water from draining. If everything is clear, the Drain Pump may need to be replaced. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
Hi Kirit,
Thank you for your question. The part number listed under your model number for the electronic control board is PS12348777. If you would like to place an order for it, you may order it either online or by calling our customer service line and anyone will be happy to assist you. We hope this helps! If you have any questions, please let us know.
My whirlpool washer doesn’t spin during the spin cycle. It agitates but doesn’t spin. The water drains. What can the problem be?
For model number CAE2745FQ0
Hello Mark, thank you for contacting us. Based on the description that you have provided, we would recommend checking the drive pulley, part number PS10057144, and drive belt, part number PS12349341. We hope this solves your problem!
It fills put does not agitate or spin. It goes through all cycles drains and fills
For model number CAE2745FQ0
Hi David, thank you for contacting us. Based on the description that you have provided, we would recommend checking the shift actuator, part number PS12349319, to fix the issue. It releases the brake band from the transmission to start the spin cycle. We hope that helps!
Is there anyway to get a key to check the money box for the above Washer?
For model number CAE2745FQ0
Hi Cheryl, thank you for the question. The key for the coin box is not sold separately, it comes with the coin box. You may have to order the coin box, part number PS12578201, to fix the issue. We hope this information is useful!
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
This was a learning experience but it appears to have worked out in the end. Our 3 1/2 year old washer was not agitating much and I attributed that to a loose bolt. I would tighten the bolt and it would work ok for a load or two and then stop agitating. I would find that the bolt was loose again. I took a number of steps to try to get
... Read more the bolt to stay on tight - threadlock, a new bolt, more threadlock, and applying progressively more force on the bolt, with no better results. Yet the repair guys on you tube were saying the bolt only needs to be snug, not super tight - something was amiss. I even went so far as to secure the basket with a rope so I could use two hands on the socket wrench (please don't do this). But when I tried the washer again there was no agitation at all! I observed the agitation output in manual test mode and the bolt was turning in lock step with the shaft but the agitator wasn't turning at all. That's when I suspected that the problem was actually a worn lower agitator. Trouble was that now I couldn't seem to get the bolt off. Turning the wrench caused the shaft itself to rotate so I couldn't loosen the bolt from the shaft. I thought I broke the washer. Then I considered that maybe the shaft was rotating because the washer was in an agitation mode when I turned it off. I went back into manual test mode, made the washer spin, then turned it off. Fortunately, this worked. The shaft was again stationary and, albeit with great difficulty, I got the bolt off.
I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)
So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).
The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again.