911413 - Instructions

It's so simple most people could mannage the repair. Turn oven off. Remove oven door and shelves. Use a nut driver to remove mounting screws. Pliers to pull quick connect terminated wires off element terminals. Use pliers to push connectors onto new element,wires may connect to either terminal. Nut driver for screws to mechanically mount new element. Replace shelves and door. First time element gets hot it will burn off oils and dirt, not a problem but do it now not later.

1) TURNED OFF THE POWER TO THE OVEN. 2) REMOVED THE TOP DOOR AND RACKS. 3) REMOVED THE 2- 1/4 HEAD HEX NUTS AND PULLED THE ELEMENT FORWARD ENOUGH TO EXPOSE THE ELECTRICAL CLIPS TO THE ELEMENT. REMOVED THE CLIPS WITH A PAIR OF NEEDLE NOSE AS ADDED GRIP. 4) PUT THE WIRE CLIPS ON THE NEW ELEMENT AND REVERSED THE ABOVE PROCEDURES.

[1] squirted LiquidWrench on the 4 screws holding the convection fanblade rear cover in place. Used a socket and rachet to remove screws; the loosener really helped after 10+ years.

[2] the broken heating element was easy to remove. The two spade connectors however didn't have much free length;these wires wanted to retreat back into the rear oven wall.
[3] So i put a small binder clip from my desk supplies on each spade end, this left the connectors where I could grab them.
[4]I used needle-nose pliers to firmly crimp the the spade connectors onto the new heating element; couldn't have made a firm placement with fingertip pressure alone.
[5] I cleaned the oven door hinge area, oven bulb area, and other hard to reach spots with Simple Green and wipes.

I ordered the replacement clips from this site and they arrived in a timely manner. The clips were perfect, but due to the age of the oven, the holes had elongated and the new clips kept falling out also. I modified the clips by widening the tips with a pair of pliers. They are holding just fine. I don't think the older clips could've withstood the modification.

Removed burned out element and discovered replacement element had a different back plate and different hole pattern. Also, the electical connecttion from power wires to ends of element were a TOTALLY different size, both in hole size and size of material that hole was placed. This tood a lot of slow increasing the size of the hole time. Also, the backplate was a different size with a two hole pattern at the top of the plate, as oppossed to the original plate with holes centered at the sides of the plate. Had to drill holes in back oven wall higher than I wanted, as the oven wall had a depression in the back wall and I could not drill at that point. By drilling holes that were higher than previous holes, there was now a 1/2" opening at the bottom of this plate. Used a hack saw and cut off a piece of the old plate to slip underneath, then screwed in the new plate, thus filling the remaining opening, and securing the additional hand made additional plate. This was a lot more than I had bargain for, and when I turned on the oven, it did not work! I re-checked the connection of the power wires to the grid element and found one of the connections to be disconnected. Reconnected this wire and everything is just ducky now.

pulled panel-took picture of wiring with digital camera just in case-pulled old control-screwed new on in place-switched wires from old to new-put it all back together-cooked some banana bread-oven seems a little hotter than what it reads-works like new

unscrewed four screws holding part in and one by one unplugged each connector and plugged it into the new part then screwed the new part back in . i ooriginally purchased this part from ge two years ago and when it broke again i called ge. no warranty of course and the part went up over $120.00 dollars in two years. i bought this part for less than half the cost from ge and it was the exact some part . no longer dealing with ge.

took old unit and measured it part select made it easy for me ordered new unit and installed easily and quick thanks to quick service and shipping

All I had to do was pop the clamp on the top part of the heating element and push the clamp into the hole.

Removed mounting screws and element only pulled out about 2 inches. Disconnected wires and had to drill slightly bigger hole in element ends to reattach wires. Element mounting bracket was different than old element. Had to use one existing screw hole in oven back and drill a new one.

Remove the two screws holding the metal encasing to expose the controller. remove the four screws that is holding the controller in place. Discinnect the power from the controller, disconnect the other connections.. Replace the old controller with the new one, insert screws connect all wires, connect the power source..Works like a charm..

I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip disconnected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.

Removed 2 screws and removed the front panel. removed the controller and rewired. The wires were clearly marked and the controller was held in with four screws. Quick and easy.

Removed the screws that hold the end caps on. One on top, the other underneath with the door open. Then removed the two screws that hold the cover of the electronic controls and pulled out this panel. Removed the 4 screws that held the clock/oven module. Removed the wires in order with needle nose pliers and connected them to the corresponding connections on the new module. Weren't exactly identical, but with the magnifying glasses (presbyopia) was able to identify the correct label that matched the original connection....replace the screws back in order, started the oven...and cooked the kids a pizza.

Truned off the power took out the two screws holding the old element disconnect the power leads and put in the new element. Was great to recieve the new element in one day, the day before Xmas.