BA01C Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the old fan; cut the wire and spliced in the new fan and reassembled. A little over one hour. Refrig is working perfectly now with lower settings. It is definitely off much more than on now.

just had to remove the fan motor the hard thing is getting down to it

My husband put in in, no problem and all is well. My husband is a mechanic for large machinery/motors so installation was no problem. Thanks, better than buying a new fridge!!!

The kit I recieved was perfect. All parts fit and where a perfect match. I will give you an A+ in handling my order and shocked by speed of your delivery.

The old light fixture and socket were easily removed. This was done with the power connected, but I already knew the switch didn't need to be handled. The solderless connectors are all insulated, so I just had to be careful. The new socket would not accept the connector for the "hot" (red) wire in the fridge, due to a design change. This is, of course, why you furnished a loose 3/16 inch crimpon connector. Rather than cutting the red wire (remember, the power is still connected), I obtained an insulated 3/16 connector of the opposite gender, and a short piece of red-insulated wire from an old fluorescent tube ballast, and made a jumper. The connector I provided (male) did not fit tightly in the original fridge connector, so I put a layer of resin-core solder on my male connector. You need tight connections. If the solder layer is too thick, it's easy to file down. Make sure to heat the solder sufficiently that the solidified solder is shiny and not dull gray. I used a 100-watt gun. 20 watts would probably work too. DO NOT USE ACID-CORE SOLDER OR FLUX ON ELECTRICAL WORK! I knew the switch was good, because I had checked for voltage at the socket terminals using my voltmeter, before I ordered the socket. It read 120 volts every time the door switch was open, and zero volts every time the door switch was pushed closed. A simple voltage tester would work here, too. Be very careful if you do this test or this repair with the power connected to the fridge; there is considerable potential to find yourself touching 120 volts with one hand while your other hand is touching a perfect "ground". There doesn't seem to be any choice if you want to test the switch. You do have a choice with the socket replacement - - the jumper described above. If you're not going to use the jumper approach, cut the power! If you are going to make a jumper and are not comfortable working on a "live" circuit, cut the power.

I have an Amana freeze and I followed the procedure in the video. Which is very good! However on the Amana Model there two slight differences in the procedure that I felt I needed to do. The first one is, the condenser fan bracket is attached to the Freezer chassis with 4 screws, not three. The removal and installation of the back screw by the fan is a bear. I removed the other three and it allowed me to rotate the fan slightly to get more access to the fourth and did same on installation by just starting the 4th screw and then tightening it later. The second issue was my new fan hit the housing when I spun the fan. When I looked at the old one. It had a phenolic washer, between the fan and motor which spaces the fan out about a washer thickness from the motor. When I tried to remove the old one it broke in four pieces due to age. So, I made my own with a washer that I super glued to the motor housing after carefully centering it on and clearing the motor shaft . Seemed to work with out any more noise or balance issues...Thanks, your delivery was blindly fast and video was great!

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

Moved fridge out from wall, unplugged power cord. Laid on floor, removed 6 screws from cover. Removed one threaded bolt to allow assembly to slide out. Removed special nut, and took fan off. Removed 3 motor mounting bolts. Unscrewed 2 wire nuts, and untwisted wires. (option 1, no ground) Vacuumed entire area around motor. Used 3 bolts to mount motor to holder assembly, and special nut to install fan. Stripped wires back about 3/4 inch. Twisted two wires together CW, and installed new wire nuts. Slid motor assembly back into slot,(keep wires away from blades) and used one threaded bolt to secure assembly. Reinstalled cover plate with 6 screws. Plugged power cord in to test air flow (out through cover vents). Moved fridge back into place. The loud whirring noise did not stop for a day; then quiet!

opened box,read directions,took out bad motor,installed new one.PRESTO CHANGO way to go.

Unscrewed the right control knob. Removed the left temperature control knob (there is no screw holding it), removed one screw to rear of small panel then pried open from the rear of the small panel, there are two plastic tabs in front of the small panel holding it in place. Unscrewed the failed control unit and replaced it with the new one. Replaced the small panel and screw then the left side control knob, making sure of the alignment in the "off" position as the knob has to be pressured into a clamp arrangement on the cold control thermostat. Re-screwed the right knob into place, as well.

I knew the repair wasn't difficult. It was a matter of finding the replacement part. Luckily, I found the part via the internet on your site. Lucky for me, there was an installation video!! These videos are worth 1000 bucks!! Never have encountered a site with installation videos before. It gave me complete insight as to how the job was sequenced. I'm a very visual person, so videos are the perfect helper for me. With fewer and fewer affordable local service companies around to fix problems like mine, your site gave me the complete confidence to easily switch out the condensor fan. I completed the repair for about $63.00. Your site ROCKS! Keep up the repair videos because they are awesome and extremely helpful. I felt like your pricing was competitive for this item. Thanks again!!

pull unit away from the wall, and unplug it. remove the grill, and cardboard guard on the lower back of the unit. remove Three screws for the motor bracket. Remove the bracket legs from the old motor and assemble them to the new motor. take the fan blade off the old motor, place it on the new. Cut the wires at the old motor, strip the insulation back, use supplied wire nuts to connect the new motor. Reverse order to reassemble. Plug in unit to test function.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

Mine was alittle different than the online instructions. 1. I removed the motor. 2. I took the fan off the old motor and cut the wires about 3" back from old motor. 3. Mounted the new fan on bracket and put the fan on the new motor. 4.connected wires that were cut and used wire nuts to connect. 5. Mounted bracket and motor/fan to unit and it works like its brand new. Thank you PartSelect!

removed condenser fan -located behind refrigerator next to compressor, Not much clearance to work, there are 3 screws to remove from condensing motor,sounds easy but clearance is lacking to remove them ,(takes alot of PATIENCE). Then you have to remove the fan blades to be able to get clearance to remove motor!! I wouldn't reccommend trying this repair unless you are a pro.