7WSC21C4XY00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Remove the ice bucket and check that the auger that turns in the ice bucket is free to turn. Cover the open freezer with cardboard or whatever to retain most of the freezer temperature. Remove the holder that supports the top of the motor shaft. Check the splines on the upper part of the motor shaft and also check the seal under the holder. Open the access the door to the motor, remove wiring connector and unbolt the motor. Check the lower splines on motor shaft for condition, clean the shaft and apply new grease to the splines. Before installing, connect the wiring to the new motor, push the door switch in, press the ice dispenser arm outside the door to make sure the motor runs. If all ok, check the motor shaft for fit in the new motor. Be careful not to install the motor shaft too deep in the motor splines, otherwise there may not be enough spline showing on the top end to engage the auger. Bolt the motor in place, close access door and install the holder and ice bucket and make sure everything works. If there is not enough spline showing thru the holder to engage the auger, take pliers and pull the shaft up a bit. This seems to be a hit or miss fit on the shaft but you can adjust the height of the shaft without taking every thing apart again. That's all, not difficult at all. But do check parts and pieces for anything else you might need, parts wise, before ordering the motor by itself like I did. Shipping is high, so try to order any associated parts needed when you order the motor. By the way, This site are great to work with!

I took off the broken tube and attempted to order a new one with the confusing we sight at parts.com- after 3 attempts I finally got the right part with help from the operator at parts . Com( nice and helpful) but had to ship wrong parts ( the 2 wrong ones) back. The parts were of good quality and we're not hard to put on

removed freezer shelves, removed back panel with screw driver. removed wires from fan motor, removed fan motor from mounting bracket, removed fan from motor. installed new motor in mounting bracket, installed fan on new motor,installed wiring on new motor. turned power on to check operation, installed rear panel and shelves. total time for job about a half hour

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

What took the most time was figuring out how to access the back of the pad. This is what I finally put together. First, remove the two screws(with nut driver) holding on the silver plastic cover around the water dispenser orifice and the ice dispenser chute. Next there are two or three black plastic clips that hold the electronic face in place. They are located near the front of the face on the bottom. Take a small flashlight and point it up from the bottom of the dispenser area, and look for a hole in the clear plastic with a small black catch in it. There is one on the right, one on the left, and I think one in the middle. I released these catches by pressing up in the holes with a small flathead screw driver while pulling out on the electronic face. One by one I got them free and the electronic face came away, revealing two Phillips head screws which held the dispensers trim in place. I removed the screws then pulled off the base or drip catcher part of the dispenser. It pulled straight off revealing two more Phillips head screws. After removing them I used my small flathead to work my way around the narrow trim piece disengaging the four clips on either side of the trim that locks it onto the backsplash liner piece. On the bottom I worked the trim up and down to get it to come free of the metal edges of the door and the plastic splash guard. It was kind of a hassle as its job is to lock the splash guard to the door, it hooks to both easily. Once the trim is off and the splash guard the pad is attached too is removed and in your hands its a simple matter to slide the pad up and free of the back splash. The red and blue wire has simple routing to the back of the electronic face previously removed. Disconnect the black connector at the end of the blue and red wires that lead to the pad you are removing. Install the new pad following the original routing path and reassemble dispenser face in reverse order of removal. Be patient and look around to locate the parts described, sorry I don't know their proper names so I am calling the parts names that make sense to me. I hope that helps. Best of luck.

just followed the instruction on utube

I had watched several video's on installing the plugs in the Kitchenaid model that I had, but when it came down to the install the figuration was a little different. I did figure it out and the rest was a piece of cake. Remember to shut the power off!

Removed old filter then insert new filter and pushed door closed

Opening up the Evaporator Fan section was a quick and easy job. After opening, I checked and removed the fan and looked at the grommet. The grommet on the fan was tight and secure and I could no longer hear the noise. I closed the opening. Something I had done while checking the fan grommet must have solved the problem. I have not hear the noise again!

Was very easy to take out the screw and put in the new coupler, then replace the screw. It is working great now.

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!

We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing

1) Turn off the power to the refrigerator 2) Remove the top shelf and ice maker door 3)Remove three hex screws holding the ice maker in place, 4) Unplug the electrical cables and remove the ice maker 5) Remove the plastic cover to the motor module 6) Remove three screws from the motor module and seperate from the housing 7) Remove two mounting screws for the motor module 8) Seperate the motor module from the ice tray 9) Remove and replace the plastic ice stripper and rake10) Reassemble in reverse order. Note: Be patient after re-installing the ice maker. It might take an hour or two before its cold enough to kick back on and make ice.