AP47500 Whirlpool Ice Maker - Instructions

After reading the stories on your site, I figured it had to be the motor control. Easy to take off, but had to take the tray off the freezer wall to get the ice out. Once I did that it was a piece of cake. Now I have ice (and vodka tonics...).

We replaced this part 5 years ago, so we considered ourselves "experienced" at this particular job. We followed the video at your site and after some sticky removal parts, we were able to put the new motor in and finish putting the freezer back in its original shape. After a few worried hours, we again had ice. The video was easy to follow and we couldn't be happier. Thank you for saving us hundreds of dollars.

Work was done by service tech. I ordered the arm for my mom to save time when tech came back to do the job correctly.

First I did the diagnostics and thought the water valve wasn't functioning so I replaced that, but it still didn't make ice. So I went on line and found the first thing to fix should have been the module and motor assembly. It was a real easy fix because I had pulled the ice maker before to investigate what was wrong. I just removed one screw and disconnected the electrical. There were four screws holding the motor assembly on. So I put the new motor on and had ice in 30 mnutes.

First I disconnected the refrigerator. I snapped off the service door. taped closed the auto.door shut off located on the left side wall. the unit just pulled out,
disconnecting the power source, removed the plastic cover, unscrewed (3) screws and reattached the new unit . i reconnected the process in reverse.
if i had repairman do this it would have cost twice as much .

Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY

I don't know how he did the repair, but he told me it was simple, and I know it saved us a lot of money! Thank you for your excellent help and the delivery was like overnight!!
Submitted by
"The Wife"

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

I found the instructions on line which seemed very simple but I soon learned otherwise. The instructions say to remove the water line and then firmly pull the fill tube out as it is a tight fit. I couldn't get the tube out and ended up removing the lower freezer door/tray, the upper tray and the icemaker where I found the water had frozen solid in the end of the tube. I used a hair dryer to melt the ice then I could easily remove the tube. After several attempts to install the new tube I finally inserted a 3/8" OD flex tube thru the passage then I was able to slide the new fill tube over this and get it in place. I then reinstalled the icemaker, upper tray and the door/tray assembly. Turned the water on the check for leaks then plugged the unit back in and all is working well.

removed the white plate, unscrewed 3 screws and replaced the part.

Watched the video...easy!

Water Intake valve for icemaker in Amana refrigerator
We found that the icemaker was not getting water due to a faulty intake valve. The original valve had a plastic coupling on the vinyl tube leaving the valve. The replacement valve had a quick connect coupling. Replacing the valve with the new part gave a significant leak. After discussion and viewing YouTube directions multiple times, the part was returned; and a new part was sent. It also leaked.
After searching, a video was found that dealt with the no-fail quick connect. The problem was not in the quick connect but in the tube from our refrigerator which had a spring inside the last five inches of the tube. This aided the prevention of a leak when the original plastic coupling had been installed.
SOLUTION: Removing the part of the tube with the spring using a clean cut allowed the quick connect to work preventing the leak. This needs to be mentioned in the how-to videos to save others having a problem. Also, these instructions with the part would be helpful.

The longer than usual repair times shown above were the result of the spring insert in the plastic water tube of the refrigerator. Nowhere in the how-to instructions were references made of either an insert in the tube or quick connect procedures.

We were well pleased with the support rendered by the PartSelect staff.

Watched a video on YouTube on how to replace the icemaker control assembly. The video showed unplugging power, turning off the water supply, and removing the entire ice maker from the freezer. After watching the video several times, I unplugged the refrigerator but did not turn off the water supply. I did not remover the entire ice maker from the freezer, but I did remove the wire shut-off arm. After that, I pried off front cover of the control assembly. The control assembly is held in place by 3 Phillips screws; I removed the screws, removed the icemaker control assembly, replaced the assembly with the new one, replace the cover and wire shut-off arm, and plugged the refrigerator back into the wall. Had ice in about an hour (seemed the system had a little delay before deciding to go to work!).

Easy, just removed the ice dispenser and the left support for the dispenser so I could get to the bottom screw easier. Three screws held the mold in place. The bottom screw had to be removed completely, but I just loosened the two top screws and lifted the mold out away from the wall and then disconnected the wiring. The end cover snapped of easy with a screw driver. I then removed the three screws holding the motor. then pulled the motor off.(the next square part under the cover. I did this before I realized that I could use a small screw driver and stick it into the holes to remove the mold and not mess with the outer screws. After I removed the mold, I replaced the new mold into position, without putting the white forky looking part back on so I had to take the two screws out and put the part in place before attaching the motor back to the mold. Everything went back together just like a charm. The ice maker is working good, easy job. Gone golfing now.

Removed icemaker by first removing the nutscrew that holds the cover to the electrical connection in place. Next, I removed the door then slid the icemaker out and diconnected the electrical connector. With the icemaker out, I R&R'ed the motor assy , reconnected the electrical, and slid the icemaker back in place. Next, I replaced the door, turned the icemaker switch on and waited. In about 30 minutes I heard the water being injected into the icemaker, and soon there was ice. The repair was easy and inexpensive. Tx to Partselect which I found on Google.