917289630 Craftsman - Instructions

Removed old clip removed rim from tractor, removed grease fitting on rim, took hammer and screw driver knocked out old bushing turned rim over knocked out other bushing. Press in new bushings reinstalled grease fitting slide tire back on tractor, put retaining washers on then locking clip put on dust cover grease at grease fitting. Repeat other side.

Clean engine with a Gunk type product. Remove valve cover. Loosen bolts and remove old cylinder head. One bolt is located inside valve cover area. Remove old gasket and inspect and clean that surface. Attach new head with new gasket using existing bolts. Torque to 18'#s with a cross type pattern. Attach new rocker arms and push rods. Set valve clearance to .004 - .006. Attach valve cover with gasket. Check oil level. Start and let it warm up. Let cool remove cover then check valve clearance again. Replace cover.

The drive belt literally goes from the back of the tractor to the front. The mower must be removed, helps to have the tractor up on blocks to give adequate room for work on underside. Belt goes easiest on the engine first, then thread to the rear, install on the rear, (driven pulley) then on the idlers. Check to assure that it functions properly before re-installing the mower. If you have the owners manual, there is a diagram, (check your orientation, it is not clear if it is a birdseye or under tractor view) which offered some help. When replacing belt, check the transaxle front mount, mine was broken which is why the belt came off in the first place. Repairing the mount was quite a job in itself, but now works fine.

I removed the fan shroud, the carb/manifold as an assembly,turned the carb upside down and removed the fuel bowl. I replaced only one jet. Not until this moment did I discover their were two jets in this nikki carb. I now have a second jet ordered and will install it Friday,hopefully. These jets are two different part numbers as one is a left jet and the other is a right one. Be careful when opening the fuel bowl as these jets are held in their bores by small O-rings, and nothing else. The brigg's and Stratton part numbers are 791501 for the left jet and 791502 for the right.

Look on YouTube for video's on how to replace a Briggs governor. There are several there. My favorite, with best explanation, is, "Easily Replace Briggs Governor Gear (V-Twin Intek Engine) with Taryl". https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wn3eanGxSEA&t=152s.

Taryl (probably not his real name) does a very good job of showing step-by-step the whole procedure, along with some additional hints/tricks/techniques of value.

Not including oil and filter, I spent less than $50 for a new governor, gasket, and drive shaft seal. That's all that is really necessary to replace is those three parts. That is, unless pieces of the old governor tore up a gear, valve, or something else. Inspect everything! {I was lucky and only the governor was destroyed}

One word of note. Be sure to clean out all of the debris from the blown governor. Be sure to remove the spark plugs and carefully rotate the drive shaft while looking for nooks-and-crannies where debris can hide. I tried to use a magnet to help, but it didn't help much, even though the block is aluminum.

Good luck.

ALL VIDEOS and the official Husqvarna instructions will tell you that you MUST remove both the mowing deck and the entire clutch pulley assembly to switch the transmission drive belt. This is NOT true. It takes some effort and tight maneuvering, but this job can be done relatively quickly without removing either. You do NOT have to remove the mowing deck! You do NOT have to remove the clutch pulley assembly! What I did was to stand the tractor up nearly vertical, resting it against a golf cart I have and tying it in place for safety. Then, you have to loosen two black belt guides right by the clutch pulley assembly. I did NOT remove them, just left them hanging loose. Next, there is a silver bar that comes in from the outside of the mower chassis and attaches directly to the clutch, remove this entirely. Next, there is an electrical cord assembly in the way, trace this back, find where it plugs in, and unplug it. Next, in order to be able to slide the belt fully over the clutch pulley assembly, you have to take the mower deck belt off of JUST THE ONE spindle closest. I tie wrapped it in place after getting it off the spindle so that I could easily put it back onto the spindle as the last step when done. Once the mowing deck belt is off the closest spindle, you can then slide the drive belt completely over the clutch pulley assembly. You can then easily remove the entire drive belt, taking note (I took pictures) of how it is routed. Then, just reverse all of this. I began by fitting the drive belt over the clutch pulley assembly to make sure that end was correct. I then put the previously mentioned two guides, silver bar, and electrical cord back in place. Next, I shoved the belt down where it goes, working it down towards the transmission and routing it correctly. Of course, it is a little difficult with the limited space available, but I would rather do that then needlessly take the entire mowing deck off. You finally have to CAREFULLY slide it over the PLASTIC fan blades on the transmission. Once past those, it slides easily in place. The last step is to put the mowing deck belt that you previously removed and tie wrapped in place back onto the spindle. That's it! Only takes about 30-45 min. done this way.

dissembled ordered repair parts, piston ,upper case, rod, camshaft, seal kit, and motor maintenance CD
The camshaft first provided did not have the compression release device on it and the cam lobe position was all wrong for the model engine I had. .
Parts Select provided me with the proper cam Shaft. Removed engine from mower (Scag Freedom Z) 15 minutes, drained oil, flipped upside down removed bottom case, removed wrong cam shaft, reinstall new valve lifters, camshaft with decompression release on it matching dots on crankshaft. Used paint brush to coat all parts heavily with motor oil.
Do not put sealant on case gasket,(it might change crankshaft end play), retorqued bolt in alternating pattern, placed nylon pipe tape on drain plug threads, and reinstalled engine on mower. It started instantly and ran extremely smooth with no oil burn or vibration.

I am very happy with the support and quick mshipping Parts Select provided..

Still not able to complete repair, unfortunately the box part was shipped in had a gaping hole in the bottom and some parts are missing. Trying to salvage from old mower deck.

Underneath the console is a 10 mm nut took it off slip the grip off and installed new console took less than 5 min very easy repair

Just described it.

Disassemble dryer. Replaced element assembly. Re assembled dryer. Unit runs and heats.

Parked mower on level concrete drive, laid on cardboard. Lowered mower deck all the way. Sparayed some WD40 on nut/bolt on top of old pulley. Since it is a carriage type bolt, placed 5/8" boxed end wrench over self locking nut on top of old pulley. Using some force from 3lb mallet to break nut free (hitting against wrench body), the nut came off easy as did broken pulley/bearing inside. Installed new pulley assembly, re-tightened nut on bolt. Checked after first mowing just to be certain pulley was in place and locking nut tight.

Shimmed the wheels out on axle.. No more slop.