ATS518SW Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove 3 screws, took top hinge out, fz door and inserted shim...done.

remove 3 screws,rotate assembly,depress lock on wire harnass connector,un plug harnass.remove old assembly,remove and transfer side cover and steel wire at front of assembly,connect harnass to new assembly,rotate into place,aling screw holes and install 3 screws.flip front steel wire down and wait for about 1 hour,first tray of ice will fall..all done.

Unplugged the power, removed old icemaker by removing 3 screws and unplugging a small wire harness

Then i moved the wire harness off the old one to the new one, moved the end cover over to new one and plugged the harness back in and screwed it back in and turned it on

ALL FIXED!

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.

Instead of the ice maker unclipping from the wall after one 1/4" screw being removed from the bracket, I had to remove three of the 4 Phillips head screws from the ice bucket slider below the ice maker and swivel it down to allow the ice maker bracket to clear. The two 1/4" screws holding the ice maker to the wall at the top had to be removed and then the ice maker could be pulled away from the freezer wall. The rest of the instructions went according to the video and went well.

The refrigerator never gave me any trouble. It's at least 25 years old. It runs like new now. The gasket can be softened, gently using a hairdryer. The key is to attach the gasket to the refrigerator and use a hairdryer, going back and forth the length of the gasket. Then, to stop using the hairdryer and with the hands pull (gently) on the gasket, the length of the gasket straightening and making the gasket wider so it attaches to the refrigerator as it cools. Then look for gaps and places where air is escaping and repeat, until a good seal is achieved. This is so much better than buying new, and in 10 years buying new again with planned obsolescence.

As per instructions. Removed parts from old ice maker, and installed them on new one, Then installed it in the freezer. Works good.

, to remove the inlet tube holder/guide gadget thingee: (1) remove the three Phlipscrews from the motor end of the housing. (2) pull the housing straight off the end. (3) remove two Philips screws in deep holes that hold the ice tray onto the motor housing. (4) this frees the ice tray assembly, which you have to pull out, freeing the rotating blades, from which (5) you slide the sxle out of the middle of the inlet-tube thingee, so (6) you can then remove the inlet gadget from the ice tray.

You then reverse these instructions to reassemble with the correct inlet gadget. The tricky part is the front cover that hides the ice-tray from view. That cover has a couple of ears that have to fit into mating holes in the motor housing before you replace the two deep-hole Philips screws that hold the tighten the ice-tray assembly back onto the motor housing.

So it's too bad they don't see the ice-maker assembly with all the knock-outs inplace, so you can knock out the one you want. Other than that, it would have been no more trouble than other people have reported in working in the tight space inside the freezer compartment.

I made use of instructions for other users, see 'My ice maker has been shedding.....' and they were very helpful. The one problem not covered - the instructions that came with the new icemaker said to 'remove the bearing and inlet from the old icemaker and install in the new icemaker', but gave no instructions for how to accomplish this.

The old inlet has a square opening in the back and a u-shaped knockout in the side. The new one has a round opening in the side and square knockout in the back)

After several attempts to remove them, I gave up and used the new inlet with the knockout removed. I did not attempt to cover the side opening and it worked fine that way - no leaks.

There are basically three screws that hold the unit in place on the inside of the freezer. Removing them is relatively easy, and the unit is replaced with the same three screws. You do have to use the formed metal wire from your old unit, so don't throw it out! You also have to use the wiring harness from your old unit.

The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!

First, I removed everything from the door shelves. Next, I loosened the screws around the door, under the seals, pulled the seals out and slid the new ones into place. It couldn't have been easier. There is no need to remove the door liner. It's like having a new refrigerator.


I was surprised, when my parts arrived 3 days after I ordered them. The cost was less than half, compared to our local parts house.

First I completely emptied out all the inside of the refrigerator door to lighten the weight of the door. Then I removed the 3 screws on top of the fridge which held the door in place. It was pretty easy to lift up the door and remove it from the bottom hinge. I removed and replaced the door closure and re-assembled the door.

Unfortunately that didn't fix the issue. The door still doesn't close on it's own. The door doesn't get lifted up at all when I open it so I assume that the counterpart to the door closure within the door itself is broken.

Old ice maker leaking water and produced ice cubes with black inclusions. First, I removed old ice maker per video instructions. Transferred electrical cable, cover, and bail to new ice maker. First installation failed because I failed to make sure water tube correctly enter back of ice maker. No ice. Initially thought electrical cable wasn't firmly in place. Then I noticed frozen water dripping down back of freezer. A clue! Removed ice maker and reinstalled making sure water tube went through the hole in back of ice maker. Now the new ice maker works beautifully!

Remove the food from the refrigerator.Turn off the water and unplug the refrigerator. Remove the freezer door to permit access (It just lifts up and out) Remove the steel cover at the water connection with a nut driver. Remove the current ice maker by disconnecting the electric connection by pinching the tabs & Remove the 3 nuts holding the existing ice maker. Upon removal i noticed that the filler tube had frozen likely part of the cause of the leak. Remove the Filler tube where the water connection is located by prying with a putty knife. Remove the electrical harness and the lever arm that permits or turns off the ice maker. Install the harness and lever arm on the new ice maker. Install the new filler tube which i noticed was modified with 3 rectangular holes, from the original part, perhaps to prevent freezing up. ReInstall the water connection with the clip.Install the ice maker with the top 2 nuts loosely installed and hang the unit on the 2 nuts. Position the filler tube into the ice makeer. Reconnect the electric harness. Install the final nut at the bottom of the ice maker and securely fasten all 3 nuts. Turn the water back on and reinstall the ice maker tray, with the lever arm in the down ON position. Check for any leaks. Observe overnite to determine if ice is made and check for leaks. Reinstall the Freezer Door. While i was doing all this I also took off the bottom rear cover of the refrigerator fan motor, and removed all the dust and dirt and i also used a refrigerator coil brush to remove dust from the coils from the front of the unit.