CADG265RCL General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Removed burner, unpluged 2 plugs on coils. Removed 2 screws, replaced coils, pluged 2 plugs to coils replaced 2 screws. Reinstaled burner. Dryer works great.

Opened door and found recessed screws that screw into the top of the dry and removed them and then the front removed very easy. Then took of the plate on the back of the dryer to get to the pulley that the drive belt was on and took the belt off the pulley. The dry drum then slid out very easy, there was 2 of use which helped with the ease of getting the drum out. We replace the bearing and the idler pulley wheel. Vaccummed the lent out and then put it back together. Now it is squeek free.

I looked on the internet for instructions to take the dryer apart,took the parts out one at a time ,and replaced them.It was easy and it made the dryer quiet again.I could see the obvious wear on the parts.I was happy to save the money a new dryer would cost.

Watched a video online on how to replace the belt, it pretty much told me what to look for to get the drum out. Followed the instructions sent with the bearing kit and removed the old bearing assembly. Ran the screws supplied with the kit into the bearing assembly before I installed it. This was a tip I got off PartsSelect website. Running the screws in first is a must! Had my wife hold the assembly in place while I ran the screws in. That part of the job is the only time you need an extra set of hands. Put the dryer back together and it works like a quiet champ now.

Actually, my boyfriend did the repair by taking off the top and back of the dryer to access the drum and belt he replaced the belt and put the dryer back together
We are greatful for your service and really happy we didn't have to drive all over to find the part.

replaced rear drum bearing kit Still makes the same noise

Started with removal of rear inspection plate on rear of drier,rotated drier drum by hand to look for any visible problems. Found that drive belt with age had lost sections of teeth and every time the bad sections would go past motor they would "thump".
1. Removed belt from tensioner. Done simply by moving tensioner to unload belt.
2. Slipped belt off motor drive and moved belt to front of drum.
3. Opened drier door and removed 4 screws from under the lid or top of drier ,raised lid for access to belt once belt had been slid to front of drum.
4. (steps 4 and 5 are the hardest parts)Worked drive belt between drum and felt insulators keep in mind there are many stamped steel pieces and sharp edges can be present.
5. Removed belt by feeding a small section past felt and drum and worked rest out from frt. top of drier.
6. Installed new belt in reverse order as removal.
This was done without aid of instruction manual and by someone having major back surgery 4 months earlier. No idea how much this saved me but the price of the belt and time and effort involved made it woth my while I'm sure.

I love the Partsselect.com youtube videos. The man in those videos rocks!!! I did the repair of my rear drum bearing kit exactly as he showed me in his video and it was perfect. I have spread the word on facebook and around work about Partselect.com and friends and coworkers are already checking it out. Hey, everyone loves a good thing. I suggest that you do not be afraid, you CAN do it. Tear that baby apart and save yourself some money.

Followed an online website, removed the top, front, two rear access panels, disassembled the spring clip from the rear of the drum, took the belt off of the motor, removed the drum, took the rear bearing support out, replaced the bearing and reassembled the dryer.

It was simple to get drum out. I took all screws holding top and door out with out problems, then released the drive belt. It took some wiggling to get the drum out. I then was able to get at the rear elements. Taking the wires off the thermostat came off with a little persuasion. Removing shaft from drum took some stretching as I was doing the work by myself. I would suggest that a helper be used for the removal and replacement of the shaft. Reassembly was easy. Just reverse of the above.

Removed the top, front and lower rear section of the dryer. This being my first experience replacing a dryer belt I naturally missed the tensioner pulley first try, then installed the belt on the wrong side of the pulley and found I didn't have enough tension. After some thought and a long hard look I realized my mistake and the third time was the charm. Next time I need to replace a dryer belt it should be a snap and go a lot faster.

2 part repair. I replaced the front drum slide kit in about 20 minutes. It was better but still made lots of noise (was quiet for about 20 minutes then started back) so I ordered the rear drum bearing kit & a new belt. Replaced them when parts arrived. The video was great (the instructions with the parts were poor). However, my model had a circlip holding the bearing to the mount in the heating element & the drum did not come out until I removed the 3 torx screws in the drum & the bearing remained attached to the heating element. The new bearing kit was the one shown in the video & it all went back together easily but the belt was impossible to get on from the front. My friend helped & we removed the back access panel (had to remove the dryer cord to get the panel off). Belt was easily fitted & thus far (1/2 hour of use so far) the dryer is quiet.

Unplugged the electricity, turned off the gas, then pop open the top of the dryer. Removed the two screws and pulled the front of the dryer off. Removed the two screws that locked down the two m series ignition coils. Put it back together and all things worked great.

Very easy fix on this system as described in other reviews. Simply unplug, lift top, remove two retaining screws on the dryer face, remove face from front of drum. Locate both coils at the lower left corner of the gas valve assembly.

Popped the top... disconnected wiring... dropped the front... replaced coils... reversed sequence... done deal. No hassle, no worries, easy as 1-2-3!