970000 Maytag Range - Instructions
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Old burner pan warped.burner sat at 15 degree angle.
Removed burner and then burner pan.Then replaced pan and reinstalled burner.
Parts Used:
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Michael from Portland, OR
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
1 of 2 people
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Three of four electric coils won't turn on
I took out the coils manually by pulling them out with slight pressure. Then I lift the hood by first unscrewing the four screws. I have never done anything like this before just intuitive sense to locate the screws that needed to be loosened. Afterwards I remember placing something underneath like a piece of 2x4 wood block to act as support to hold the hood open so I can work on the coils. The parts I got are exactly the same as those I am replacing so I just copied the connection and voila my electric range is working like new. Well of course before I touched anything, I made sure I turned off the main switch and that nobody switches it back on without my knowledge. Thanks for providing the parts, I just saved myself from buying a $600 electric range.
Parts Used:
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Arsenio from Beaverton, OR
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
1 of 2 people
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The Problem Was That The Plug Was Gone It Fell Down Out Of The Bracket
I took the old wires and plug off and replaced it with the new block it works fine
Parts Used:
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Elnora from Brundidge, AL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
1 of 2 people
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leaking front door. loose seal.
Followed instructions, those were OK.
Dishwasher front still leaking
Dishwasher front still leaking
Parts Used:
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Frank from SANTA ROSA, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 9 people
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2 of the burners were not working arching and smoking
Time was do to the fact that I replaced two elements! I turned off the power to the braker box, unplugged the stove and removed the screw holding the element plug in, removed the part, and cut the wires where they were clean looking (not damaged by smoke or the arch) I then stripped the wire and took the new part and twisted the parts together with the caps and then put the heat shrink on and used the blow dryer on them, attached the part to the bracket and screwed it to the hood of the stove plugged the burner in, plugged in the oven and turned on the power tested it worked, did the same for the next burner and yes mind you I am a woman it was very easy to do.
Parts Used:
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Tina from Laurel, MT
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
1 of 3 people
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burned oven bulb
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.
Parts Used:
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Ivanka from Atlantra, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 9 people
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Right front surface burner did not work due to broken burner plug in wire harness.
Cut power. Removed four attaching screws and raised stove top. Cut two wires of existing burner plug. Used existing plug to select correct plug configuration from parts in kit. Attached new plug and wires to wiring harness using connectors and heat-shrink tubing supplied with kit. Used hair dryer to shrink tubing on connectors. Closed up stove. Restored power. Burner now functional.
Parts Used:
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Raymond from Rock Hill, SC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
0 of 1 people
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Worn out terminal block
Turned off the power to the stove. Removed the 'burners' and 'burner' trays. Removed the screw that secured the bad block. Lifted the top of the stove. Cut the two wires to the bad block., stripped the wires about 1/2", slipped the shrink tube over the wires. Connected the new block with two porcelan wire nuts. slipped the shrink tube over the wirenuts and heated it with a lighter. Closed the top and secured the terminal block clip with a screw. Turned the power back on: voila!
All the necessary parts came in the repair kit, delivery was timely. Very easy project.
All the necessary parts came in the repair kit, delivery was timely. Very easy project.
Parts Used:
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John from Brookings, OR
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
0 of 1 people
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contacts in plug-in block badly burned & oxidized
First I removed the one screw that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and cut the two wires...)
Assembled the block parts.
Installed shrink sleve and applied wire nuts to electrical connection to 2 wires then shrunk the sleve.
Did the above procedure for 2 heating elements.
They work very well now.
Assembled the block parts.
Installed shrink sleve and applied wire nuts to electrical connection to 2 wires then shrunk the sleve.
Did the above procedure for 2 heating elements.
They work very well now.
Parts Used:
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william from port st lucie, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
0 of 1 people
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Sparks where the heating element plugs into the stovetop
The directions were very clear. I removed the heating element, detached the plug-in block by unscrewing the screw, then cut the wires about 3 inches from the block. I put the shrink-wrap collars around the wires leading to the new block, then attached the wires to the cut ends of the wires leading to the back of the stove, using the connectors provided in the kit. I couldn't get the collars to shrink as much as shown in the picture. I attached the new block to the stove top using the screw, plugged in the heating element, and it worked!
So the instructions were good, and the heating element is now working. The only problem was the heat shrink collars that go around the connectors: I couldn't get them to shrink much, but that doesn't seem to matter.
So the instructions were good, and the heating element is now working. The only problem was the heat shrink collars that go around the connectors: I couldn't get them to shrink much, but that doesn't seem to matter.
Parts Used:
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Martin from Sayre, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
0 of 1 people
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contacts had gotten burnt out/blackened with age so burner was intermittent.
lifted the cover, unscrewed the ceramic wire fastners, put the new part in, and voila, job done and working perfectly
Parts Used:
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john from reading, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
0 of 1 people
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range top burners not heating reliably
Removed the original burner element sockets and replaced with parts provided in kit. Instructions were simple and easy to follow, problem completely solved in 20 mins!
Parts Used:
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Roy from Moore, OK
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
0 of 1 people
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Light burned out in upper oven
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Shirley from Las Vegas, NV
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
0 of 1 people
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holder burnt
First I removed the one screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
Parts Used:
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Paul from lewiston, ME
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Block broke
Unplug power cord, remove wires from block. take 2 screws out. replace with new block about 15 mins. Done
Parts Used:
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Edward from Crimora, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
1 of 4 people
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